Trix 4X5 in hc110 1:63 question?

[bruce_appel]

Holly Tsunami! I used my Yankee 4X5 tank for the first time and what

a mess.

But, my real question is,can someone give me some starting times for

using tri X (old emulsion), in HC110 1:63? The film box said 7.5

minutes at 68 in dilution b, so I souped it 13 minutes in 1:63 and my

negatives are way too contrasty.

As expensive as 4X5 film is, I sure would love some starting

numbers that I can fine tune.

Another neophyte 4X5 question- how do you get the film out of the

holders without scratching it? I had scrathes where I had grabbed the

film to slide out of the holders. Is their a trick for this?

[William D. Lester]

I used to routinely use HC110 at 1:62. The times were generally around those that Kodak published for 1:31. That seemed to work for me as Kodak's times generally produced negatives that were too contrasty.

[michael_chini]

I can only help with the scratches. Make sure you feel for the little dip/indentation in the holder at the edge of the film. Use your fingernail or fingertip to gently lift the film up and then slide down to pull the film out from the corner with the notches. Don't use your nails when you actually pull the film out. If you lift the film too much however, it will pop out of the sides.

[alec1]

Bruce, I take a wasted sheet of film [unfortunately, I have lots of those], cut off a 2" wide strip across the 4" width, then round one end carefully [lookes like a dome from the side]. When unloading holders, I used that rounded side to raise the edge of the film so I can get a grip on it. This has worked great for me for years - no scratches.

[richard_zevnik]

I usually use HC110 at dilution B. The time you used is about what I use if I'm exposing at 800 rather than 400. Also, how much agitation did you use? I find I get better results if I only agitate about every 2.5 minutes -- three or four quick inversions of a 4 reel 35 mm tank.

[richard_zevnik]

Correction/clarification to previous answer. 13 minutes is about the time I use when using 1:63 and exposure at 800.

[j.w.]

Bruce, I've just recovered from an episode of scratched 4x5 negs, using Riteway holders in my Speed Graphic, tray developed. These are both front (emulsion) and backside (polyester base) scratches. Some simple recommendations:

 

1. Fingernail or a piece of used film under the middle edge of the film at the depression, as mentioned above. When pulling out film from holder, ensure the flap is folded back completely out of the way. Backside scratches can happen here.

 

2. Once you have ahold of the film and begin removing from holder, *gently* bend or arc the film so it slides out of the side rails without scratches, and the backside stays away from the holder (again, backside scratches).

 

3. Don't touch the emulsion side with ANYTHING except chemistry until completely dry.

 

As for processing, I tray develop in 5x7 trays, one neg at a time. I've not had luck with the 'shuffle' method of processing multiple negs without getting front-side scratches, regardless of how careful I am.

 

Negative emulsion-side up in the tray. Ensure negative is adequately immersed. Gentle rocking of tray once every 15 seconds, alternating corners. If you rock the tray too much from one side, you'll get light/dark parallel bands in the sky areas of scenics, due to wave action reinforcing agitation in zones. Agitate *very slightly* the tray using alternating corners. Don't get wild and slosh chems out of the trays.

 

No tongs for negative handling. I use my hands, gloved with vinyl beautician gloves ($5 for 100) (to avoid latex induced rash on skin).

 

Only handle negative by the edges when moving from tray to tray.

 

My 5x7 trays have ridges on the bottom, used to facilitate removing the negative. Excess agitation or pressure of the film against the tray bottom can give you back-side scratches.

 

As for development, use dilution B, at 80% of recommended time. Check your temperature, too - although I don't monitor temperature that critically; I just ensure all the chems and labware is at room temperature prior to starting.

 

I know you're using the Yankee tank, not trays. I've used my tank several years ago, and thought that the process of loading the film into the curved slots, using the sliding loading bracket fixture, was a source of scratches, and cross-slotting of film, and also double-slotting of film. An otherwise good portrait of my wife was ruined due to 2 sheets in the same slot.

 

And then there's the issue of the volume of chemistry used with tanks. I don't know how many negatives you expose in one 'shooting spree', but I only have 3 Riteway holders that I currently use. That's 6 negatives. I can tray develop all 6 in less than an hour, using much less chems, and guarantee no scratches, now that the bugs are worked out of my process flow.

 

Just my $0.02 worth.;^]

[ken_schroeder]

I think most of the scratches with tray development occur in the presoak stage. The best solution I have found is setting my Gralab timer for several minutes and allowing thirty seconds between inserting each sheet into the presoak tray. The extra bit of time and care definitely helps reduce scratching.

 

I would try the next batch at 8 minutes. If they are a little flat, it is an easy matter of printing with a slightly higher contrast grade of paper of VC filter. If 8 minutes is too little, and 13 is too much, the third batch should be quite close.