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Post Diafine/Film Combo Examples


dzeanah

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After reading posts here I thought Diafine would be a simple way to get

back into black and white photography.  I tried a few tests, it

seems to work, but I don't know what films are really worth

trying.  Contrast looks like it might be out of control on some

films; others seem to work without much difficulties.<br>

<br>

Of course, the problem could be with my scanning skill (nonexistent) or

agitation (3 slow rotations every 30 seconds).  Both of the images

with my dog in them were shot today <span style="font-style: italic;">in

the shade</span> and developed in the same batches that the other rolls

were developed in.  I don't know if it's because she's gonna be

zone xii and Diafine's got issues with that, or what, but it seems

tricky.<br>

<br>

I'll be shooting some low-light tonight, so maybe I can tell you

something more about 400TX tomorrow.<br>

<br>

Here are samples:<br>

<br>

<img

src="http://www.derekzeanah.com/albums/sample-scans/hp5_00.sized.jpg"

title="HP5+, EI 400, Diafine, 3 years between exposure and development"

alt="HP5+, EI 400, Diafine, 3 years between exposure and development"

style="width: 640px; height: 427px;"><br>

<span style="font-weight: bold;">HP5+, EI 400, Diafine, 3 years between

exposure and development<br>

<br>

<img

src="http://www.derekzeanah.com/albums/sample-scans/funeral_32.sized.jpg"

title="" alt="" style="width: 427px; height: 640px;"><br>

</span><span class="caption"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Delta

400, EI 800, Diafine, 3 years between exposure and development<br>

<br>

<img

src="http://www.derekzeanah.com/albums/sample-scans/0035_G.sized.jpg"

title="" alt="" style="width: 640px; height: 427px;"><br>

</span></span><span class="caption" style="font-weight: bold;">Tri-X,

EI 1600, Diafine</span><br>

<span class="caption"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br>

<img

src="http://www.derekzeanah.com/albums/sample-scans/tmax_00016.sized.jpg"

title="" alt="" style="width: 640px; height: 427px;"><br>

</span><span class="caption" style="font-weight: bold;">Tmax 100, EI

160, Diafine</span><br>

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Welcome to the world of Diafine :)

 

It has been my only developper for 18 months now.

 

I seen blown highlights on your scans. I ttribute them to your scanning process,

because Diafine is especially good on limiting highlights blocking.

 

For general purpose, I am happy enough with Agfa APX 100 @ IE 200 to recommend

it to you. If you want grainless images, give Fuji Acros a try. I expose it @ 100,

althoug it worth trying at 125 and 160, it will depend on your tastes.

 

Have fun.

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First, I'd suggest studying all the previous threads discussing Diafine. Lots of valid info there from experienced users.

 

Second, keep in mind that not all films are especially compatible with Diafine. My tests with TMX were disappointing and TMY wasn't much better. I get far better results from TMX in ID-11 or even Rodinal; and I prefer TMY @ EI 1000-1600 in straight Microphen.

 

The manufacturer recommends an EI of 400, not 800, for Delta 400 when it's to be developed in Diafine. While the example you posted has acceptable midtones the apparently blown highlights are typical of what I see with Diafine when used on newer emulsion films, which includes any T-Max film. The one exception to this would be Delta 3200. I've gotten excellent results using Diafine for Delta 3200 @ EI 1600.

 

According to longtime users Diafine works best with old-style emulsions. My own tests bear this out. I've gotten excellent results with Tri-X and FP4+ (@ EI 250). Delta 3200 and Pan F+ (@ EI 50, not the manufacturer's recommended EI 80) turned out surprisingly well. T-Max 100 and 400 were disappointing. I plan to try it soon on Efke and Agfa films.

 

I'd strongly suggest using one film at a time and using a methodical approach to determining the best EI for that film in Diafine. The easiest way to do this is to simply bracket your exposures. Since Diafine is a fixed process developer and can't be influenced by shortening or prolonging times, simply bracket in half, full or even third stops for certain films. Using that method I found the best EI for Tri-X was around 1200-1250, not 1600 as the manufacturer suggests.

 

The trick to using Diafine is to keep in mind that it's for convenience in the darkoom. It's not to ensure bulletproof negatives exposed under any and all conditions. And like anything else, lots of practice is needed to determine what works best.

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My experience with Diafine (actually homemade formula) is limited to TX @1200, HP5+ (expired) @800 and TMX @160.

 

TMX - I really did not like the results - clearly washed out whites. A pain to print.

 

HP5+ - Fairly decent results.

 

TX - Very good for artificial light (interior) pictures.

 

See (scan quality is very poor):

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005ae4

 

I would not use it as a general oudoor developer - well, HP5+ maybe, but since Ilford is much more expensive where I live I only use Kodak films.

 

Lex likes FP4+ in it, I've seen bad comments regarding PX.

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Thanks. I've been shooting XP2 for B&W of late, because there's no way I'm going to be able to get the water temps down here in Florida to get anywhere close to the 68-75 degrees they'd need to be for normal film development. Managing temperature and using an ice bath is simply so much work that I've been shooting XP2 at a cost of $8 per roll, as opposed to the $2 per roll bulk-loaded HP5+ would cost if I developed it at home.

 

The HP5+ and EI 800 Delta 400 test rolls were taken from my "I don't know what the hell this is, but I should develop it some day" box. Both ended up being about 3 years old...

 

Scans could be the problem -- I'm using a scanner designed for minilab use and haven't come close to mastering it yet (it kicks butt for fast scans of an entire roll, but could offer a few more features for individual neg scanning). Just looked at the HP5+ negs and they're fairly smooth overall; the 400TX looks a little muddy, though that could be subjsct matter.

 

I'll fiddle around and let you know if it gets any better. I'll also order some FP4+, Pan F, Acros and APX 100 to play with. For now, I think I'll shoot HP5+ as a GP film, with 400TX for low-light.

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Another tip, Derek: Don't judge your negs in Diafine by scanning standards. Tri-X in Diafine doesn't scan particularly well - scans tend to be rather flat. But they print beautifully using conventional techniques.

 

The scanner-friendliest films I've used routinely are TMX and TMY, but only in developers other than Diafine.

 

Heat is a problem here in Texas too - my darkroom seldom gets below 80°F during the day. I've learned to adjust my developing times to suit rather than trying to control the chemistry temperatures. Normally I'll use developers that are either slow acting or can be used in dilutions to extend development even when warm.

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So far my best experience with Diafine has been when using it with Tri-X. Lex likes FP4+ and I think I'm going to give that a try this weekend if the weather up here in NYC clears a bit. My Diafine and Plus-X experiments were a disaster. Far too much contrast, blown highlights, and very dense negatives at EI 400.
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Follow-up: shot some HP5+ and Tri-X @ EI 1600 last night, and thought to look at the developing directions again as I was 1 minute into Part B. It turns out it's a gentle 5 seconds of agitation every <i>minute</i>, not every <i>30 seconds</i>. Looks like bad agitation will screw you quickly with this otherwise insensitive developer.<p>

 

From last night (<b>Tri-X at 1600</b>):<p>

 

<img src=http://www.derekzeanah.com/albums/Susan/bday00048.sized.jpg>

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  • 1 year later...

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