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Stuck on the Fence... Agfa/Ilford/Kodak Deathmatch


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I've narrowed down my developer to Rodinal, with D-76 as a finer-

grained backup. Now, I've just got to select one or two films to

become familiar with (i.e. buying a 100' roll).

 

I've tried Tri-X and HP5+ in Rodinal, and it seems to me like Tri-X

gave me the better tones, although my testing has not been extensive

enough to determine if this was simply due to subject matter. I have

not tried APX400, but some people on a photographic mailing list I

subscribe to swear by it!

 

Now, I need your opinions, dudes and dudettes. Knowing that I like

grain, shoot in 35mm and develop with Rodinal, what would you

suggest? Does anyone have any experiences they would like to share

using any of these combinations? I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Thanks very much!

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Tri-X with Rodinal at 1:50 is pretty nice, and in my opinion delivers every scrap of tonality from this film. Tri-X pro I think delivers a bit better acutance over the standard version, but it tends to slow down in Rodinal to about EI 250.

 

I much prefer the Ilford films to be processed in D76, HC110, or other similiar developers. At which conclusion Tri-X/Rodinal and HP5/D76 both have their advantages and particular 'look' with neither being better than the other. You have a choice of the 'gritty edge' and enhanced texture of Tri-X in Rodinal, or the more 'laid back' and glowing midtone attitude of HP5/D76.

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Agfa APX 100 works really well with Rodinal. Try this: Agfa 100 in Rodinal 1:50 for 13 mins at 20 degrees C. Or if that is too long try it in Rodinal 1:25 for 8 mins. I prefer Tri X rated at 200 in D76. I don't use Tri X in Rodinal as I don't like the appearance of the grain greater than a 5x7 enlargement. Apparently, I've been told, although not yet tried, that Fuji Acros 100 rated at 50 works beautifully with Rodinal 1:50 dev around 11 mins 20 degrees C. If you try this, let me know how you go.
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I'm partial to Tri-X. Sure, other films can do certain things a little better but I don't know of any comparable film that has the flexibility of Tri-X. HP5+ may have a little better capability for shadow detail, tonality and other niceties; TMY may push a bit better; etc.

 

If you buy a bulk roll and get tired of Rodinal all it takes to get a completely different look is to try another developer and exposure index. There aren't many films capable of delivering acceptable results from EI 100-1600 depending on the effect you're after.

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I can't tell you anything about Agfa B&W films since I can't remember if I've ever used them. I have shot lots and lots of HP5+ and Tri-X and for me the hands down winner is Tri-X. Develop it in Rodinal at 1+50 or ID-11/D-76 at 1+1 and you'll love it. HP5+ is nice, but a little less forgiving of exposure and development errors. Try one roll of each in these two developers and see which ones you like best. just be sure to make all the exposures of the same subjects in the same light so you'll have a valid basis for comparison. Shooting randomly will tell you nothing. Controlled variables are necessary for any sort of testing or else you'll have invalid data.
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Something to consider when choosing your film/dev combination

is what paper you intend to print on. I find that hp5 plus rated @

200 processed in ID- 11 1:1 perfectly matches the curves of ilford

multigrade fb paper. Hp5 plus hasn't much of a shoulder but the

ilford paper does and this seems to help balance the qualities of

the film. I do not, however, like to print Hp5+ negs on Agfa

multicontrast fb because it seems to render the tones with less

subtlety. I believe that this is because the paper has less

shoulder and makes highlights harder to print. OTOH tri-x looks

much better to me on the agfa paper because Tri-x has more of

a shoulder which suits the greater highlight contrast that agfa

paper provides.

 

just my 2 cents worth.

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