T-Max reversal kit formula

[classcamera]

Hello All,<P>

 

I have been interested in doing some b/w positive work for some time,

however I cannot bring myself to pay the 50 dollars for the kodak

kit. So, I was wondering if any of you chemistry nerds (like myself)

would have the formula for the T-Max kit. If I can't get the T-Max

kit formula, I would be happy to settle for a good formula for re-

exposure b/w positives. <P>

 

Thanks a bunch,<P>

Mark

[frank.schifano]

Follow this link to Ilford's website and download this pdf file. The document describes a reversal process which calls for one of Ilford's off the shelf paper developers and a few other chemicals You can substitute Kodak's Dektol for Ilford's Bromophen or PQ Universal. Should be a lot cheaper than the Kodak kit.

 

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/reversalproc.pdf

[andy_piper2]

http://lavender.fortunecity.com/lavender/569/negtoposdeveloper.html

 

Note that this is a formula for motion picture films - but silver film is silver film.

 

I believe the TMax kit bleach uses potassium permanganate instead of dichromate. Other than that I haven't a clue as to formulas.

 

The Kodak kit softens the film emulsion extremely during processing - to the point where it'll rub off on your fingertips. So handle the film extra-carefully while wet, regardless of which formulas you finally use, just to be safe.

[andy_piper2]

Hmmm...clarifications:

 

"I believe the TMax kit bleach uses potassium permanganate instead of dichromate."

 

Well, at least the TMax bleach is purple while dichromate solutions are usually dark red-orange. Seems like I saw permanganate on the Kodak ingredients safety list as well, but it's been a couple of years.

 

"The Kodak kit softens the film emulsion extremely during processing..."

 

Having read the ingredients explains this - they include sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid - i.e., Drano� and battery acid. No wonder the poor film gets squishy.

[barry_books]

The process above will work fine. I've used it on Tmax 100 as well as movie film.

Tmax is nice because the base is pretty clear. I've also just used Tmax developer or

Rodial for both developer steps. The only stuff that's tricky to find is the bleach but

the usual Internet photo chemical suppliers have all the stuff.

<P>

The process is pretty easy, the only critical thing is the first development. I would

wear gloves and don't drink the bleach but other than that is just about like

developing negatives. If you already have a favortite developer I'd just try it and see

how it works.

[classcamera]

Thanks for the fine responces,

 

<P>

I will give the Illford system a try.

 

<P>

Mark

[aaron_rocky]

http://www.frii.com/~jkbl/reversal/kodak.html