Development procedure question

[peter_kim2]

I had a question about agitating film. I have a Patterson 2 reel

tank. When I develop I have always agitated for 30 seconds after I

pour in the developer (I use D-76) and then agitate for 5 seconds (2

to 3 inversions) every minute. But a friend of mine says he agitates

for a full minute after he puts in the developer then agitates 5

seconds every 30 seconds. This seems like a lot of agitation to me.

Have I been doing this wrong the whole time? I know there is no such

thing as standard development for everyone. But which is closer to

conventional developing? Im confused.

 

I also had a question about 120 film. I always presoak my film

before development but I noticed (at least using HP5) that when I

dump out the water before I put in the developer that the water is

very colored. Its a blackish-grey. Is this normal?

 

Thanks!

[joey]

Hi Peter,<br>

Agitation changes depending on the situation. For a contrasty scene, less agitation would be in order. However, for a flat scene, more agitation can really help the contrast. I usually agitate for the first thiry seconds, then four inversions every thirty seconds for the rest of the time.<br><br>

 

The colored water sounds normal to me--I believe it's the anti-halation backing. T-Max will turn the water purple. This is likely the effect you're seeing, but just to check, are you loading the paper on to the reel as well? This could account for grayish runoff.

[m0002a]

Joey is correct about the anti-halation dye coming out with the pre-rinse.

 

The purpose of agitation is to ensure �even� development in your negatives. Usually, the less agitation you use, the less contrast and grain you will get, and the gradation will be better. So if you are getting even development with the agitation method you now use, stick with it.

 

The same general principle applies to development times--use the time that works best for you, even if it varies from manufacturer published times.

[conrad_hoffman]

Though I've no data to prove it, it seems people are using less agitation than they used to. My negative quality went up when I backed off the initial agitation time and went from every 30 seconds to a minute. Your scheme is close to what I do and should give easier to print negs with better control of the highlights.

[chris_waller]

I pre-soak and yes, the a/h dye washes off. I give four inversions in the first 30 seconds after pouring in the dev then one inversion every 30 seconds after that. What you do in absolute terms is not as important as precision. Whatever you do, do it exactly the same every time.

[larry_lambert1]

Only that which gives the best results for your particular developmant style. Try your buddy's style out on a non-critical roll of film, and see if you like the results better than your own. To me that's the real fun of B+w, one film can emulate so many different looks. Only thing is take good notes, so that whatever you do is repeatable.