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What can make my prints more brilliant and add clarity


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Hello,

What can make my prints more brilliant and add clarity to them?

I'm looking for techniques that would add extra white, but also ways of darkening the black tones. So adding overall contrast. This in post production, after the print has been developed.

The reason for this is that although I get reasonably good prints, they all still look a bit too greyish. 

I think a way to do so is to use bleacher. But please come up with other, better ideas.

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The best way to do this is in the initial process--expose your film correctly and develop it to the contrast level that you need to make the prints that you want.  In the printing stage you can control contrast by choosing the grade of paper or printing filter (lower numbers like 0 or 1 have low contrast and higher numbers like 3, 4 and 5 are higher contrast) and by choosing developers that tend to increase contrast.  Trying to alter flat prints after they are made is not the best answer to your problem. Bleaching prints is likely to lead to staining later, and I'm not aware of any way to intensify blacks other than some toning processes such as selenium, which will intensify blacks a bit.

I have taught beginning film photography classes at a community college for over 20 years.  The most common cause of flat, grayed out prints is underexposed and/or undeveloped negatives, with underexposure being the most common culprit.  A useful test for development is to look at the frame numbers when your film is developed.  If they are black or almost black then your development is probably fairly close if not perfect.  If those numbers are pale, then your developing time needs to increase or your developer is too old and not working properly.  Also, old paper will frequently lose contrast so make sure you are printing with fresh paper.  Old print developers can also give low contrast. One more thing--when you are evaluating test prints, be aware that photo paper "dries down"--prints will look brighter while they are wet so they need a little less exposure for the final print, with the papers that I use usually around 5% or so less than a test. A good digital timer will help to make this easy to do.

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Try selenium toner. It  attaches to low values  and increases both contrast and density in dark tones, i.e. enhances a prints tonal range. Remove the print from the toner  and wash as soon as you start to see a color change. It will continue to darken and change color even after being removed. Too long in the toner and the blacks  become purple in color. Toning also increases the archival property of the print.

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James G. Dainis
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10 hours ago, James G. Dainis said:

Try selenium toner. It  attaches to low values  and increases both contrast and density in dark tones, i.e. enhances a prints tonal range. Remove the print from the toner  and wash as soon as you start to see a color change. It will continue to darken and change color even after being removed. Too long in the toner and the blacks  become purple in color. Toning also increases the archival property of the print.

If you do try selenium toning, be sure to do it where you have good ventilation and wear gloves to keep from absorbing  the toner into your skin. Note that you don't need to do this under a safelight.

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I avoided all possibilities of lack of contrast by curtaining off of enlarger area and painting surface of easel.  The most optimal way is exposing through a new or fog free lens.  My experience after purchasing a mint fog-free Rodenstock Sironar lens simply blew me away.  I hardly ever use contrasting filters anymore!

Also, avoid warmer developer baths. If you have darkroom space, wash the print between baths.  Wash well, bathe the print in clearing agent, bathe again or allow print to soak overnight.

 

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