Durst m605 color extension arm for larger prints

[jeppe_bent]

Hi there. Does anyone know why jollingers guide states that its possible to do 60x50 printswith this extension arm insteat of 50x40 without when the baseboard us only 50 x50 aprox. I dint get it. Look at jollingers durst m605 guide..theres is a tabel when scrolling down showing enlargements with or without extension arm. Im shooting 6x6 btw

 

[rodeo_joe1]

An enlarging masking-frame, or easel, can overhang the baseboard by quite a few centimetres without over-balancing.

 

However, the main limit to the size of print you can get on a baseboard is the distance between lens axis and column. So presumably the extension arm moves the head away from the original column mounting.

 

The way to get really large prints is to swing the head through 90 degrees and project the negative on a vertical board or wall.

 

You can also get wide-angle enlarging lenses of 60mm focal length that allow a 25% or so increase in magnification against a 'standard' 80mm lens. With no extra column height needed. Schneider, Rodenstock and Hoya used to make such lenses.

Edited August 23, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

[Alan Marcus]

rodeo-joe is spot on -- you can buy a small 1st. surface mirror (silvering on surface of glass).and mount it at a 45 degree angle just below the lens. This lash-up allows you to direct the projected image on a wall. You can fasten photo paper vertical on the wall. In a photo lab, enlargers were mounted without base board on a work bench. The paper ease with placed on this bench under the enlarger. We built a trap-door in the bench. When we needed expanded projection distance we opened the trap-door and projected on the floor under the bench. -- lots of ways to skin a cat.

[AJG]

I had a Durst M 600 a long time ago that had 2 positions for where the head attached to the column. With the lower position the enlarger was much more rigid; with the upper position it could make larger prints. I'm not familiar with the M 605 but it may have a similar arrangement.

[glen_h]

As well as I know, the traditional way was to rotate so it could shine on the floor, below the table.

 

There have also been stories about making wall sized prints, with paper from a roll,

exposing on the wall, taking it off for developing, then putting it back on the wall.

 

One what I remember used the trays for pre-pasted wallpaper (long and narrow)

to put the chemicals in.

 

When I got the enlarger that I now use (free) it came without the baseboard.

I screwed it down to the place where it is supposed to go. (Built by the previous

house owner, in a very small darkroom.)

[rodeo_joe1]

As well as I know, the traditional way was to rotate so it could shine on the floor, below the table.

That only works with enlargers that have a round column. Otherwise you have to unbolt the column and re-attach it! There's also the issue of counterbalancing the head and having enough clearance under the bench for the image to project.

 

If you get a decent sized and well-designed enlarger to begin with, those become seldom-needed measures.

 

I've also worked with enlargers mounted on an open metal frame. The 'baseboard' could then be moved to a lower shelf to get larger prints.

[glen_h]

I forget now where I learned about it, but I suspect from my father, even though we never did it.

 

Yes put something heavy on the baseboard when you do it.

 

The one I have now is the B22-XL (which I didn't know at the time) which has a taller than normal column.

 

Biggest I have made is 11x14.

 

When I was young, with an enlarger with a round post, I never got bigger than 8x10.