BeBu Lamar Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 When I use a bellow for close up, I can change the plane of focus in 3 ways. Which is the best way. 1. Move the lens. 2. Move the camera. 3. Move both lens and camera together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 I would use a macro rail and do #3. Remember that you will see SERIOUS changes in the field of view when moving either the camera or lens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck909 Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 #3 for sure. Remember that depth of field and depth of focus switch their relationship once you go beyond 1:1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeBu Lamar Posted December 5, 2019 Author Share Posted December 5, 2019 Using a bellow I have the options of doing any of the 3 ways. Although with the bellow I can go beyond 1:1 I don't really have need for that. And thanks I think I would do #3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddler4 Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Do you mean changing it in order to create a series of images you can stack? Or just to achieve focus for a single image? If you are just trying to achieve focus for a single image, #3 is fine. If you want to create a stack of images for focus stacking, #3 is a bad choice because it changes the location of the entrance pupil. If you are going to stack at the level of magnification you are talking about, then you don't want to move the entrance pupil. You can fix the lens and move the body. However, the simplest thing is to bother with a bellows at all, assuming you have a macro lens. Use the rail (#3 style) to help you achieve the framing you want while focusing on the nearest point of the object. Then leave the rail alone and simply rotate the lens barrel slightly before each additional shot. You can also get software (Helicon Remote, and I think others) that will automate this: once you figure out how large the rotations will be, you just set the near and far points and let it chug along. I do it manually instead. If you want to see a video that more clearly explains this, see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeBu Lamar Posted December 6, 2019 Author Share Posted December 6, 2019 Do you mean changing it in order to create a series of images you can stack? Or just to achieve focus for a single image? If you are just trying to achieve focus for a single image, #3 is fine. If you want to create a stack of images for focus stacking, #3 is a bad choice because it changes the location of the entrance pupil. If you are going to stack at the level of magnification you are talking about, then you don't want to move the entrance pupil. You can fix the lens and move the body. However, the simplest thing is to bother with a bellows at all, assuming you have a macro lens. Use the rail (#3 style) to help you achieve the framing you want while focusing on the nearest point of the object. Then leave the rail alone and simply rotate the lens barrel slightly before each additional shot. You can also get software (Helicon Remote, and I think others) that will automate this: once you figure out how large the rotations will be, you just set the near and far points and let it chug along. I do it manually instead. If you want to see a video that more clearly explains this, see Using a macro lens and turn the focusing ring wouldn't that the same as moving the lens which moves the entrance pupil? However, with modern marco lenses which have internal focusing I am not sure what to expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 With a unit-focussing (i.e. non-IF lens) there's going to be a shift of scale whichever method you choose. However, at close to 1:1, moving the camera results in a lesser scale change than moving the lens. Whereas a focus-slide keeps the scale constant at the focus plane, but the shift in subject-lens distance still results in a change of perspective and absolute magnification that needs compensating for in the stacking software. Basically, without altering the lens focal length, there's always going to be a scale change with any change in focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now