jonathan_davies95 Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 I have to following problem: I recently bought a Pentax 67 and an RZ67 and can't for the life of me make properly levelled pictures with either. Using a bubble level in the cold shoe of the Pentax's wooden grip doesn't seem give me proper levelling, and the same goes for the hot shoe on the side of the RZ. I bought a three-way tripod head with bubble levels on it, but it doesn't seem to be accurate either (and trust me, I tested it PROPERLY). So what's your solution for levelling these classic cameras? And please don't tell me you're fixing the levelling problems in post, because my goal is do it properly "in camera". :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 If it were me, I'd pick up an inexpensive 2 or 3 way bubble level from the hardware store and cross check what you have for camera and on tripod. I have an old laser level that works beautifully, but they're on the pricey side. Edit: have to laugh - the laser level is from the company which is now Surefire! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 What are you aiming the camera at? And are you sure the subject is level? The only subject you can be certain to be flat and level is the horizon at sea. Anything else may be going up or downhill and not align parallel with the frame edges. If you're panning the tripod head, you also need to level the legs. Otherwise the head may tilt or yaw as you rotate it. Levelling the head alone is not sufficient for a pan to stay level as it's rotated. There was a thread on this exact same issue a few weeks back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_droluk Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Was having the same problem that ultimately turned out to be a inaccurate 3-way bubble level from China. Wound up buying a 12 pack of them on the auction site, from which 5 were accurate... the remaining 7 were all inaccurate to varying degrees. Used to be you could buy these from quality equipment makers (Toyo, Mamiya, Horseman etc,) for $20-$30 and count on them being accurate, but that's no longer the case. Consumers opted for low cost ($2-$3) over quality... the better manufacturers couldn't compete and stopped making them, so now all we're left with is low cost junk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Parsons Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Managed to pick up a second-hand Linhof 3-way bubble level last year - good enough for my purposes. Did once see someone with a bubble level hot shoe cover once, taking great pains to check the camera was level - then raising it to his eye to take the pic. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 I carry a little Starrett bubble level, about 3" long and the diameter of a pencil. I trust its accuracy over any molded three-way level that fits in the flash shoe. I have machinist's levels, but they're too sensitive to level a camera. Circular levels are only as good as the precision with which they're mounted. The levels in my RRS gear are consistent with my Starrett level (and the horizon), but those in my video heads aren't even close. The three-way electronic level in the viewfinder of my Sony cameras is also very accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 I have a Hasselblad-brand Bullseye level on the side of my 500C. It snaps smartly onto the accessory mount on the side of the camera, and I tend to trust its accuracy both handheld and on a tripod. With that said, with most any camera I still find myself preferring sighting a grid line against the horizon or a building to using a level. The for me with grid lines is I can make sure that the things I want to APPEAR level(or at least along a line). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 get your image visually level on the gg or vf, then crop it later when printing to perfection. The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilmarco Imaging Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Bubble levels are not as accurate as the other levels mentioned, for example a three bubble level. I use an inexpensive 3 bubble “torpedo” level and also use the grid lines and frame edges in the viewfinder or ground glass. I shoot 35mm, 6x7 and 4x5 using the above approach. PP fixes anything overlooked at time of exposure. Wilmarco Imaging Wilmarco Imaging, on Flickr wilmarcoimaging on Instagram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 (edited) Yes, camera-mounted bubble levels can be a little hard to use, but if you're also having trouble with the ones on a tripod, then I suspect that there is something in your procedure that is in the way, not the levels themselves. For most purposes, you need only control roll, not yaw, remember Here is a level that mounts into the shoe on the camera. i got it because it is so pretty, -- awwk, shiny object.... I have never actually used it however, back in film days I used a simple bubble "line level"* from the local hardware store when roll level was important. * Edited December 17, 2018 by JDMvW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 FWIW, the circular levels on my Manfrotto tripods have all leaked and become useless. I couldn't find replacements the right diameter so I simply carefully levelled the tripod legs and stuck a new bubble to a spare spot on the tripod table using epoxy putty. The putty takes a few hours to cure, so it gives plenty of time to tease the bubble-level into accurate position. You could even cement a replacement bubble over an inaccurate existing one. As a side note: It's not unknown for a camera viewfinder to be out of true with the frame. Older cameras often had a black mask around the GG or inside the direct-vision finder, which could skew slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 It's not unknown for a camera viewfinder to be out of true with the frame. Here's a Soviet Zenit S finder off level -- I think this was what Stalin called a "right deviation". :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 circular levels on my Manfrotto tripods have all leaked and become useless Perhaps you used them too much and too hard?;) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 (edited) Perhaps you used them too much and too hard?;) - Yes. I've definitely worn the bubbles out, and the hardware shop was fresh out of new ones. It's not Blu-tak, it's epoxy putty - honest! Edited December 18, 2018 by rodeo_joe|1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Bubble levels Link https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=bubble+levels&ksubmit=y Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 take your pick.... https://www.amazon.com/bullseye-level/s?page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abullseye%20level . The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisbrown Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 FWIW, the circular levels on my Manfrotto tripods have all leaked and become useless. I couldn't find replacements the right diameter so I simply carefully levelled the tripod legs and stuck a new bubble to a spare spot on the tripod table using epoxy putty. The putty takes a few hours to cure, so it gives plenty of time to tease the bubble-level into accurate position. You could even cement a replacement bubble over an inaccurate existing one. As a side note: It's not unknown for a camera viewfinder to be out of true with the frame. Older cameras often had a black mask around the GG or inside the direct-vision finder, which could skew slightly. Manfrotto and Gitzo parts can be found at a couple of dedicated parts web sites. I found a Bogen 3035 with a dried level, and ordered a replacement from them. I had to dig out the old one, since they're friction-fitted. The new one fit perfectly, and self-levels when you tap it into the opening. The bubble level is common throughout several different models. The part number is "B4". Home of old stability | BogenTripodParts.com Gitzo Spares and Parts | Gitzo Spares Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 I had to dig out the old one, since they're friction-fitted. - That's exactly the reason I just cemented a new one over the top. I could see that the only way to remove the old one was to knock it out, and to replace it would require pressing a new one back in; possibly cracking it in the process and being back to square one in a few months time. Plus with no guarantee of the replacement one seating square. This is the 2nd dried up Manfrotto bubble-level I've had. So I think my solution is better.... and besides I already had a suitable level just lying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 This is how the part is described on 'manfrottospares.com' website: R3,2760. Ass Bubble Snigger! :p 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin McAmera Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 A couple of my old cameras don't seem to hold the film straight, so the images are all a degree or so out of true with the film strip. These are 35mm cameras though; I think the problem may be to do with changes in the dimension of the 35mm cassette. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanKlein Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 I never could get bubble to get me level. I use my eye which is more consistent thn a bubble. . I shoot an RB67 along with digitals. If I have something like a building, I'll use it to verify. But you should practice and trust your eyes. What do you rely on when you're shooting without a tripod? Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/albums Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Your answers, my friends, are blowin' in the wind. The OP apparently hasn't checked back since posting this thread. Why would you do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 at least everyone contributed for future reference. that sux when the op drops dead. at least say thanks? The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 This is how the part is described on 'manfrottospares.com' website: R3,2760. Ass Bubble Snigger! :p hahahahahahaha The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanKlein Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Your answers, my friends, are blowin' in the wind. The OP apparently hasn't checked back since posting this thread. Why would you do that? He's out practicing with his bubbles. Give him a chance to get back.:) Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/albums Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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