Vincent Peri Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 I accidentally shot a roll of Ektar 100 color film through a medium yellow filter thinking it was T-Max 100 B&W film. I'm hoping that the extra yellow can be filtered out when the negatives are processed by a color lab. Any chance of that working? Hmm... what a bonehead... http://bayouline.com/o2.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 I've never done exactly that, but I expect that the results will be a fair bit less than satisfactory. The Y series filters(Y2, Y3, etc) are cut-off filters, meaning that they DO NOT pass light shorter than a certain wavelength. Of course, no filter is perfect, but these are old and well established filter types. Even the cheap brand ones I've tested have basically no transmission in the blue region of the spectrum. That means that you won't have any spectral information recorded in that region and you really can't get it back. So, I'm afraid that you might find that your prints have a yellow cast that you can't satisfactorily correct for. Scanning might be able to adjust it somewhat, but it can't add back what's not there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Peri Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 Oh well, it was only one roll of film. Coulda been worse... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 I'd work with it just to see how much correction I could get. If not satisfactory you could always convert to black & white. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_eaton5 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Or have the lab add some cheezy light flares and lower the contrast and just say you were playing with a new instagram effect :) The B&W option gets a high five from me. You cant balance notch filters with print film like you can color temp differences. Then again anything is possible with photoshop and plenty of coffee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 The B&W option gets a high five from me. That is true. If you click "desaturate" on the color scan it should give more or less the same effect as if you'd shot B&W film with the filter in place. That saves having to go into the channel mixer to add in filter effects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Peri Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 I already tossed the film. And since I don't digitize my photos, those options are out automatically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 C'est la vie, say the old folks...;) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_eaton5 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 The vast majority of remaining labs that print film scan it first; Fuji Frontier, etc. So, the odds are it gets digitized, and all Frontier type machines can do grey scale at the push of a button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikheilrokva Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 I'd toss a rangefinder camera as well, such mistakes never happen while using SLR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 I'd toss a rangefinder camera as well, such mistakes never happen while using SLR Feel free to toss your rangefinder camera my way:cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 I'd toss a rangefinder camera as well, such mistakes never happen while using SLR No more or less likely with a rangefinder than an SLR - all my film Nikons and Leica M 3 have external film type / speed indicators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Peri Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 No more or less likely with a rangefinder than an SLR - all my film Nikons and Leica M 3 have external film type / speed indicators. I was using a Nikon F3HP with a data back, which doesn't have a film memo holder like the regular backs have. That's why I thought I was using T-Max 100 ISO film. By the way, I have never used a rangefinder camera EVER to take photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikheilrokva Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Feel free to toss your rangefinder camera my way:cool: I'm very sorry, but can't throw my Contax II in any direction, it's a gift from my dad. I'd gladly do if it weren't though :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 (edited) Looking around my cameras on display in the room where I'm sitting, I see quite a few SLRs that lack both a "peephole"(35mm) or memo holder. At the moment, I'm looking at a couple of Nikon Fs and a Canonflex RM. At least on the Fs, there's a small manually-set reminder dial on the bottom. I also use a "12" back on my Hasselblad, and all it has is a manually set dial. I think my F4 data back omits the "peephole" also. When I shoot LF, I cut small self-adhesive labels where I write the film type, date loaded, and expiration date for each film holder. Any "new" film holders I have are new old stock, and I have quite a few that have a previous owner's notes. If one were so inclined, one could do similar with any other camera. It's necessary with LF, though, unless you want to open up the film holder and try to "read" the notch code with your fingers. Edited May 1, 2018 by ben_hutcherson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Bryant Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 I made the yellow filter mistake when I was using Velvia in my Hasselbald. Caught it after a frame or two so it was not the whole roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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