RyanDunn Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 I tried messaging the seller 5 days ago for more details about the head, seeing they have the paperwork included, but I have not heard back! I'll send another message, maybe I'll get a response this time***knock on wood***. The plan is if I can get it at a good price I'll retro-fit one of my enlargers, cutting off the head right above the filter drawer. Paul Ron showed me how he had modified one of his 23c enlarger's to fit a cold head designed for a 4x5 type enlarger. From the picture on ebay, it appears the cold light is in the Omega housing. It should lift out; ask the seller if it separates or is a permanently sealed unit. Regarding the housing, were certain models of those head's made specifically for certain enlarger's, where the housing collar was manufactured permanently to the head? Thank you for those details! Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 my zone light has a collar to fit the 45m series. it makes it 1\2" more in diam. the arista is straight sides and fits nicely in the 45m. but for that mod on your 23, it doesn't matter. its just a hole you gotta fill with light. my light just sits on top of the mod. the mods hole is just shy of the lights diam. The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJG Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Models were made for specific enlargers--with the Omega enlargers, you simply removed the condensers and dropped in the cold light head in their place. I am less familiar with Beseler enlargers, but I do remember that the 4x5 head that fit 4x5 Omegas required the collar to mount on a 4x5 Beseler. It wasn't permanently attached, but was sold separately by Zone VI. If this seller is uncooperative, I would wait for one who is. You might even find a cold light head that will fit your current enlarger without modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanDunn Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 Thanks you guys! You have given me a lot of fantastic advice & a new perspective on a topic I've read about but never contemplated pursuing. I thought it was a little curious why I didn't get a response. Usually I've received quick response's. It clearly states "new in box," but still, Ebay purchases can be a gamble. So I'll see, if the price is right I might go for it. If not I'll keep an eye out for one here & Apug as well. My heat absorbing glass is arriving in a couple days, which will help out immensely. Patience is a virtue.... still working on that one. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_eaton5 Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 To check the alignment of a 23c running 35mm use a razor blade Put the razor blade in your neg carrier and observe it's sharpness wide open. Then flip it 90 degrees or rotate your carrier. The blade should be sharp symmetrically and not sharper closer to an end. 23cs can get out of alignment easily and the razor blade trick gives you a target that's solid. Get a piece of 1/8 milk plexi and mount it above the neg stage. This gives you the same physics as a cold light or dichro with a $5 piece of plastic. It will also eat heat. Instructor who taught me this trick learned it from either Adams or Sexton given he worked with both. 35mm negs that don't hold flat can be fixed with a glass carrier, or letting them sit in a sleeve under a flat weight for a few weeks. While I always wanted to print my negs fast after they dried they are much easier to handle when sleeved in tight contact pages for awhile. If I still had my 23c I'd retrofit it to LED immediately. No more heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_mareno1 Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 (edited) I recently was given a Beseler 23 C enlarger, and a Negatrans came w/ it. First one I've seen. I am absolutely sure that thing will hold the neg flat, but probably won't use it because it introduces 4 additional surfaces to catch dust. This is pretty late in the game and may be a dumb question, but are you sure your negs are sharp in the corners in the first place? Most of mine aren't. I generally used good to excellent lenses on my cameras, but seldom shot w/ the aperture way stopped down, so don't expect things to be tack sharp w/ large prints at the very edges. The only negs I have that are sharp at the edges came from a Rolleiflex w/ a Planar lens. That thing had amazing sharpness all across the frame. Some people look for that, not me, so it has never been an issue. My experience is that if an enlarging lens is stopped down to f8 or f11, then a small misalignment is going to be moot and covered by DOF. Edited April 23, 2018 by steve_mareno|1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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