Vest Pocket Kodak Autograph Special

[ray_armstrong]

<p>I have purchased a couple of rolls of Rerapan 100 ASA 127 film to try in my VPK. The film has a backing paper but not sure if there is any carbon tissue between the film and the backing paper as there was in the original 127 film for this camera. Does anyone know if the autographic feature can be used with this Rerapan film? I would hate to have a try and ruin an expensive roll of film.<br>

Also, I have read on the net that when using this film it is advisable to tape over the red window on the back of the camera when not winding the film. Does anyone have any experience of this? If this is right then presumably it is also not advisable to try to open the flap and use the autographic feature.<br>

I own an example of a WW1 photo taken where the autographic feature was used and would love to take a modern day photo with my VPK and use that feature so that the images can be compared in an article I am writing for the magazine of The Machine Gun Corps Old Comrades Association. But is it possible?</p>

[james_elwing]

<p>Gee I really doubt it would have this feature. I used a 120 film autographic and no autographic film was available back in the 1960s, had to use ordinary 120 film. I never had to cover up the red window, however, so it depends on the density of the backing paper. Because the bellows were always a bit leaky, one pocketed the camera when not in use, which would cover the red window. I think if it was autographic film, they would trade on it. </p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Autographic film is long long long gone. Eastman bought a company for the patent on it, but it never really proved to be a popular feature.<br>

About the only possible hope would be to find a vintage unused roll of Kodak A127 film on eBay, and unroll it in a changing bag to put in fresh film. But even that would probably be a failure, since the film would be much faster than the original, and wouldn't be orthochromatic, so it would probably get wildly overexposed when doing the autographic writing.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>You could emulate the effect by using India ink on the negative (after processing).</p>

[glen_h]

<p>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autographic_film</p>

<p>says that autographic film was discontinued in 1932. I never saw a roll, or saw any eBay sellers selling it. I do have some rolls of V116, but much later than 1932.</p>

<p>Some cameras have a door over the red (or green) window, but most don't.</p>

<p>As far as I know, film now has paper good enough that you don't need one, though it is probably better not to point the window toward the sun for long periods of time. The sun will warm up the camera if it sits there long enough, which also isn't good for the film.</p>

[greg_nixon2]

<p>As far as I know, sealing the autograph door is the most important thing to do. You are not likely to use the autograph feature so maybe a thin bead of black silicon, around the door flap would head off light leaks.<br>

Glen H has good advice on the red/green window.</p>

[donald_miller5]

<p>I was just discussing this same issue regarding a German 127 camera vintage circa 1923 that also had doors covering the red view window. What was suggested is that the backing paper on more modern films was sufficient to protect the film and maybe earlier film backing paper was not as effective. Or maybe the windows were not as effective. Another possibility is that maybe the covers were not needed at all and designed in for extra protection. It seems to me that at this point there are no right or wrong answers except that if it is expensive film then cover the windows.<br /><br /><br>

Do not know much but was under the impression that autographic film had "a" in its designation, ie A127 vs 127 and this feature for annotating photos ended in 1932.</p>

[james_elwing]

<p>black pvc electrical insulation tape can cover the autographic hole, then fold down the cover over it; well hidden. At worst, the adhesive eventually gets slimy, but will come off with petroleum spirits.</p>

[Two23]

<p>I regularly shoot Brownies and vintage folding cameras from 1904-1928, all of them 120. You do need to cover the red window. I generally use black tape for this, but have also taken the end flap from the film box and colored it black using a felt marker, and taped that over the window.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[Dustin McAmera]

<p>I don't cover my red windows, and have never had a problem, though as others have said above, it's a good idea to avoid letting the sun fall directly on it, or to leave it sitting in daylight for days or weeks at a time.<br>

I have read recommendations from a couple of retailers of 127 film (the old Efke stuff) that you should cover the window. However, I believe this was a reaction to a quality problem they had with one or two batches. People could see frame numbers in their pictures, but it wasn't because of the red window. Ink from the backing paper offset onto the film, maybe because the ink wasn't dry, or the whole thing was exposed to damp. So the number visible in each frame wasn't the number of that frame, but the next one. There was a long discussion of it in the 127 group at Flickr:see for example <a href="https://www.flickr.com/groups/127/discuss/72157594471325550/">'Efke 127 problems'</a>, <a href="https://www.flickr.com/groups/127/discuss/72157600139603953/">'Backing paper data imprinted on Baby Rollei negs'</a> (the little Rollei doesn't have a red window!), and <a href="https://www.flickr.com/groups/127/discuss/72157600233306856/">'Thin backing paper: Myth Busted'</a>. I think some people sent their film back and got a refund.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>I have used roll film that is 40 or more years old. <br>

I might think it is more amazing that the ink can be in contact with the emulsion for 40 years and not transfer. </p>

[ray_armstrong]

<p>Many thanks to all who posted a response to my query. Some invaluable info and tips.</p>