Want to process B&W again after 30 years

[david_johnson64]

<p>I shoot mostly with a DSLR, but I collect film cameras. I want to start shooting and developing my own black and white film again. I've developed and printed my own film back in the 70'--mostly bulk Tri X, with D76 (if I'm remembering right), that's what the local camera store had. I've got a changing bag and stainless tank and reels, I'm still able to wind on a stainless reel and always preferred them to plastic for 35mm. I don't think I need help on equipment or the process unless it's changed significantly, what I'm looking for is current chemicals and film to best suit my budget and purposes.<br>

One of my goals is to do a final function check of cameras for the least reasonable cost, the other is to do some enlargements big enough to deliberately show grain—my plan is to use these as backgrounds for my camera display rather than as standalone prints. I don't need perfection, “student quality” is probably good enough. I have no intention of setting up a full darkroom again, I'll scan and print or have them done elsewhere.<br>

What is a good budget combination of film and chemicals that's easily available online? A quick Google shows Kentmere is inexpensive and people claim reasonably good results, but I don't know if there are other films that are better values for what I want, or something is not much more expensive with a significant increase in quality. I doubt I want to bother loading from bulk film, but that's not a final decision. Suggestions, and is there something I'm forgetting?</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Not sure where you are, but in the USA it's really hard to beat the Tri-X and D-76 combination.<br>

For film and chemicals, <a href="http://www.freestylephoto.biz/">Freestyle</a> in Los Angeles has been in business back into the 30s, I think, and is still a great supporter of film. B&H and Adorama have a little less to choose from, but are also very good. A really fine source for more exotic stuff, including 'brew-your-own' chems, is <a href="http://stores.photoformulary.com/">Photographers' Formulary.</a></p>

<p>Some of us hardly know that any other combination than Tri-X and D-76 is even possible. :|</p>

[AJG]

<p>Tri-X and D 76 are still out there and still good products, although bulk loading Kodak film isn't the bargain it used to be. If you want visible grain you might want to try other films--Tri-X today has finer grain than it did in the 1970's.</p>

[rossb]

<p>Any B/W film would be a good place to start. Tri-X and HP5 are very popular and what I use. Kentmere is good film and priced low. I have shot a bit of Kentmere and see nothing wrong with it. BHphoto has the lowest prices that I know of but I do not know every place out there obviously.<br>

Chemicals from BHPhoto are also a good way to go. Developer, Stop, Fixer and a rinse with photo flow or equivalent. <br>

D76 or ID11 are good and very common developers. I use ID-11 (powder) myself. I use Illford stop (liquid to mix) and Kodak fixer (powder). Buying chemicals in powder form is a good idea for shipping reasons.. Photo flo is a liquid. It's probably similar to dish soap. </p>

<p>There are a bunch of how to process B/W film on you tube to watch and to see how it goes again if you do not remember all the steps. Matt Day on you-tube has a good one and he presents it well. </p>

[Mike Gammill]

Kentmere or Arista EDU are economical but high quality films and look good in D-76. Even though Tri-x has finer

grain than the ISO 400 versions of these films, many photographers prefer them over Tri-X or Ilford's HP5+.

[john_shriver]

<p>You probably want to buy chemicals from Adorama or Freestyle, as B&H will not ship liquids.<br>

For budget, HC-110 developer is <em>definitely</em> the way to go. The reason is that the syrup in the bottle lasts essentially forever after you open the bottle. Mix directly from syrup, say dilution B, which is 1 part syrup to 31 parts water. You'll need a children's dosing syringe to measure the syrup, available at any drug store. (Do <strong>not</strong> make the stock solution, it's short-lived.)<br>

For HC-110 strategy, see http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/<br>

Use any stop, and a rapid fixer so that you can fix modern films properly. I use Kodafix.</p>

 

[glen_h]

<p>As noted in a previous discussion, B&H has a few films in 135-36 rolls for less than $5 per roll.</p>

<p>D76 is still a fine developer, though not my choice. I most often use Diafine, but also have some HC-110 when I want something else.</p>

<p>I use Ilford Rapid Fixer, which comes in smaller bottles than Kodak's version. That works better, as I don't use it quite often enough. Rapid fixer rinses fast enough not to use Hypo Clearing Agent. </p>

<p>I started again about five years ago, after about a 25 year gap. </p>

<p>There are scanners good enough to scan the grain of many films. It might not look quite the same as traditional enlargements, though, if you really want to see grain.</p>

<p> </p>

[david_johnson64]

<p>Thanks all, this is exactly the sort of information I was looking for. There is a big price difference between Tri X and Kentmere in bulk, not so much for individual rolls, I'll stick with Tri X for now. </p>

[bruce_watson1]

<p>Things B&W have changed since the 1970. The big change was the rise of t-grained films. That would be TMax, Acros, and Delta. We've also seen the rise of some interesting new developers, like XTOL.</p>

<p>My personal favorite film/developer combination is TMY-2 in XTOL 1:1. That's all I use now. This after decades of Tri-X and D76. I've still got a mostly full box of 5x4 Tri-X in the darkroom, but I know I'll never use it; TMY-2 is just too good.</p>

<p>I'm just sayin' you might want to try the state of the art. If you don't like it, there's always the 70s to fall back on.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

I've shot tri-x and developed in d76 for 40

years. It worked back then and it works today.

No reason to fix what ain't broke. B&H has

both.

[mendel_leisk]

<p>David, you mention having a changing bag. Did you use one before, and you're comfortable with it? Just my thought: if you can light seal a small bathroom it makes things a lot easier.</p>

[harris_goldstein2]

<p>Nothing wrong with sticking with Tri-X. But, IME, there is a significant price difference between Kentmere 400 and Tri-X, even in single rolls. But "significant" depends on whether you're buying 2 rolls or 20.</p>

[rossb]

<p>I guess film cost is proportional to how much you shoot. Kentmere 400 is $3.95 a roll at BH, Tri-X is $4.95, and HP5+ is $4.65.. Myself I shoot about 1 roll a week so for me it's just pocket change for the difference in price. I use ID-11 because that is what I started with and it's a nice fine grain developer and you can buy it in 1 liter proportions which works out good for a low volume shooter such as myself. I am shooting Tri-X and HP5 currently. I like them both. Tri-X has the shortest developing time with a 1:1 solution of ID-11 which is good.</p>

[david_johnson64]

<p>Mendel--Yes, I've used a changing bag before, and I've practiced a bit recently with some salvaged film. Even when I had a darkroom, I preferred the changing bag.<br>

I'm not stocking up on film yet--I'll likely look into Kentmere again once I've successfully processed a bit of Tri X, and I may go bulk. The difference for 5 rolls isn't enough to make up for the uncertainty of an off brand while re-learning. </p>

[rossb]

<p>When it comes to bulk loading then Kentmere is the deal. You can shoot for less then $2.00 a roll with Kentmere 400. Kentmere is owned by Illford and it's a fairly popular film. It has some grain to it, and with ID-11 it has a very long developing time which may or may not be an issue. No reason not to shoot it at all. </p>

[henryp]

<blockquote>

<p>...as B&H will not ship liquids.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>OTOH there are dozens of <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Powder%2fLiquid_Powder&ci=576&N=4288586387+4254931960+3966147120">powder film developer options</a> all of which can be shipped. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>As noted in a previous discussion, B&H has a few films in 135-36 rolls for less than $5 per roll.</p>

</blockquote>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=2545&setNs=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4093113317+4130468176+4019732826+4130468181&srtclk=sort">B&W 35mm film options</a> start at <$3.00/roll.</p>

<p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

[zelph_young]

<p>If you want grain try Rodinal developer. Most B&W films work well with it. Bitingly sharp negatives with grain you can love.</p>

[david_johnson64]

<p>Update--I finally got everything together and developed my first roll of 400TX in HC110. Used a scale to measure the water since I didn't have a big enough graduated cylinder handy, used syringes to measure the full strength chemicals into the water, stored in mason jars with plastic lids. The jars went into a temperature controlled water bath circulator left over from a previous hobby while I wound the film onto a stainless reel in a changing bag. <br>

Film is drying now, Negatives look reasonable as best I can tell without handling them wet. One of the cameras apparently has some exposure issues (or operator error) the other one was good. The water bath makes it much easier than I remember to deal with temperature—at least now when it isn't all that warm. It appears that the charts all want temperatures cooler than about 75 degrees F, I don't usually go that low on the AC in the summer. <br>

Thanks again to all, I appreciate the advice and assistance.</p>