larry_lamovsky1 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 <p>Hello. I am a retired professional photographer, and I'm getting back into B&W film for the first time in more than twenty-five years. Back when I was active I shot Kodak Tri-X, both 35mm and 120 almost exclusively. I processed in HC-110B. TX still appears to be available, but at what is, for me, a pretty high price. I've also noticed a few films that are new to me, priced considerably cheaper than TriX.<br> Can any of you recommend a film and developer combination that might be similar among the new stocks? For the time being I'm going to be developing in my old metal cans and reels, scanning the negs, and printing digitally. I'm anxious to get started, though I know I'll miss my old silver based printing paper!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_shearman1 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Sometimes you can get Ilford cheaper. Also look at Aristo from Freestyle Photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren_williams Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 <p>If you knew and loved Tri x why not stay with it. I've been using it with xtol and been very happy with the results. After a few rolls when you get the results you want, then consider exploring alternatives. You'll have a expose-develop-scan process to compare to. For what its worth Tmax 400 will give you finer grain and I think the alleged developing issues are overblown but won't be cheaper.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_5888660 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 <p>http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00di2k</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 <p>Of course Tri-X has changed somewhat since you worked with film. It is finer grained than it used to be, but it still works well in HC110 dilution B. XTOL is a versatile developer that also works well with it too. Ilford's HP5+ is another alternative and is less expensive. Another alternative, especially if you like slightly less contrast is Eastman 5222, a motion picture film which is still reasonably fine-grained and works in most black & white developers. It's normal speed is ISO 200 to 250. For more of a budget there's Kentmere 400 and Arista EDU 400 (made by Foma). Tri-X, FWIW, is still my favorite, although I use some Eastman 5222 and cold-stored Plus-X. I use HC110 almost exclusively. With Tri-X bulk loading doesn't save money like it used to, but I still buy it that way so I can load the length I want.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhbebb Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>Welcome back! If at all affordable, I would stick with Tri-X, which has of course changed in 25 years but only slightly and for the better. Some less familiar brands of film may be okay (because, for example, they originate from Ilford production), others may be produced under licence by small independent manufacturers, and the technology is likely to be old and quality control variable. D76/ID-11 remains the standard developer, there are more modern alternatives but I have never felt the need to try them.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>I use Ilford FP4 for the vast majority of my work and dev it in Rodinal/Adonal. I've tried some of the Adox films and they are fine but I haven't the time at the moment to go through the learning process to fully appreciate them.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wouter Willemse Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>Over here, it seems really different per country what is cheaper; for me, Kodak films are a bit more expensive than Ilford, so I tend mostly to Ilford. I'm a beginner, so it's not even $0,02 worth: among the most satisfying results I got so far is HP5+ in HC110 (dil. E or H) - with Tri-X I do not seem to hit the right point with HC110 - maybe my lack of experience, but as HP5 is cheaper, I know what next order will be.<br> I've yet to try the Foma films, they're a bit cheaper, but the price difference isn't such that I'm extremely tempted. For slower films, I've tried FP4, Agfa APX100 and Delta100, and for now will stick to Delta 100 (works fine for me in HC110 too, though a first attempt with Perceptol has been putting a large smile on too).<br> All of this "judged" from scanned images and inktjet prints.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>I believe TMax-400 is cheaper than Tri-X, and should otherwise be a fine film, finer grain and still ISO 400.</p> <p>Ilford HP5+ is also fine, also ISO 400, and reasonably priced. </p> <p>Depending on how price sensitive you are, I would choose one of those, though there are some other ISO 400 films around.</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henryp Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>For simplicity's sake I looked at 135-36 ISO 400 traditional b&w films. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Format_120&ci=2545&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4093113317+4019732826+4130468181+4130468157">Sorted by price</a>. Tri-X, T-Max and HP-5+ are all under $5.00/roll.</p> <p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p> <p> </p> Henry Posner B&H Photo-Video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Bowes Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>Hello everyone and welcome back to b/w Larry. For the last seven months or so I have been working with the Ultrafine Xtreme (UFX) line of films, 120 and 35mm, primarily with the 400asa emulsions rated at 320asa, and developed with a home brewed, pyro like, staining developer called Obsidian Aqua (OA). Myself and several other users of this film believe it is an Ilford product identical to their Kentmere emulsions. The UFX is only on Ebay, but several firms carry the Kentmere brands.<br> The OA developer is a creation of Jay Defehr and you can find the data for it in postings here or Goggle "Obsidian Aqua" for the data. I use 1ml of the OA in 450ml Nikor tanks for 17 mins. Using a modified Zone System, negs are identical to those used in wet printing and scan excellently with my Epson V600. Aloha, Bill</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <blockquote> <p>For simplicity's sake I looked at 135-36 ISO 400 traditional b&w films. <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Format_120&ci=2545&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4093113317+4019732826+4130468181+4130468157&BI=11" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Sorted by price</a>. Tri-X, T-Max and HP-5+ are all under $5.00/roll.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> They cost a little more in Seattle, but still not so bad.<br> <br> Now compare the price for 100 foot rolls:<br> <br> HP5+ for $57.95, $105.99 for Tri-X, and $119.95 for TMax400, and free shipping!<br> <br> Kentmere 400 is only $39.95, but not free shipping until you get over $49. Buy two!</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Bulk isn't the answer for Tri-X and TMAX but the savings are still there for Ilford and Kentmere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Bowes Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>Hello again. Current pricing (USD) for the Ultrafine Xtreme products (both emulsions) on Ebay are:<br /> 100 ft bulk roll = $43 s/h included. <br /> (10) 120 rolls, $43 s/h included.<br /> (10) 135-36, $44 s/h included.<br /> Of interest to the 120 format shooter, is what they term their "Sampler" package. Six rolls of 120, (3) each of either emulsion, $24, s/h included.<br /> Aloha, Bill</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 <p>I didn't think to mention Ultrafine, but I should have. Several members, Bill for example, are getting excellent results with this film.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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