Speedlights and analog camera

[am_glazewska]

<p>Hello,<br>

I'm shooting analog and I've been wondering about off-camera flash setup.<br>

When working with a digital camera, obviously, the flash power can be adjusted with trial-and-error - but that's hardly a good option when one shoots film. I don't have a flash meter. Are there any guidelines/rules/anything that could help me? </p>

[AJG]

<p>A flash meter is really the best solution to this. You can probably find an older but still good Sekonic L-518 or similar for around $100 if you look. It will be well worth the money in saved film and processing costs. </p>

[SCL]

<p>If your flash has a thyristor control circuit (lots of the 1970-90s did) for metering, you should be ok. Just remember to set the appropriate aperture on your lens....it will be determined by the distance from the subject to the flash, not subject to camera.</p>

[JosvanEekelen]

<p>Don't forget to look how your flash works. Check for preflash that may influence a meter's reading.</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>The camera settings can be made the old fashion way using a “guide number”. With few exceptions, the flash manufacturer publishes a table of “guide numbers”. If not available you can test and generate your own table. <br /> <br /> The “guide number” is published based on the ISO of the film or digital setting. For the moment let’s work with a “guide number of 110. <br /> <br /> To use: Compose the picture and focus; consult the camera’s distance scale or estimate flash to subject distance. Let’s say it’s 10 feet. We divide the guide number by the distance thus: 110 ÷ 10 = 11. We manually set the camera’s aperture at f/11. Suppose the flash to subject distance for next shot is 15 feet. The math is 110 ÷ 15 = 7.3 -- we set the f/number to the closest value which is f/8. <br /> <br /> The published guide number system will have two sets of numbers, one for folks that measure distance in meters and one for feet. The numbers are different but the method of application is the same. Additionally the guide number table will list different guide numbers for different ISO films or settings. <br /> <br /> If unable to find the published guide numbers: Setup the camera and a test subject in a typical picture taking situation. Place the principle subject at 10 feet distance. Shoot a test sequence at each f/number setting. Inspect the resulting images for best exposure. Say the ISO setting (or film speed) is 100 ISO and the best exposure is f/11. Now multiply distance X f/number -- thus 11 X 10 = 110. This will be the guide number for your flash unit based on this setup.<br /> <br /> As to Shutter speed: The electronic flash outputs a super-fast blitz of light. Your shutter speed setting, so long as it is synchronized with your camera’s shutter, is moot. In other words the shutter speed will not impact exposure. We set the shutter speed based on the camera setting that will allow flash synchronization.</p>

[James G. Dainis]

Which model speedlight do you have?

[paul_k1664875007]

<p><em>Which model speedlight do you have?</em></p>

<p>I was wondering the same.</p>

<p>I'm a Nikon user and back in the film days used Metz flash units (60CT4). Huge advantage was not only the near flawless TTL metering, but also, be it non-wireless, the possibility to use multiple units off camera.<br>

It took camera brand dedicated flash modules, and connection via cables, but considering we're talking about 20+ year old technology really was a huge step forward for those days</p>

<p>Still have those flashes lying around, make an excellent portable on location option even if not TTL on my DSLR's</p>

 

[bebu_lamar]

<p>Guide Number can not be used if you bounce the flash. Once the flash hit the ceiling or reflector it's no longer a point light source and GN doesn't apply any more. Auto flash only work with 1 single flash and not multiple flashes (of course because there is no system like Nikon CLS back then). The best bet is still using a flash meter. You can get a very good Minolta flash meter II or flash meter III for less than $100. </p>

[jcuknz]

<p>The simplest way is to use a Guide Number as we did when flash bulbs, single use, were the vogue. I would treat manufacturers GN with caution as they often tend to be optomistic.<br>

Older flash units often had a GN of 56 or 80, never struck one with 110 :-) More modern ones [20 or 30yo] often had a sensor which cut flash back when coming close.<br>

On the front is a switch and on the back is the dial which tells us with the red position we can use f/8 anywhere between eight feet and 18 inches and the flash will adjust.</p><div></div>

[jcuknz]

<p>If the camera has X and M flash setting then use x for electronic flash.<br /> Simple check for sync is to with camera open and white card in gate fire flash looking from front of camera.<br /> Blue setting is f/5.6 from twelve feet to 18"<br /> The critical factor is the flash to subject distance .. the camera can be at any distance. With a film camera one can open the shutter with T setting and make multiple flashes ... 'Painting with Light'<br>

Note flash is preset to 100 ISO/ASA [bottom of dial]</p>

[Gary Naka]

<p>You NEED to experiment once, maybe twice.<br>

Take a photo of a person or a small group, at 10 FEET FROM THE FLASH, at the manufacturers stated guide number, or as shown on the exposure indicator on the flash. 10 feet is used, because most GNs are calculated at 10 feet with ASA/ISO 100 film. Though there are a few odd-ball that use a different setting to calculate the GN.<br>

Then take a series of additional photos at 1/2 stop increments of MORE and LESS light.<br>

Record the exposure used in a notebook. Or have a large sheet of paper with the exposure info written, and have the subject hold it. Then you can read it off the negative later. The paper is better, because it won't get lost; if you have the negative, you have the exposure info.<br>

Evaluate the NEGATIVE to determine which amount of light gave you the best exposure. That is your REAL guide number for that flash in that environment. The reason to evaluate the negative, is that printing will mask exposure differences, so all the shots will look the same.</p>

<p>The reason for doing this twice is that the results of the test will differ based on the environment. <br>

Indoors with a white painted walls and ceiling, you are likely to get the manufacturers GN or close to it.<br>

Outdoors you will be about 1 stop or more lower, because you don't have the walls and ceiling to reflect the flash back onto the subject.</p>