FP4 Plus - base side feels sticky

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<p>The issue I'm having is with FP4 in 120 size. Normally the base side of my film is smooth and shiny, and before I scan them I try to clean any drying marks with distilled water using a cotton tip and/or microfiber cloth. I never wet-clean the emulsion side.</p>

<p>With this film, though, the base side feels rough, even a bit sticky, and even unexposed parts look a bit cloudy. Trying to clean it with water makes a terribly mess. It gets even stickier and attracts every bit of dust and fiber. Almost feels like it dissolves with water, or at least absorbs it, because if I keep trying to clean it, the film curls strongly to the base side!</p>

<p>I've tried two developers with the same result: Ilfosol 3 and ID-11 (1:1). Fixer is Ilford Rapid Fixer. For the second film I also used a Photo Flo as a final rinse bath.</p>

<p>Any ideas? I bought a pack of this film "second hand", so it's not entirely fresh, but it's not yet expired (2016 indicated on the package).</p>

<p>EDIT: Gah, seems I've posted this in the "film scanning" subcategory. I have no idea how to change it, sorry ;)</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Consider re-fixing it. The "cloudy" issue is a hint on this. Perhaps your fixer is weak. I presume you mixed it at film dilution, not the weaker paper dilution.</p>

[James G. Dainis]

A milky/cloudy look will happen if the film is under fixed. Try putting it in the fixer again to see if that clears it.

 

(This thread has been moved to the "Processing Film" category.)

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Are you re-using your fixer? If you re-use and don't carefully keep track of things it's easy to end up underfixing. I never reuse fixer or developer.</p>

[max_blank]

<p>Thanks for moving the thread!<br>

For the first roll the fixer was freshly mixed, for the second it was re-used (but tested with a piece of film). I understand that underfixing can cause cloudiness, but please note that my issues are with the BASE side, not the emulsion side!<br>

The cloudiness is very minor anyway. I will try refixing it anyway, there's nothing to lose :)</p>

[User_5888660]

<p>Next time you develop some of the film, give it a 5 minute water pre-soak. Agitate like you do for fixer. For some reason, the anti-halation layer isn't coming off. Perhaps the film got very hot at some point, or you got a bad run of film (very unusual for Ilford.)</p>

<p>I generally pre-soak my MF film. I stated when I began to use a JOBO. A pre-soak is recommended for Jobo processing. While not strictly necessary for hand processing, a pre-soak seems to cut back on development problems. </p>

<p>It's worth a try on your next roll. </p>

<p> </p>

[Bill Bowes]

<p>Hello everyone. I had this issue with FP-4 when first using PMK Pyro years ago. Even a 3 min pre-soak did not clear out the dye used on the base side. I use a 6 wash system (Ilford) and put 0.1 gram of sodium sulfite in the first wash (5 min each wash) and have never seen the problem again when I use the FP-4. Both Tmax films will have a similar problem (remaining dye) if not fixed much longer than needed to fix the silver. Again, the sulfite clears all. Enjoy, Bill</p>

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That's very interesting. I've processed 35mm FP4 before without any issues. Looking at FP4 technical sheet, it doesn't mention anti-halation backing for 35mm, only for roll and sheet film: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2010712125850702.pdf

Can that be right? This is my first experience with 120 size, I've never had any problems with many different types of film in 35mm.

[glen_h]

<p>As well as I know, most 35mm films have a gray base for both antihalation and to reduce light piping. When the leader sticks out of the cassette, light can follow it in.</p>

<p>Since 120 doesn't have light piping, it doesn't need the gray base. On the other hand, 120 is next to the backing paper, which might affect the film in ways I don't know about.</p>