What developer and agitation do you think this photographer is using?

[LisaImmarco]

<p>Hi,<br>

Some of you may already be familiar with my obsession with this photographer's work. I am going to teach myself, or re-teach myself, developing film, and was wondering if you could help me with ideas for developers, agitation times, etc., to try to get the same results as Anders Petersen. He is getting a very soft, grainy look, but not blurry, with great tonalities and contrast. He uses Tri-X, with a contrast filter. I guesstimated a green filter with a compensation factor of two, so there already should be some contrast.<br>

Do you think he is pushing in development addition to the high contrast filter? What intrigues me is the softness, with good detail, and the great whites and blacks-is that large grain he is getting? I am a newbie here. <br>

I know experimentation is the key, but could someone give me a starting point? I was thinking Rodinal, but I checked out the online photos by Ralph Gibson using Rodinal and Tri-X, and the grain didn't seem as 'soft'.<br>

I also read that with modern Tri-X using Rodinal at suggest developing times is already 'pushing,' and to under-develop it? Now I'm really confused.<br>

Should I use a fixer? Toner? Once again, agitation times, etc?<br>

Please check out a few of Anders Petersen's prints in this series, "Walking on Water," they are very different. There's only a few:</p>

<p>http://www.tpw.it/portfolio/anders-petersen-venexia/<br>

Thanks, <br>

Lisa</p>

<p> </p>

[bethe_fisher]

<p>I'm guessing you're completely new to film if you're asking if you need fixer. BTW, the answer is yes, you need fixer. You always need fixer, if you want to keep the image on the film visible. <br>

Here is one basic resource for developing film - http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf <br>

While there are those who can make some guesses about the film, developer, and methods used based on the image, I'd rather not. From this end, there's no way to know if what I'm seeing on the screen is the same as the print, first off. I really can't even guarantee he's using film, despite the line saying his darkroom is in Sweden. <br>

My advice to you is to shoot a roll or two of Tri-X and have a good lab develop it. See how it compares to what you want. My gut tells me his look has more to do with the conditions under which he shoots than with the film and developer combo, but that's something you'll possibly need to see for yourself. Once you've gotten into a bit of a groove shooting, consider developing it yourself. I've never used Rodinal, so I can't help there. I've used D-76, Ilfosol S, Ilfosol 3, and now DD-X. Even looking at the negatives with a microscope, I'd bet it's nearly impossible to say with certainty which roll was developed with which developer. <br>

Your other best bet, rather than asking us, is to simply e-mail Mr. Petersen and ask him how he does it. </p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>Based on that link, it is hard to say. The 'detailed softness' you see doesn't need to necessarily come from how the film is developed; there are also lenses that are quite capable of this, and the light(ing) plays a significant role too of course. Given that the workshop talks about bringing a PC and cables for the camera, it indeed cannot be excluded that those photos started life digitally anyway.</p>

<p>I'm using Rodinal for Tri-X, and one of the things Rodinal is quite known for is the fact that it yields quite a lot of sharpness (with fairly notable grain as a result). So, whatever was shot sharp, will come out sharp - no soft-hazy effect at all. It can be quite contrasty, much like the presented photos in that link.<br>

As Bethe said, if you don't know whether you need fixer, maybe first start developing straight, following known recipes and try to get a feel for it - I am still in that stage too, as there is plenty variables to get used to. Trying to get a specific look right from the start is not a learning strategy I'd advice. For learning B&W development, Rodinal (usually R09 One Shot) is quite convenient, as it's cheap, easy to prepare and quite easy to find.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>"Should I use a fixer? Toner? Once again, agitation times, etc?"<br /><br />If you don't use fixer after developer, your images will disappear as soon as you turn on the lights. So yes, it would be a good idea.<br /><br />Toner is not used when developing film. It is used on black and white prints to give them a slight color cast.<br /><br />Get some Tri-X and Kodak D-76 developer (and Kodak Fixer or Kodak Rapid Fixer). Follow Kodak's instructions to the letter. Develop a few dozen rolls until you've got the basics down cold before you start worrying about how to get difference looks or the nuances that can come with different developers and development techniques. if you don't like Kodak, get Ilford HP5 and ID-11 developer (they are essentially the same as Tri-X and D-76).</p>

[andrew_brown7]

<p>He or they run what seem to be courses over in Italy and Sicily and if you are that keen you could think of one of those perhaps. Go on one of those and that would help you develop your own way of making pictures.</p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>Good catch Andrew... I can try to catch him when he visits Sicily, and ask him his development process for Tri-X.... by end of may we may know the answer ;-)</p>

[James G. Dainis]

He could just underexpose and overdevelop. Tri-X 400 at 1600 ISO and 50% more development time. Underexpose to lose shadow detail and then overdevelop to bring some of the highlight back

[andrew_brown7]

<p>Hi,<br>

@ Wouter, I never read anything by the photographer that Lisa is interested in, I just glanced at the pictures on show and wondered what makes him stand out so much in her mind. Obviously I cannot know the answer to that!<br>

I did look at his courses and thought they seemed reasonably priced and therefore mentioned them in my post. I never checked the dates! To my mind there are a great many other photographers who produce more interesting work; and thousands here on this site alone who produce stunning work and many I'm sure more than willing to share their knowledge with people such as Lisa who are interested in getting further with a nuts and bolts study of photography.</p>

[Robin Smith]

<p>Completely agree with Craig above. Do some basic developing stuff first (Tri-X, HP5/D76, ID-11 etc) and "get it down", before you start worrying about differing agitation methods, toner, microcontrast, bokeh, filters, white white and black blacks and so on.</p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>I can get what attracts about those example photos, though to me not convincing enough to sway me for a workshop as such (plus, I already am in Sicily, so that part's been covered). Workshops can be a great way to learn, though, and combined with travel certainly a great way to kill time.</p>