Quick Q - colour dev in blix bottle by mistake (TetC41)

[ciaran_mcmenemy]

<p>Hi! I accidentally poured the colour developing solution into blix bottle. I had just poured the blix into my tank and there was a little bit of blix in the bottle after. Since it's now mixed with the CD (along with any blix coming off the sides of the bottle),<em> is the CD useless</em>? I still have rolls to do, what a stupid mistake... the only way I could tell was that the 'wrong' bottle gave off that sharp odour...<br /> Thanks!</p>

[Bill C]

Yep, the developer is most likely ruined. It's very sensitive to bleach or blix. I'd personally dump the developer, but if you have a "junk" roll,

you might want to process it just to see the result (I seem to recall that you've been interested in experimenting with the chemicals).

 

If you want to know the expected results, look for the Kodak Flexicolor Z manual, see the "process control" and troubleshooting section.

[ciaran_mcmenemy]

<p>thanks for your speedy response. I had a look at what you're referring to (it's directed at labs, right?). I will take a picture or two tomorrow, snip it, and then see if processing turns out normally. If not, down the sink with £29 :O At least I've got 22 rolls from it. </p>

[glen_h]

<p>I suspect that many chemicals aren't quite as sensitive as we might think, but this does sound bad.</p>

<p>For the most part, it is easy to see when a developer goes bad, as they turn dark. <br>

If it is still close to the original color, I would probably do what was suggested, use a junk roll and see what happens. </p>

<p>In the case of color developers, it is the oxidized developer that produces the dye image. Extra oxidation products will produce dye where it isn't supposed to be. </p>

<p>When I used to do E6, I had little plastic containers with lids, like you buy at the grocery store for food. I put the chemicals in those, and then into a tray of warm water. Each was labeled on the container and lid as to what went into it. Those also make for faster pouring into, and out of, the tank than bottles and funnels.</p>

<p>But for E6, I would mix up enough for two rolls, do those, then throw it out. It didn't need to go back into any bottles. </p>

[ciaran_mcmenemy]

<p>is that the six bath E6 or simplified three bath? If it 's the six, did it involve exposing the film to light midway? I wonder if the Tetenal three bath is worse due to its simplification. <br />I typically put the jugs right next to their corresponding bottles of solution. When I pour out from the tank, I can't get it wrong. Except for today, maybe it's because I did it in the bathtub for once. I think I will use coloured tape to minimise the risk of accidental contamination.</p>

[Bill C]

Hi, when I suggested "to process it just to see the result," I really meant so that you can recognize the effect if it ever happens again, not

that the results might be normal. If there was enough bleach/blix involved that you could notice it, it's almost certain to be obvious on the

processed film.

 

Like Glen says, it sets off unwanted dye formation, most obviously in the "clear" film base; the cyan dye layer is the one that really takes off.

 

You're right that the Z manuals were really made for commercial processors, but they really ARE the closest thing to a bible for the process.

So there are things to be learned if one is willing to dredge through them.