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Something is WAY off


shutterstruckstudio

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Is this happening since the Lightroom CC update? Do you need to adjust your default raw import settings in LR?

 

One issue you have here has to do with bounced light. The kid has a hat on which is reducing exposure to light from the

sky and proportionally more light that's hitting the face is green light reflected off the grass. You don't realize how strong

the effect is when you're looking at it in the field because it's subtle and the eye corrects it automatically, and I didn't really

understand this effect until I did a stint as an architectural 3d renderer, but you do have slightly imbalanced light because

of the bounce.

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<p>Andy L thank you so much!!! I don't use lightroom I use Photoshop CC and now that you mention it YES it did start around the time I update CC. How do I correct the issue?<br>

I am so glad to know I am not going crazy! I was starting to think I was the only one that saw it! That makes perfect sense but it drives me insane. Is there a way to avoid this? Thank you so much for your reply. </p>

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<p>With regard to exposure compensation in manual mode, I would just add that on a single-wheel camera such as the D 5xxx or D3xxx series, exposure compensation is disabled in manual mode (the [+/-] button being used for the second wheel function). So if you stepped up from one of those, the change might not have been noted.</p>
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<p>Barry Fisher, I did go out today and try with a different lens. I used an 85mm and the outcome was much better. I would attribute the first upload as camera shake but the focus is really soft in the whole set from that day and today when using the 24-70. So today I went out and tried both again. The same issue with focus was there with the 24-70 but not with my 85mm lens it was not near as bad but still not as good as my images normally are. I have no idea what is going on. This leads me to believe there is some setting off in the camera settings but there is something going on with my lens. I will upload a screenshot from today and you can see the difference in the sharpness and focus of the image. Again there was no sharpening added to the image just artistic editing. </p>
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<p>Does the 24-70 feel like its hunting focus? Is the little MF-SF-CF set on CF? or MF? I don't know the layout differences between the 810 and the 700 but on the D700 it was always easy to hit that little lever and change the setting. I prefer it on SF for using auto focus, but if it goes to MF, the camera will be in manual focus. Its a real quick check. Otherwise, you will need to look to your 24-70 maybe.</p>
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<p>There might be a short list of things to tend to here.</p>

<p>1) If you're going to use AF, I'd recommend AF-C with 3D tracking. Very slight movements in subject or camera will throw you way off, especially at 36MP. Clearly that happened in this case.<br>

2) It would not hurt to do an AF fine-tune with this lens, to make sure it is indeed nailing focus where you intend it to be.<br>

3) If you want to know your true exposure, I'd suggest Uni-WB, or the closest equivalent. But in the case of this picture, you will see that your highlights are blown only because you used a profile with a tone curve. If you use a "neutral" or "linear", you will see that the highlight end has a little more headroom than you think it does. You should be able to save this shot.</p>

<p>On this last point - remember that the "standard" profile boosts highlights and attenuates shadows to give contrast. This causes highlights to appear blown where they are not blown in raw. You likely have from 1/2 to a full stop of headroom left in the raw. I believe LR is smart enough to do recovery by actually drawing on real data, instead of trying to reconstruct needlessly.</p>

<p>If you want your in-camera histogram to read (pretty much) correctly, you'd need to shoot at 5600K and use a "flat" or "neutral" profile.</p>

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I'm a novice at this exposure stuff, but, if the OP is shooting in RAW, how relevant are the 5600 degree Kelvin and profile

setttings? Do they relate to the pre-shot image and histogram seen on the back LCD and its effect on the photgrapher's

exposure adjustments?

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<blockquote>

<p>if the OP is shooting in RAW, how relevant are the 5600 degree Kelvin and profile setttings? Do they relate to the pre-shot image and histogram seen on the back LCD and its effect on the photgrapher's exposure adjustments?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>In current firmware, the settings for in-camera JPEG determine the histogram shown on the rear LCD, even when one is shooting raw. Nikon has suggested there may be in the future a "raw histogram" feature as a part of their advanced firmware initiative, but as far as I know, it hasn't materialized yet.</p>

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<p>that shot of the boy is out of focus, as mentioned above, focus is not on the eye ->crop.<br /> for photos like this set the camera to continous af, not single shot af and keep the af on button pressed.<br /> stay on the eye, take 3-howmany shots you want, use low fps, one burst - avoid weird eye lid positioning by bursting</p>

<p>also, on the right ear of the boy (left in photo) you can see motion blur.</p>

<p>so<br /> out of focus and motion blur.<br /> your other photosare sharp you say, here is your awnser.<br /> sorry.</p>

<p>what you could try the next time.<br /> breathe out<br /> relax<br /> take a photo</p>

<p>just like shooting a gun.</p>

<p>those photos happen.<br /> its annoying when it does.<br /> get over it and move on :;))<br /> happy shooting!<br /> cheers</p>

<p>edit:<br /> one more unasked for-advice.<br /> do not cut off feet like this.</p>

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Ara, I'm sorry but I don't know what the Adobe fix is. I don't use Adobe myself anymore. I just remembered the news

about new versions of the apps, and that once with an older version the upgrade clobbered my import defaults. It seems

to me the most likely scenario is software related issues.

 

Have you tried viewing the photos in other software, like Capture NX-D, to see whether the images render the same?

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