Beginners questions on camera and lens

[aaron_lucas]

Hi!

 

I wish to learn photography and I have finally decided to start my venture with a Nikon D3300. However, I am undecided on the lens

selection. I have a tight budget.

 

1.) Which of these combinations will be a better one?

i. D3300 body only with 35mm f1.8G DX lens - $452

ii. D3300 with 18-55 VRII - $536

iii. D3300 with 18-55 VR II + 35mm f1.8G DX lens - $674

 

2.) Will this camera limit my learning in any way especially in manual mode? I am interested in night photography, capturing street

children playing, portaits etc.

 

3.) Is shooting in live view a challenge with this camera?

 

4.) I dont have a computer that is capable enough to even open the large files captured from such cameras, forget editing. Is it going to

be a waste of money if I buy the camera without upgrading my computer?

 

I hope to get some good advice.

 

Thanks

[phule]

<p>1. What is your budget? If you can afford the camera with both lenses, then I would say go for it. However, if your budget is limited, then buy the camera with the 18-55mm lens. You will be able to learn A LOT about photography with just that setup. You can always add lenses later. </p>

<p>2. The only limit will be your willingness to learn. If you're interested in photographing at night then you should strongly consider adding a tripod to your shopping list. </p>

<p>3. I only use live view for macro photography, so I'm not a good resource for this. I would recommend you stick with the optical viewfinder while learning the fundamentals. </p>

<p>4. Are you sure of this? Shooting JPGs from the D3300 does not require a very powerful computer. Shooting RAW just means the processing would take a bit longer. I have used a 10 year old computer to work with RAW files. It's slow, but hardly worth spending a ton of money on just for editing. </p>

 

[aaron_lucas]

Thanks Rob. I think my budget is like as cheap as possible. I was also thinking about double kit lens option but it's going

slightly above my budget.

[phule]

<p>Not sure where you are located, but B&H has the D3300 w/ 18-55mm II for $497:<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1023353-REG/nikon_1532_d3300_dslr_camera_with.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1023353-REG/nikon_1532_d3300_dslr_camera_with.html</a><br>

And that includes a SD card, extra battery, and small bag.</p>

 

[richsimmons]

<ol>

<li>I have the 35mm 1.8. It's a great lens. On the 3300 it will give you a "normal" view of about 50mm, which is a good thing. Sometimes it's good to learn with a prime because you have to move your feet to "zoom" and you will get a better understanding of framing quicker. But, the 18-55 gives you versatility. I had the VR1 version. It served it's purpose, but overall it was modestly good when you got down to it. The 35mm is much brighter and will be better in low light situations.</li>

<li>There's only one dial on this camera and a lot of things are menu driven, so it will force you to slow down and learn. I know, I had a D5100, which is similar in style. Have you held this camera, because it is quite small. You can get a battery grip to help compensate. You will be able to learn a lot with this camera and it will take fantastic photos. The sensor is very good.</li>

<li>Live View is slow, IMO, in terms of how responsive the camera becomes, but it works well when you need it. I use it with a remote so I don't jar the camera. A 3rd party remote is $9. </li>

<li>You didn't tell the specs of your computer, but the camera will come with software (also free to download) called Viex-NX1 and Capture NXD is free now too. View is the basic software, NXD is more robust. Download them and try them out. Don't know where you're located, but stores will have open box and returned merchandise equipment that you can get on the cheap.</li>

</ol>

[Wouter Willemse]

<ol>

<li>Agree with Rich advice above.When it comes to learning, there are different strategies; some feel it is right to start with a fixed focal length as it reduces the number of variables you deal with. Others may feel that learning from the start how different focal lengths change your photo. There is no right answer. Personally, I think if you have no experience yet, start with the 18-55VR; it's a sound choice and you won't feel limited as you might with a single focal length.</li>

<li>The controls are a bit an issue for manual mode.But, as above, there are different approaches to learning, and the idea that using manual mode is the way to go.<br />The important thing about manual control is learning and understanding how your decisions for settings influence the final image. You can do that also in other modes than manual - it is about understanding, not the precise buttons you use.</li>

<li>If you prefer working in live view, consider a mirrorless camera - they're better at it. Personally, I think using a viewfinder helps in a few ways (better posture to support the camera and hold it still, focus on the scene you're composing without disturbance), so I'd try to get used to a viewfinder (electronic or optical) rather than the screen on the back. But for many coming from compact cameras, it is a bit a migration. Live View on DSLR just doesn't work as seamless, and to me continues to feel a bit clunky.</li>

<li>As the others said ;-) It's not that demanding, if it's a 5-to-7 year old PC, you'll be OK.</li>

</ol>

[aaron_lucas]

My PC has a 1 GB RAM and 2 GHz processor. When I tried to open a 10 MB file yesterday, it was struggling to open it.

[phule]

<p>[[ My PC has a 1 GB RAM and 2 GHz processor. When I tried to open a 10 MB file yesterday, it was struggling to open ]]<br>

I know you said your budget is limited, and not knowing how easy it would be to upgrade the RAM on your existing PC, but there are many desktop deals to be had. For example:<br>

http://flash.newegg.com/Product/9SIA2PF2SN0234</p>

<p> </p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>If you're just staring out, stick with the 18-55 kit lens and learn to get everything you can out of it before you buy anything else. The 35 1.8 alone is too limiting and buying it in addition to the kit lens would only duplicate a focal length you already have -- yes fast primes are very useful, but again wait until you have gotten everything you can from the kit lens.<br /> You can shoot just about anything you want with this camera if you learn how use it, just as you can with most other DSLRs. So no, it won't limit you.<br /> Personally I never use live view. I find the regular viewfinder on any DSLR much more useful.<br /> You absolutely have to have a computer that can handle the files. The computer is today's darkroom. Beyond having prints made at the drugstore, you need to have a computer to do pretty much anything. If nothing else, you need the computer to store your photos on and to burn backup copies to either discs, thumb drives or external drives, and to upload photos to online labs, etc. The good news is that just about any new computer you buy today can easily handle photo files. How old is your computer and why do you think it can't handle these files? Yes, it would be a waste of money to buy the camera if your computer can't work with it. But it's highly unlikely that that is the case.</p>

[aaron_lucas]

Thanks Craig. Is 8GB RAM and i3 processor combo good enough for photoshop, lightroom and other editing?

[richsimmons]

<p>I"m curious about the current PC you're using. A gig of Ram and a 2 Gig processor should be "adequate" for the most part. What operating system are you using? Have you done any maintenance on the machine (disk cleanup, remove bad files, close down other programs, remove programs that stay in memory, did a virus check/clean)? An i3 is ok. An i5 would be better. 8 gig is sufficient, but not exemplary. I use an i7 Mac, Late 2011 model, with 16 gigs of RAM. I have no issues.<br>

You can find some good used Macs here: <a href="http://www.macofalltrades.com/">http://www.macofalltrades.com/</a>. They have some iMacs that will do what you want for under $200. Comes with a 90 day warranty.</p>

 

[Matthew Currie]

<p>Seconding most of the above here, I have the earlier d3200, a very decent camera and quite capable, and the 18-55 kit lens is quite competent. It covers wide angle to very slight telephoto, and includes the focal lengths of the two commonest bargain prime lenses, the 35 and 50. When you have used it a while, you will be in a better position to decide which of those suits your needs. I have better and more interesting lenses from a long film background, but when I travel I still take the kit lens, because it's sharp and versatile.</p>

<p>Live view works pretty well on these, but the focus system involved is quite different from that used in viewfinder view. It is error free and direct, but also slower. For myself, I do not like using live view, and find it difficult to hold a camera steady, compose and get a good horizon with it. It's very handy for macros on a tripod, but action and wildlife are better done with the viewfinder focus system. A proper viewfinder is part of the reason I have stuck with a DSLR. </p>

<p>When I'm on the road, I use a little old netbook with 1 gig. of ram, Win7 and some crummy little processor to match, and though it is very very slow to process files in View NX2, it opens Irfanview for viewing fairly quickly, converts and stores them, and so forth. You can certainly use an older computer at least to start, even if it makes you scream with frustration at times. It's completely adequate for storage and for transferring my files to a backup portable hard drive. </p>

<p>If you are inclined to spend a few extra bucks, spend them first on a spare battery! Especially if you like live view. If you like macros and tripod work in poor light, get the very cheap and effective IR remote release. On the D3200 and 3300, this is the only way you can attain a true time exposure over 30 seconds. </p>

 

[craig_shearman1]

<p>"Is 8GB RAM and i3 processor combo good enough for photoshop, lightroom and other editing?"<br /><br />That would be plenty.<br /><br />If money is tight remember that on most computers it's cheap and easy to add RAM (see <a href="http://www.crucial.com)">www.crucial.com)</a> And when it comes to hard drive space, you can buy that later as an external hard drive rather than paying extra for it up front when you buy the computer.<br /><br />Even though I have Photoshop, Photoshop Elements and LightRoom, I find that I actually do most of my editing/postprocessing with ViewNX2. Until recently I was using a computer that was 6-7 years old without any problems.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>As for hard drive space, I have found the need for it phenomenal since going to digital, and since I use more than one computer at various times, simply don't worry about what fits on the computer. I have an external drive for the desktop, and a little USB powered terabyte drive for traveling. Everything gets backed up to these, the contents of the traveling drive duplicated at home. That way whatever computers are changed, or drives filled, I can just buy another and plug it in. A terabyte here, a terabyte there, storage is cheap these days.</p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>I personally would pick the least expensive package with the 35mm f/1.8 DX lens.<br>

It has 1 wheel so it's a bit slower to operate in manual mode.<br>

If you like liveview perhaps a mirrorless is a better choice.<br>

The 3300 has 24MP but that's not considered too large. I don't know what kind of computer you have.</p>

[aaron_lucas]

<p>Hi BeBu!<br>

What do mean by one wheel? Is this camera not suitable for using manually?</p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>The D3300 has only the rear command wheel so that when in manual mode one has to push a button to change the function of the wheel from aperture to shutter speed and vice versa. Higher end cameras have 2 wheels so generally the front wheel controls the aperture and the rear wheel controls the shutter speed. The D3300 can certainly be used in manual but it's just a little inconvenient.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>By "one wheel" it is meant that unlike some higher models which have a front and back wheel, in which aperture is adjusted by one and shutter speed by the other, this one has only a back wheel. By default the back wheel adjusts shutter speed, and when you simultaneously push the exposure compensation button (which has little if any useful function in manual mode anyway) the wheel adjusts aperture.</p>

<p>This is slightly annoying at first when using AF lenses manually, but very easy to get used to, and not seriously slower. The default to shutter speed makes sense since one can use any and all manual lenses without metering on this model, and for those, the lens's aperture ring is used, and only shutter speed is controlled by the camera anyway.<br>

<br /> I believe the only current Nikon DX format cameras with two wheels are the D7xxx family.</p>

<p>On mine I usually use aperture priority automatic mode, keeping control by controlling aperture and ISO, and, just as in the old days of the first AE film cameras, varying aperture as needed to force my preferred shutter speed, with exposure compensation as needed. The camera's meter is very good.</p>

[mike_earussi1]

<p>Two comments:<br>

1. See if you can just add some more ram to your motherboard. This would be the cheapest fix in the short term. <br>

2. get the kit lens and then look at the older non-AF Nikon lenses from the 70s and 80s-- excellent optics but much cheaper than modern AF lenses. </p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>I would add agreement on that last comment, if one really likes full manual control anyway. The D3xxx and D5xxx cameras do not meter at all with unchipped lenses, and work only in manual mode. But it is very easy to use the histogram display as a post-shot meter, and to fine tune exposure in a Raw image if it is slightly off. Although it is recommended only to use AI and later lenses on these cameras, even pre-AI lenses will work, as well as any and all extension tubes, telextenders, third party lenses, bellows, and, basically, anything that fits a Nikon F mount.</p>

<p>For years people have been clamoring for a "digital Nikon F" and the very expensive and beautiful Df is close, but in some sense, except for the DX frame size, that's exactly what my D3200 is, except that it goes even further back to the original F that had no meter at all. And, of course, it's way cheaper than either a Df or, for that matter, an F when it was new.</p>

<p>I use an assortment of older lenses on mine. The only thing I would suggest is that if you are doing a lot of manual focusing, and especially if you are a bit farsighted, you look into the DK-21M magnifying eyepiece. It reduces eyepoint so you cannot wear glasses, but makes focusing much easier, and it also changes the diopter. The built-in diopter adjustment goes only to +.5, which is not very good for some of us older folks who can't see close. The DK-21M adds positive diopter.</p>

<p>For walking around and shooting fast, the kit lens autofocuses well, and works fine.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>Too late to edit, I should add that among the few F mount items you cannot put on a D3300 and its ilk are deep fisheyes that require the mirror to be up. They are rare and unlikely anyway, but just for the record you can't use anything that requires the mirror to be locked up, because even though it is locked up in live view, it pops back down when you power off.</p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>I wouldn't focus so exclusively on manual, seriously. The idea that you have to have the camera in manual in order to learn photography or get familiar with it, for me isn't true. There is nothing you cannot do in P, A or S mode, and it doesn't require the the second wheel. I would not turn away from the D3x00 and D5x00 models when you are beginning in photography just because of that second wheel.<br>

As said before, it is about learning to understand how setting your exposure values affects the photo. Learning that doesn't require manual shooting, it requires shooting and paying attention, and later on pay attention before shooting. You can do that in any mode - the point is learning to see exposure values in the viewfinder and knowing that it'll give you the result you want, and whether it matches the quantity of light available to you. Manual mode is just a way to deal with that, but by no means vital.</p>

[aaron_lucas]

Thanks to all of you for helping me.

I have one more question. How is autofocus of D3300? As I said I have become interested in taking photos children

playing and jumping (not serious action, just jumping here and there) and night photography. Will it limit those styles?

[Matthew Currie]

<p>The autofocus on my D3200 is pretty decent. It is not nearly "state of the art" for complicated jobs like sports and birds in flight, largely because the number of focus points is small, and in part because the cheaper lenses are not as fast as the expensive ones nor as capable in very low light. But I find it quite adequate for most purposes. It's accurate.</p>

<p> </p>

[aaron_lucas]

So, is D5500's AF system any better than D3300's AF system? Will D5500 perform better in low light? Should I increase my budget and get D5500 instead. It will be very difficult for me to extend my budget just for the autofocus system. I will need to increase my budget by around $400.