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Air show advice please!


chris_wick

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Hi

I'm going to an air show next weekend (Biggin Hill in Kent) and have not really photographed planes before.

As I'm cycling there (to avoid traffic) I'm going to take my 70D plus just 2 lenses - the 17-55mm and either the 70-200mm or the 100-

400mm.

I'm inclined to take the 70-200 as I think the 100-400 may be a bit too "long"

Any thoughts? Plus any other tips?

 

Many thanks

 

Chris

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<p>Last year I visited a (military) airshow. Almost all pictures (1401 out of 1417) were taken with a 5D + 100-400. These planes were mostly flying ones. For stationary ones you may go with the shorter lens. The picture below is taken @ 250 mm.</p><div>00dKSn-557072584.jpg.a64b57fcb6ad1842a72cc70716197245.jpg</div>
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Take the 100-400 as you will probably need every bit of it and wish for more. If you shoot propeller aircraft keep your

shutter speed low like 1/200 and track the airplane otherwise you will stop the propellers which detracts from the

picture. Try to get the sun at your back. Pick up formations from far out and track them into photo range. Go to my gallery here on PN as I have posted a number of airshow pictures. Just click on my name on this post and then click on pictures on the bio and then click on airshows. Good luck.

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<p>OK, I forgot to mention exposure. Most of my shots were taken in manual. Every now and then I pointed the camera to a more or less neutral area on the ground, adjusted the exposure settings to the light conditions and shot with these. That did the job. There are more ways to set the right exposure: just try a few options (Manual, exposure correction, etc.). Experiment, you'll have plenty of time, probably.</p>
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<p>Based on my experiences, if you are planning to photograph planes in action, meter off an appropriate object on the ground to determine proper exposure value, switch to manual shutter speed/aperture, and use the exposure value for the highest shutter speed you intend to use. You might practice panning before you go (say with passing autos) just to get in the habit. I was usually able to get good clear subsonic plane shots that way....never worked for supersonic ones though. Also if you can get planes approaching either head on or at an angle, you will have much better success than if you try to catch them moving horizontally across the frame, unless they are going pretty slow. The attached shot taken several years ago was with a 135 lens, plane speeds were slightly over 300 mph in the canopy to canopy stunt.</p><div>00dKUS-557074384.jpg.f977b4d82df65c864ad5647277456774.jpg</div>
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<p>Chris -</p>

<p>Another "trick" to remember for prop planes is to keep an eye on the shutter speed . Many folks recommend staying well below 1/250th . If you go too fast you'll freeze the props (if it's a prop plane). Many feel this produces a poor quality image and isn't as nice as one which has a blurry (spinning) prop but with a sharp body. I guess it's an aesthetic thing and depends on one's taste. So, they advise on shutter priority to keep the speed where you want it.</p>

<p>For example ...</p>

<p>http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/gq2pfb4u/taking-great-photographs-at-airshows.html<br>

http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/08/09/aviation-photography-tips-for-taking-amazing-pictures-of-airplanes/</p>

<p>Happy shooting.</p>

<p>Jim M</p>

 

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<p>Agree with Jos, you'd need 400mm at some point. Not always for the reach, but to compress the view. I keep hearing that 1/125 sec would register prop...that appear in motion, but unless the aircraft is taxiing relatively slow....the result can be iffy. You can try it.</p>

<p>Les</p>

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Get there early if you can for better location selections. Also bring the short lens for close-ups of the planes on

the ground, often the pilots tell you about their plane, not just the military planes. Often in hangers, so bring a

flash too. I was in the Air Force so I was able to photograph inside some of the planes. Needless to say you can

get some really fine photos, not just the military planes, but everything that's flying! Have fun talking to the

pilots, they are proud people. Maybe offer to email an image of them with their plane. They usually never

refuse. You can ask to sit in the planes, not the military ones. Sometimes they are happy to let you have some

fun and sit in the seat.

 

Shoot at very high shutter speeds. Maybe 1/4000th to 1/8000th of a second. Set the camera to its fastest frame per second, such as 6 frames per second. Polarized filters really help a lot. You are looking for a clean dark blue sky, tack sharp, motionless images.

Also keep an eye out for the after-burners. When they light up it can make a fantastic image with this filter.

Usually the pilots kick on the after burners as the jet is taking off and often the plane will go right into a vertical climb

position.

 

I would also suggest avoiding auto focusing. The 100-400 is a really slow focusing lens and you will miss a lot

of shots. Use the IS, (image stabilizer.) You may also want to use the Panning function on the camera. For personal reasons I'd rather shoot with the 70-200, because it's faster and lighter in weight. It's also sharper compared to the old 100-400, so you can crop in Photoshop. I would actually suggest using both and get a feel to what feels best. The weight of the 100-400 can get painful on the arms after a few hours of hand holding the lens.

 

Post a pic or 2!

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<p>I agree with the others, you're going to need the extra length so bring the 100-400. I use the original 100-400 for college sports like lacrosse, soccer and football and it's sharp and fast focusing.</p>

<p>Or just get a 10 year old digital Rebel and a cheap 55-250IS for <strong>$50</strong> and you're still get great pics</p>

<p> Rebel XSi with 55-250IS<br>

<img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8899/18640164971_8af0df51ef_b.jpg%20" alt="" width="1024" height="715" /></p>

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8895/18633310302_3dd1c0b9b9_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="532" /></p>

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/537/18633905152_f0634d3d69_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Thanks everybody for your interest and the useful information.<br>

Brett - I hadn't really considered the benefits of a polariser but your photos have convinced me to give it a try. The yellow bi-plane shot is great.</p>

<p>Thanks again</p>

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<p><em>"Brett - I hadn't really considered the benefits of a polariser but your photos have convinced me to give it a try. The yellow bi-plane shot is great."</em></p>

<p>it was over six years ago when I shot those but I don't think I used a polariser filter, maybe it's the processing (or the sharp 55-250IS !) <br>

again, take the 100-400, you will want the extra focal length</p>

<p> .<br>

not an air show but a beach fly by -<br>

Canon 60D<br>

Canon 100-400 (original V1)<br>

400mm cropped<br>

<img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/525/18654136575_36a3a71683_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p><em> </em></p>

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<p>I agree with others: take your 80-400mm as it gives you good range of lens focals. I took this picture of Blue Angle numbers five and six at Andrew AFB, 2012. It was taken with Nikon D300, lens 300mm f/7.1 and speed 1/1600 of a second (Aperture Priority mode).<br>

<img src="/photo/18037029" alt="" /></p>

<div>00dKuM-557139784.jpg.575b15ad73c75dd52c4006038692d157.jpg</div>

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