Overall Fuzzy Image

[paul_zamsky]

<p>Hi Everybody,<br>

I'm new to film photography and have been shooting with a Contax N1 (Kyocera) and variety of lenses but mostly a Vario-Sonnar 3,5-4,5 /24-85. <br>

Since I've started using the camera I haven't been really successful in getting nice sharp crisp images. The latest film I developed was a TMAX 100 that I used outside on a really bright day. Here are examples of what i've been getting. I doubt it has to do with shutter speed because I've kept a low aperture as well as ensured I was in really bright conditions. Trying to figure out if there is something I'm not thinking of.<br>

Here are some picture I took with the TMAX 100. <br>

Thanks!<br>

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[dcstep]

<p>Take test pictures of a chart with the camera on a tripod. Be certain of you focus on a flat surface. </p>

<p>Using low number f-stops will reduce your depth of field dramatically. You had enough light in those shared pix to shoot in the f/8 to f/16 range. </p>

<p>Do things look sharp in the viewfinder? Can you see the lens coming into focus in the viewfinder?</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Camera Shake!<br>

1/focal length= slowest hand held shutter speed to use.<br>

Gently press the shutter button until the shutter clicks, never jab it.<br>

Use a mono pod.</p>

[Dustin McAmera]

<p>Are you using auto or manual focus?<br>

If auto, I understand this camera has five autofocus points in the frame, and you can choose which ones are used, to some extent. Check which points your camera is using.<br>

Still with auto-focus, you should have a Single AF mode, and a Continuous mode. If you focus in Single AF mode, and then move (or the subject moves) while you're still holding the button down, the focus may be wrong.<br>

If you're using manual focus, what focus screen have you got; plain, grid, or with the split-prism? I find a split-prism an enormous help.<br>

You could always try using shutter-priority exposure.</p>

 

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Your shot of the U.S. Capitol (welcome to my neighborhood, I work in Washington) appears to be more camera shake than a focus issue. At that distance your focus should simply in on infiniti. <br /><br />Focus doesn't have to do with film as such. But the first thing you should do is switch to ISO 400 film instead of 100. That means you will have a higher shutter speed and smaller apertures, helping eliminate blur from camera shake and giving you more depth of field to cover up focus errors. Load a roll of Tmax 400 or Tri-X and your mid-day bright sun exposure will be f/16 at 1/500. Got stand where you were in front of the Capitol in the afternoon (when the sun is coming from the West and will be behind you), set the camera on those settings and set the manual focus at infinity and I can guarantee you the negative will be sharp.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Metadata indicates a Noritsu minilab (NORITSU KOKI QSS-29) was involved in this process. Most minilabs can't handle true b&w film properly. Your description appears to indicate that you're developing the film. But is a minilab scanning and/or printing the negatives? If so, that may not deliver good results.</p>

<p>How do the negatives look under a loupe? A reversed 50mm normal lens will do in a pinch as a loupe. If the negatives appear reasonably sharp the problem is in the scanning and printing.</p>

<p>Also, check your film processing. I see a horizontal line along the lower edge of each image, indicating either a scratch from an automated processor or some other problem in film handling and processing.</p>

<p>Once you've ruled out processing, scanning and printing as culprits, then you could consider mechanical issues with the camera and lens.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>Gee, when I shot film I thought that focus mattered. I guess I was misguided.</p>

[paul_zamsky]

<p>Thank you for all the responses so far! I'm happy to hear that you guys think it's mostly related to usage than anything camera related. <br>

Lex I will take a look into the processing. I actually go and get them developed and scanned at B&H in NYC. Also myself I didn't notice the scratch thank you for pointing it out.<br>

David The lens does come into focus in the viewfinder (auto focus - most of the time Single AF mode) and I don't remember even going past f/8. I know on this run it was a low ISO but was expecting the low f-stop and the amazing bright conditions to give me much more flexibility in regards to shutter speed. (maybe will just stick to 400)<br>

Thank you all for the responses!</p>

 

[lex_jenkins]

If you're using B&H they've probably processed

the negatives properly, although the scratch

would bother me.

 

For now if you want too shoot b&w but can't

process film yourself, try Ilford XP2 Super. It

delivers good results, scans well and any

competent C41 process minilab can handle it.

 

That should help eliminate film and processing as

a factor in solving this problem.