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Is there a trigger for a Nikon D700 that...


richard_dulkin

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<p>can be used to set off one Nikon by taking a picture with another Nikon, or a trigger for a Nikon that will take a picture when there is a flash of light from studio strobes in a studio. I want to take a picture of a model from one vantage point at the same instant from another angle.<br>

Thanks Richard</p>

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<p>Hmmmm, dunno if you can still get these in the US, after Calumet's financial problems, but the British version sells them, and they are quite good for the price:</p>

<p><a href="https://www.calphoto.co.uk/product/calumet-pro-series-4-channel-wireless-trigger-kit-nikon-fit/CF0094/">Pro Series Wireless 4 Channel Trigger</a></p>

<p>You should be able to put the transmitter in the camera you're shooting with, and the receiver could be plugged into the remote release port of the second camera. You might have to slow the shutter speed down just a bit, but that should do what you're wanting.</p>

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<p>I do something similar with Nikons, photo'ing trains. Camera one has Cybersync trigger in hotshoe, trigger set to channel 1. Camera two has a Cybersync receiver plugged into the 10-pin set to channel 1. In hot shoe of camera two is another CyberSync transmitter, set to channel 2. Flash are set to Channel two. Shutter speed can not be set higher than 1/90s on either camera.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

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<p>I will look into the cybertrigger. This is what I am actually after: I am hand holding one Nikon, I release the shutter, a signal is sent from my Paul C. Buff transmitter to fire an array of Einstein 640's. At this point I would like to take advantage of that flash. If I have another camera on a tripod, that is facing at a different angle, could that flash, be picked up by a slave (such that one fire anther flash) be used to trigger the that second camera? Putting two cameras on a tripod and firing from a remote position is not what I am after.</p>
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<p>The flash must be synchronized with the shutter of both cameras, not the shutter release. That's a bit tricky. The flash must be triggered by one of the shutters, but that leave the problem of synchronizing both shutters to be open at the same time.</p>

<p>Trigger both cameras remotely, using one transmitter and a receiver on each camera. Trigger the flash from the first camera on the rear shutter, and use a longer shutter time on the second camera to (hopefully) guarantee that its shutter is already open when the flash goes off.</p>

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<p>Any cheap radio remote kit will do what you want. All you need is a second receiver or transceiver set to the same channel. You fire the handheld transmitter, and both receiver's will fire their respective cameras at the same time. You want the type of remote that fires the <em>camera</em> not the <em>flash</em>. Flash synch can then be taken from either camera.</p>

<p>You won't be able to fire the second camera in synch with the first by using either the flash or the first camera's flash synch signal. There will be too much delay in the second camera, from receiving the remote trigger to the shutter actually opening. In fact there may even be a slight delay difference between two identical models of camera receiving the same trigger pulse. But the way to do it is to have <strong>one</strong> trigger transmitter and <strong>two</strong> identical receivers on the cameras, as Edward suggested.</p>

<p>Complete trigger kits from the likes of Yong-Nuo can be bought for around the same money as just the 10pin connector lead for an overpriced PocketWizard.</p>

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<p>lightning trigger.<br>

the d700 has a shutter delay of 45ms, that right?<br>

with light traveling at 300 000km/s i am going to try this. and say you got the same delay as you normaly would have.<br>

45ms.</p>

<p>because light.<br>

thank you.</p>

<p>lightning trigger.</p>

<p>someone test it already :D</p>

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<p>Yup, the 3 part option seems simplist.</p>

<p>I suppose you could use a cheap grip with the vertical shutter button butchered into the circuit for the 'push-button' on one of the 603's. Pop another one on the handheld's hotshoe and the third on the remote hotshoe with trigger cables into the 10-pin sockets.</p>

<p>The receivers don't have to be on the hotshoe if you want to use any other flash triggers you want......as long as the connectors go to the 10 pin socket (or mini USB if on a 'non Pro' body)</p>

<p>3 x Yongnou RF-603N Mk. II's. ~ £28 so ~$40.</p>

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The way I have done it was with two pocketwizard systems. The transmitter of the first pair is in the hot shoe of the first

camer and triggers a receiver connect to the release port of the second camera. In the hot shoe of the second camera

there's the transmitter of the second system which triggers the flash. To be able to use the same flash with the two

cameras I set the shutter speed on the first camera to about 1/15th. The longer shutter speed on the first camera provides

a long enough window for the flash to be captured by both cameras. I won't say the system is elegant but it does work.

 

You can trigger two cameras to fire simultaneously at with the same shutter speed but the trick is getting the flash system

to be in perfect sync with both cameras.

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<blockquote>

<p>Yup, the 3 part option seems simplist.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>mm Not really, a MC-23(a) cable is created for this purpose, and alows the camera's to take care of the exact synchronising, all other options are dependend of the quality of transmitter and receivers and in most cases receivers are not always exactly syngronized for various reasons and always require extra setup considerations.<br>

Flashes can be controlled from 1 camera in the setup either by CLS or through a radio flash trigger setup, when the shutter release from both camera's are in synq , otherwise continuous light sources can be used for the special situation of dual shooting, eliminating the concern for flash synq alltogether...</p>

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<p>There is one thing most of you have forgotten. If you have two cameras and fire them exactly simultaneously they will NOT make their exposure at the same time.</p>

<p>After the trigger button has been fired the mirror must be flipped out of the way, the lens stopped down to the selected aperture and the front shutter curtain must be fully opened. Then the flash can be fired. How long this will take will depend on the camera and the lens.</p>

<p>This of course assumes that the camera is already focused. </p>

<p>Here is what Pocketwizard has to say:</p>

<blockquote>

<h4>How do I sync multiple cameras to a single flash event?</h4>

<p>Equalization, or synchronizing multiple cameras to the same flash, requires precision timing. Even though we perceive camera triggering activity as instantaneous, it is not. Even the flash, which appears to provide light only for an instant, has a time duration (flash duration) that needs to be factored into synchronization calculations.<br /> Every camera has a delay from the time it is triggered until the shutter is fully open. The trigger can originate from either the camera’s trigger button or via the motor drive port. This delay is called "lag time" and it can be different from camera to camera and may even vary between two cameras of the exact same model. If two cameras are triggered at exactly the same time their shutters will be open at different moments. If one camera is attached to a flash, the other camera’s shutter will probably not be open at the right moment to capture the flash.<br /> Some cameras are not suitable for equalization. For best equalization a camera must have a consistent lag time. If a camera’s lag time varies widely or unpredictably from shot to shot then it may not be possible to synchronize that camera. This is not a flaw of either the camera or the <a title="MultiMAX" href="http://wiki.pocketwizard.com/index.php?title=MultiMAX">MultiMAX</a>. A varying lag time in a camera is considered acceptable operation for the majority of photographic situations. Cameras are usually designed to respond predictably shot to shot, but are not necessarily or specifically designed to do so with the precision needed for equalization.<br /> You can read more in the <a href="http://www.pocketwizard.com/support/manual/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">MultiMAX Owner’s Manual</a>, on page 42.</p>

</blockquote>

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<p>How long are MC-23(a) cables? I think a cable stretched between two cameras in a studio or across any sort of open space is just asking for trouble. Especially if they're the screw-in 10 pin type. The cable wont pull out if snagged.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p> all other options are dependent of the quality of transmitter and receivers<br>

<br>

either by CLS or through a radio flash trigger setup<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Once you have a radio trigger setup, you have just the same 'quality' issues.<br>

<br>

There's reasonable syncing, say 1/60th for flash and there's technical syncing within, say, 1/2000th.... the latter isn't happening with regular kit.</p>

<blockquote>

<p> <br>

</p>

</blockquote>

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<blockquote>

<p>I think a cable stretched between two cameras in a studio or across any sort of open space</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Mike, i understood from the op that he did not want to span a stretch of open space because he mentioned :</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I want to take a picture of a model from one vantage point at the same instant from another angle.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Or maybe my understanding of this text was wrong, english is not my mothertongue so that is Always a possibillity i guess..<br>

So m feeling was that there needed two be two camera's very close to eachother, but possibly at a diffrent height and angle..</p>

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