Dead Nikon F4s. What can I do?

[ChrisSpeaker]

<p>Here is my situation. I wanted to sell my Nikon f4s and was getting it ready when I threw a new set of batteries into it to confirm it works. Low and behold both battery lights indicate that the camera is getting voltage but it's DOA after that. No display in viewfinder and no shutter firing/film advance.<br>

Any idea's what I can do to fix it? I did notice that there is corrosion in the battery compartment. Tried cleaning that to no avail.<br>

Camera used to work fine.</p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>I think it doesn't want to leave the home that it has been in for a long time.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>Have you checked and cleaned the contacts between battery case and camera? If there's corrosion in the battery compartment, it might be there too. <br>

<br />Last I saw, Vermont Camera Works (repair and resale in Pittsford, VT) still had a minty new looking MB-21 loose in their cheap rack for something like $20. If mine weren't as clean inside as it is nasty looking out I'd get it myself, but my poor old F4 would look like a hobo with a mink stole. </p>

[ChrisSpeaker]

<p>Thank you both for the quick replies. I cleaned the contacts and now I can get it to fire at slow shutter speeds below around 1/60 sec. Forget 1/8000 jams every time. Looks kind of like the batteries are weak but they are new.<br>

I'm going to try a new/different set of batteries anyway. I'll report back.</p>

[ChrisSpeaker]

<p>No go on the new batteries. Looks like I can only shoot long exposure and only one frame at a time before having to power cycle the camera. LOL. Oh well barring any other suggestions I'm suspecting the thing is bricked due to corrosion in the grip.<br>

PS anyone know how to get the grip apart? That is not separating the MB-D21 from the camera itself but getting the grip apart. Looks to me like I have to peal the leatherette away to get to outside screws?<br>

@Matthew - Looks like Vermont camera works doesn't have that item listed anymore - at least not on their web site.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>I don't think the item at VCW is listed, but if you are interested, email them. I think it's still there.</p>

[ChrisSpeaker]

<p>@Matthew - Thanks again I will give them a call Monday since their web site indicates they are closed for the weekend. Never know if I'll need one in the future.<br>

Note: IT LIVES! - repeated cleaning of the contacts as well as partial disassembly of the grip allowed me to get at the corroded areas of the battery terminals. Cleaning all these and now I can shoot reliable at all speeds and modes.</p>

[mlynch]

<p>Hi Chris:<br>

<br />I am glad you got your F4s to work, it is a wonderful camera. One other area, that is somewhat counter-intuitive, for the same type of symptoms is the interchangeable viewfinder. There are contacts there and they a are prone to misalignment. So, my advise is that you don't remove it if you don't have to. And if you do, be gentle.</p>

[BelaMolnar]

<p>The Nikon F4 and the Nikon FA was a beautiful and very good camera. So is the much younger F5. Until the time, eat away the electronic. My camera repair technician said; Never bring the D4 or the FA to me, for repair. Almost impossible to repair them, and not worth it, because the complicated electronic circuitry. Rather, buy a used working copy, cheaper, then repair a broken one.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Search engine: google<br>

Search term: mb21 service manual<br>

First hit: http://www.arcticwolfs.net/data/servicemanuals/MB-21.pdf<br>

Same queston was asked on another site a few weeks ago. The initial post was near identical wording. The above info was supplied there also.</p>

<p>Yes, the outer covering has to be lifted up/removed to access the screws. It can be done easily without damaging the covering.<br>

My experence was a set of Duracell batteries about 6 months old were checked and looked fine, 3 months later heavily corroded at the base of the grip. The grip base was flushed with moistened baking soda. It worked properly until it dried out. I failed to repair it due to lack of proper tools. I purchased a working used one off ebay for about the same price of the tools. The wires are #22 or #24 guage and the contacts are similar to a processor chip in many current devices.</p>

[ChrisSpeaker]

<p>@Charles Monday - Thanks for the info. Mine was corroded at the top of the grip. Just a little vinegar and q-tips in the proper place took care of it. Interesting you can remove the contacts from that area by removing just one screw inside the grip. Requires a very short screwdriver to get in there but I got it in, pull the offending contact out, and cleaned it. Screwed it back in and... as of this writing she's still firing away.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>I love my F4 even though I'm giving all my film gear a sabbatical while immersing myself in digital. I bought an 89 dollar F4 a couple of years ago, with fresh batteries in it. They're still in it. I forgot to turn it off last month. Went to do something and realized that. It's still fine. If it weren't so heavy and film so bulky and expensive to develop, it would be my go-to rig. </p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>The battery check is nothing more than a pacifier.<br>

Both lights will light when pressed in a static condition but when you fire the shutter it will stall during film advance for 1 to 3 seconds or not complete until the shutter button is released. It is more prevalent in Ch, Cl,Cs modes than in S mode. Press the shutter half way then press the battery check, you'll most likely see one light and may see no lights if the shutter is fired. On fresh batteries tripping the shutter with the battery check button pressed both light may go off for 1/60 second but with weak batteries that look OK static both lights will go off for most if not all of the shutter operation and film advance.</p>

<p>I no longer leave batteries in the camera for more than 2 or 3 weeks unless I'm using it regularly.</p>