Underdeveloped negatives

[raul_palma1]

Hi all,

 

I am having problems developing 35mm B&W film in T-Max developer. My exposures are fine, I used different cameras but but my

negatives come out underdeveloped.

 

I use the Massive Developing app as a reference for times.

 

I am agitating the first minute and then for 10 seconds every minute. Am I over agitating? What could be the problem? I used to use HC-

110 without a problem but now with T-Max I can not get a handle on it. As you can imagine the dissolution of seeing my photos ruined.

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Raul

[Rick Helmke]

<p>What film are you processing in Tmax? It sounds as though something may be off in your dilution. Personally unless it is Tmax film I'd go back to HC-110 or d-76 and I'd use the times Kodak gives you.</p>

<p>Rick H.</p>

[James G. Dainis]

Just a thought. Quite a while back someone posted as having the same problem. It took quite a while of back and forth but then we finally figured out that she was mistakenly using T-max replenisher.

[raul_palma1]

Thanks,

 

The last roll i developed was an Arista

Premium 400

 

I dilute 1-4...

[raul_palma1]

Thanks James,

 

I am pretty sure I am using developer.

[john_shriver]

<p>Could you be confusing TMAX developer with TMAX RS developer? Completely different developers and times.</p>

[lenny_eiger]

<p>If the times are too low for your film, and the contrast you want, increase the time. Don't depend on some stupid chart to tell you what to do!</p>

<p>There's a million variables. Thermometers vary all over the map. My fanciest Kodak one is 6 degrees off. Your idea of agitation is different than mine. 10 seconds, sure, but how fast do you move it around in that time? Do you start the timer when you first start pouring the developer in, or when you are done pouring, do you include the luring out time? The charts are only a starting point. Every single person's times will be different. Guaranteed.</p>

<p>The other thing is that if you are going to suggest a different developer, why not suggest a better one. HC-110 and D-76 are very mediocre developers. To go up in quality, try some XTol or some Pyro variation.</p>

[CoryAmmerman]

<p>I've been using T-max with a couple of different 100 speed films at 1+9 dilution for 7 minutes and gotten good results. I agitate continuously for the first minute, 5 sec every 30 sec for 5 minutes, and continuously for the last minute.</p>

[owen_omeara]

<p>I do the same thing as Cory and it works well for me as well.</p>

<p>-O</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>Your agitation regime is, to my mind, a little over-enthusiastic so that isn't the problem. If anything, that would give you more density and contrast. Is your TMax developer concentrate fresh - or has it gone off with age? Is your dilution correct? Is your thermometer accurate?</p>

<p> </p>

[lenny_eiger]

<blockquote>

<p>Is your thermometer accurate?<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Ahh, therein lies the rub. How would you know? One would assume that the manufacturing processes to make glass thermometers would yield high accuracy, but this is not the case. They do have high repeatability, which is the important factor. However, the only thermometer accurate is a scientific one - and they cost about $500.<br>

<br>

I tried a dozen different thermometers, from glass to electronic, NIST-Certified, etc. Traceable. It's bull. They might be accurate, but they are accurate "at points". As it turns out, these points are 0 C and 100C, where water freezes and boils. 70 degrees F is somewhere in the middle, and its anyone's guess, the traceable ones can easily be a couple of degrees off.</p>

<p>There is no way to tell if your thermometer is accurate unless you have a lab-certified scientific one that has been calibrated for your temperature ranges.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>I have 3 dial thermometers and 2 show the same temperature from 65°F to 75°F with the third showing 2°F different so I go with the 2 that match.</p>

<p>Another way is if one has two thermometers that read different develop film for the manufacturers starting point time at a given temperature with each thermometer. The thermometer with the biggest error will produce under or over developed negatives while the one that is correct to ±1°F will produce normal negatives. Similar exposures will be necessary on both test films to evaluate the results easily.</p>

<p>It does not matter if they are .5°F to 1°F off as development time can be adjusted easily to compensate.</p>

[lenny_eiger]

<p>I think you're method is reasonable, however, if one's sample size is only three, its statistically quite possible that two of them could be the ones that are wrong... just saying...</p>

<p>Also, I would say that I would never suggest developing film at the manufacturer's recommendation. I wouldn't take their word for it. One might do the first roll at what they recommend, then see how the film comes out... If the highlights are too dense, then the time was too long. And vice versa, of course.</p>

<p>When it comes to Kodak, you have to remember the look they are after. Most of us want a bit more in the shadows, and a neg that is a bit flatter, for a full-tonal range print. (Not everyone.) For this reason, exposure and development have to adjust off of what they recommend.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Manufacturer's published times are starting points which provide a good reference point in a sea of variables when just getting started in processing or as in the case of the OP for this thread there is a pronounced problem that needs to be resolved before the fine tune tweaks that most if not all do can be found and applied.</p>

<p>If one has to shift development time 15% or more to get reasonably good negatives then there is a problem with equipment, usually the thermometer being off more than 2°F. Change in agitation from 10 one second inversions every 30 seconds after the continuous agitation for the first 30 seconds to 1 minute to 5 one second inversions every 30 seconds will equate to 5% or less change in development time. </p>

<p>I would like to see an example of the OP's negatives. The problem may be something other than developing.</p>

[ric_helm]

<p>Calibrate your method you are using.<br>

1st, expose a roll of film using a grey card or equivalent card. toss a small object on the card. Bracket the roll in half/stops from +5 stops to -5 stops.<br>

2nd, Make careful notes of the sequence of over/under exposures made (so that after the film is processed you know which image is which exposure).<br>

3rd, process your roll using what developer, time, temperature, how you agitate.<br>

4th, print a contact sheet.. (no enlarger..contact..a light bulb overhead with a switch).<br>

5th, Now between looking at film density and the contact sheet, you can determine where to adjust your ISO on your camera with particular film to achieve a correct exposure.<br>

Congratulations! You have now calibrated your, film, processing and personal (or true), film speed. Just be sure to agitate precisely the same way. Use same developer, same amount of time, same temperature, with same thermometer. <br>

Of course we could get really technical, and use Ansel Adams Zone system.. I never had the patience for it. There is a publication called<em> The New Zone System Manual</em> by White,Zakia and Lorenz. This is a much simplified method of the Zone System.</p>

[raul_palma1]

Thank you all for the responses. I am going to develop some rolls this weekend and I will start with a test roll. I will let you know how it

goes.

[cj8281]

<p>A few questions, are you using Tmax developer 1 shot or do you have an amount that you have mixed up and are reusing it? Was the bottle just purchased? What is the expiration date on the bottle? What is the exact name on the bottle?</p>