stops on fuji and velvia

[ivan_vilches]

<p>Hello Guys,<br>

- using fuji velvia if i meter with a spot meter the eg. the sun(my highlight) on sunset, how many stops i need for add light necesary for keep on hightlights?<br>

- if i meter using spot meter the same film, a shadow how many stops for reduce the light and keep that shadows in deep shadows .<br>

in resume how many stops i have in the scale of a velvia and provia? <br>

thanks very much.</p>

 

[ellis_vener_photography]

Don't measure the sun. There is no detail there. Measure the areas around the sun. Velvia has a dynamic range of about

five stops , if you overexposed those highlights by around around a stop and a half, they should retain some detail but

your foreground may be very under exposed. My advice? Bracket like crazy. And choose the frame that best expresses

the emotional effect you want to create.

[david_henderson]

As Ellis says, about 5 stops. Important you realise that this means that without some help, it is impossible to render

contrasty scenes without blasting out highlights or reducing dark tones to black. That help might be altering composition

to reduce contrast, using grads to reduce brightness of the sky, using fill flash to add light to foreground, and so on. If you

simply do what the spot meter indicates you,ll tend to get the mid tones right but the extremes wrong. What the spot

meter does is help you decide when to apply help, how much, and what sort.

[walter_degroot]

<p>follow the ei rating of the film as any slide film is limited in range.<br>

except if contrastr is low early misty morning? try upping a rating of 50 to 64 or slightly higher.<br>

Only then never with flash.</p>

<p> </p>

[danielheller]

<p>Like Ellis said, measure the scene (in the lighted areas where detail exists) at some distance from the sun. Do not worry about the shadow areas, you can't capture any detail there. This (sunset) is a situation where you need to get as much detail in the lighted areas, the foreground will be a dark (black) silhouette. Carefully consider the location of the horizon line, and bracket +1 and -1 stop.</p>

[Karim Ghantous]

You could try a low contrast filter. This

will slightly improve perceived detail in

the shadows.

 

There are three kinds of this filter: low

contrast, ultra contrast, and soft

contrast.

 

This explains them - it's poorly written

but you should be able to understand

most of it:

 

http://www.tiffen.com/contrast_filters.ht

m

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Those Tiffen contrast reducing filters work by introducing flare. The decreases in dynamic range between highlight and shadow comes at the cost of an overall loss of contrast where desired, along with saturation, definition and "snap". In looking at <a href="http://vimeo.com/49535515">these video results</a> from the Tiffen Ultra Contrast filters, I'm not seeing much difference between those very expensive filters and the use of older and much less expensive techniques used by generations of cinematographers and still photographers. Single coated or uncoated lenses with poor inner baffling/flocking to control veiling flare would produce comparable effects. It appears to be an attempt to mimic the look of traditional film cinematography with high resolution video and no budget for atmospheric effects.</p>

<p>For that matter, the Orton Effect would accomplish pretty much the same effect and possibly better, for the film still photographer. It would only demand using more film - more frames per setup.</p>

<p>Pre-flashing film can also help tame very contrasty, saturated films. But it's a tricky technique and can produce odd color shifts. Pre-flashed films also need to be processed immediately, otherwise there's a risk of losing the effect of the miniscule pre-flash on the latent image. Nowadays there are fewer color labs available to immediately develop freshly exposed film.</p>

<p>A still photographer who prefers the more standard look of Velvia with extended dynamic range to cope with extremely contrasty situations would do better using a graduated density filter.</p>

[ivan_vilches]

<p>thanks for the advices, last two shoots was with velvia </p>