SB26 with D800

[blumesan]

<p>With my Nikon D700 (and the D200 before that) I happily used an old SB-26 Speedlight for my flash photography. This Speedlight worked just as expected in both manual (M) and auto (A) mode as long as one was careful to manually set the aperture and ISO on the Speedlight. Naturally none of the more esoteric Nikon flash modes (TTL, iTTL, etc.) were available, but I never found that to be a significant hinderance. When mounted on the camera and switched on, the viewfinder flash indicator became visible and the shutter speed was automatically set (if necessary) to not exceed the maximum sync speed.</p>

<p><br /> I have now just tried the SB-26 on my <strong>D800</strong>. The viewfinder flash indicator does not appear, and the shutter speed is not adjusted for flash. Does anyone know if there are other, perhaps more significant, changes in the behavior of the Speedlight when used with this camera? Yes, indeed, the flash does fire when taking a shot and the exposure is not obviously different from what one might expect.</p>

[Peter_in_PA]

<p>All that money on cameras... you'd be really really happier with a newer iTTL speedlight, don't you think?</p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>Don't waste your time with the SB-26, get an iTTL flash. Even a lowly SB-300 would be a better alternative.</p>

[peter_petrov1]

<p>As long as there is no risk for electric malfunction or overheating, it should be safe to keep shooting with SB-26 on D800. If it gives you enough light for your type of shooting there is no need to buy new flashlight.</p>

[blumesan]

<p>Peter & Dan<br>

Thanks for your replies. My preference for the SB26 over the newer iTTL speedlights was not based on budgetary considerations. When I shoot flash I am almost always in manual mode. I want to control all of the variables and do not wish the camera + speedlight "logic" to be making decisions for me. In this case the SB26 provides all the functionality I need. Also its maximum light output is only marginally less than the newer speedlights.</p>

[StuartMoxham]

<p>I'ved used an SB28 with my DLSRs for years in manual mode. Finally last year I got an SB900. Not used it much but I wanted the of camera remote flash functions.</p>

[blumesan]

<p>One of the most attractive features of the SB26 is the ability to fire it wireless and off camera, by triggering it with a weak flash of the camera's built-in speedlight. </p>

[Peter_in_PA]

<p>Mike Blume writes</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>One of the most attractive features of the SB26 is the ability to fire it wireless and off camera, by triggering it with a weak flash of the camera's built-in speedlight.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>A lot easier with iTTL and CLS, though, for sure.</p>

[Rick Waller]

<p>Got to agree with the sentiment here. I used the SB26 when it was top dog in the Nikon arsenal and it performed great. While it will still do the job especially if most of what you shoot is manually set, the "smarts" of the new iTTL flashes (800, 900 and 910) are almost surreal. </p>

<p>If you mount one of these iTTL units on a modern body, you would have to work very hard to screw up the exposure. I fully understand the desire (and often the need) to work in manual, but you have to experience what the new puppies can do if you let them decide for you. <br>

When shooting portraits during studio sessions or on-site weddings, I will default to manual. But when it is time to shoot candids or where the consistency of the lighting is difficult (indoor and out, but especially out), it is hard to beat iTTL. </p>

[blumesan]

<p>Many thanks to all for your advice and recommendations.</p>

<p>One of the most frequent questions in this forum goes something like this: <br>

I have a NikonDxxx and I really like the camera. But it is time to upgrade; should I get the Dxyz or the Dabc?</p>

<p>After a bit a respondent will post the obligatory question: <br>

In what manner have your needs / desires changed such that your current camera cannot deliver?</p>

<p>Does anyone see a parallel here?</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Mike, some time ago I posted a similar "complaint" about the D800 and its inability to recognise flashes like the sb-26, 25, 24 etc. I also got the "advice" to upgrade and stop being an old stick-in-the-mud.</p>

<p>Having used i-TTL flashes, my advice would be - forget 'em! The AA mode of my old SB-25s is just as reliable, and the D700 made using them very easy in Aperture Priority mode. Nikon have obviously gone out of their way with their latest cameras to try and force us to use their expensive and over-hyped i-TTL/CLS wonders. You don't have to. A flash is simply another source of light, and as long as you know what you're doing with it, it doesn't have to be the latest and greatest. Besides, I'm damned if I'm going to replace 4 perfectly good speedlights with ones that are no more powerful and have a less user-friendly interface, but would cost me nearly the equivalent of $1800 US.</p>

<p>Stick with your SB-26 in AA or manual mode Mike. You just have to remember to keep the shutter below the X-synch speed with the D800, and manually transpose the camera ISO and Aperture to the flash, or vice versa.</p>

[blumesan]

<p>Joe-<br>

Thanks for the reassurance. I'm happy to know that I'm not the only luddite in this forum.</p>

[Peter_in_PA]

<p>Mike Blume,</p>

<p>Not to "attack", but... you refer to yourself as a luddite... and yet you have the most advanced camera in terms of image quality (arguably) in this segment. The disconnect, for me, is weird.</p>

<p>Nothing wrong with sticking with old gear, for sure... but you cared enough about an old flash's behavior with a new camera to post a question in this forum... leads me to believe that you're the kind of guy who WOULD benefit from a modern flash.</p>

<p>It's a little like the guy who buys the latest and greatest and can't afford to put non-cheap glass in front of it.</p>

[Rick Waller]

<p>"<em>Does anyone see a parallel here?"</em><br /> <br /> Actually, no I do not.<br /> <br /> <em>"Does anyone know if there are other, perhaps more significant, changes in the behavior of the Speedlight when used with this camera? Yes, indeed, the flash does fire when taking a shot and the exposure is not obviously different from what one might expect."</em><br /> Folks have answered your question by saying that the iTTL automates a lot of the manual adjustments that you make manually and does so instantaneously, yet you then argue that there is nothing wrong with your existing gear. Most of the replies admit that the 26 will do a great job if you know what you are doing. The point I and the others were making is that the new technology makes it seamless and idiot proof. <br /> If the old technology works fine for you (I am sure it does)- by all means knock yourself out. But there really is not much need to be sarcastic when well meaning folks answered your question about whether the new strobes do anything better. They do. They allow you to work much faster (in an almost point and shoot mode) when you do not have the luxury of playing with manual settings.</p>

<p> Just out of curiosity - do you turn off the AF when shooting with your D800? If not, why not? Does the AF give you better results than manually focusing the lens? I can achieve perfect focus manually. Why did I buy an F5 to replace my F2?</p>

<p> </p>

[blumesan]

<p>I am sorry if some have interpreted my remarks as 'putting down' Nikon's newest flash technology. That was not my intent. 'Luddite' should not be too literally translated. I am always eager to embrace new technology when it serves my needs. </p>

<p>I was interested to read the responses pointing out the advantages of the iTTL speedlights. I do not question that such advantages exist; I simply do not need them for my work. And while I welcome all such replies, they are, in fact, not directly responsive to my initial question which was:<br>

"How might the behavior of the SB26 when used with a D800 differ significantly from the performance which I have enjoyed while using this speedlight with my D700?"</p>

<p>As for Autofocus, let me say (with tongue only partially in cheek) I consider it a necessary evil resulting from the apparent inability to incorporate good optical focusing aids in the viewfinders of modern digital cameras. (Again, consistent with MY needs most of my lenses are manual focus; I very seldom shoot moving subjects.) </p>

[dan_brown4]

I respect anybody that can effectively run a flash fully manual. When I had a Mamiya 7, the SB-26 and some little Metz

did a great job.

 

But, when you want to bracket fill flash in changing light, or keep the levels matched with auto ISO active, the iTTL units

are unbeatable.

 

Still, props to you OP, it's a dying art.

[bebu_lamar]

<p>I totally agree with you Mike! I see no reason to buy a new flash. As for the behavior I think that's the way new Nikon DSLR behaves with flash of that vintage. I don't have the D800 nor the SB26 but my Df doesn't recognize any of my Nikon compatible flashes including SB-15, SB-16b , Metz 60CT4 with compatible module and a Sunpak PZ5000AF for Nikon. The film F5 recognized them but not the Df. <br>

And sure I see a parallel. If the equipment you're using is working fine there is no need to upgrade. I do understand your question to find out how the flash would work with your camera and didn't say that it doesn't work satisfactory. <br>

Except for fill flash since I have the Df I need a lot less of power from the flash than from the film days. Still need the same amount of power for fill flash as the flash has to be almost as powerful as the sunlight. </p>

[joseph_mcdonald]

<p><em>I respect anybody that can effectively run a flash fully manual. When I had a Mamiya 7, the SB-26 and some little Metz did a great job.</em><br>

The only way I was able to get good, balanced night photos (Las Vegas, example) with my F100 and SB26 was setting both to manual. It was time consuming but they turned out good.<br>

When I saw a complete novice snap shooting with a D90 and getting good results I then decided it was time to move up to a D600 and SB910. Now if I don't like the results, which is rare, I simply dial exposure comp up or down on the body or speedlight.</p>

[g._v.]

I realize that this is an old thread but I would like to add my 2 cents. . .

 

I use the SB26 strobes with my Nikon DSLR cameras with excellent results. I always use the auto aperture setting and the accuracy of the sensor is amazing. Fill-flash is a snap: Simply use the ISO setting on the SB26 to fine-tune the amount of fill. (Of course, this requires using the manual settings on the camera.) Set the flash aperture one-stop faster than your camera e.g. f8 on the flash and f11 on the camera. Then increase the ISO speed in 1/3 stops to the desired amount of fill-flash. The amount of fill-flash will depend on the flash-to-subject distance but generally it will be between -1.0 to -2.0 stops. . . The amount of fill is up to you. Fortunately, now that we have a rear LCD on our DSLRs it is easy to confirm the amount of fill before committing to a specific setting.

 

In quickly changing light this technique requires a little extra time to accomplish. But 99% of the time I am shooting when the ambient light is constant so it isn't a significant real-world problem.

[BeBu Lamar]

<p>Peter & Dan<br>

Thanks for your replies. My preference for the SB26 over the newer iTTL speedlights was not based on budgetary considerations. When I shoot flash I am almost always in manual mode. I want to control all of the variables and do not wish the camera + speedlight "logic" to be making decisions for me. In this case the SB26 provides all the functionality I need. Also its maximum light output is only marginally less than the newer speedlights.</p>

Well live with the fact that no ready light in viewfinder but otherwise setting shutter speed manually shouldn't be an inconvenient. The SB-26 has decent power to be useful. I bought an SB-800 last week just out of curiosity but before that I never had an iTTL flash. I didn't miss much. Manual is great when I do setup shot and when I use more than 1 flash. Otherwise A mode works well for quick shots.