Arista Rapid E-6 processing kit

[greg_skrocki]

<p>I just ordered this kit to process slide film. Has anyone here had experience with it? I prefer to shoot slide film over color negative, but sending it out for about $10 per roll processed is about the cheapest I can find and I cannot deal with that, plus the wait is no fun. I just discovered this kit, and it looks pretty promising. Cost was $30 bucks, and it looks like it yields about 8 rolls. If this works the way I hope that's an awesome value. I had never considered processing E-6 at home because I was under the impression it was very complicated, but actually it looks no more complicated than processing b+w which I do all the time. Save for higher temperatures. I have some glass labware and a gas range so warming things up shouldn't be a problem.</p>

<p>My question is: the instruction sheet for this kit gives a time and temperature chart with no specifications on film brand and speed. Is all slide film processed for the same time regardless of speed?</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Yes, C-41 and E-6 processing is fully standardized, same for all films.<br>

Look at the <em>very very short</em> shelf life of the mixed solutions before you conclude that the Arista kit is a good deal. You either need to shoot a LOT of E-6 film, or hold it until you have a large enough batch to use the kit up, in order for it to make economic sense.<br>

When you do two rolls and then the kit expires, $30 isn't a good deal anymore.</p>

[greg_skrocki]

<p>Hmm, I read mixed reviews on the shelf life of the mixed solutions. I didn't however see an official figure in the spec sheet from Arista unless I missed something. I figure if I even get 4 rolls out of it I've already gotten my money's worth, compared to the mail-in processing. Do you have any idea of realistic shelf life of this stuff? Any advantage to storing in light proof containers in a cool place?</p>

<p>That said, the economic factor is not quite as important to me as being able to develop my film when I want, without waiting for a shipping turnover. Within reason... and it looks like this kit will at the very least allow me to break even on cost, but without the wait, so there's one positive.</p>

<p>If however I was looking for something with a longer shelf life, would Tetenal be a better choice?</p>

[RaymondC]

<p>Not sure about Tetenal specifically too much, I looked at it b/c I am not in the USA, so the stores won't international freight Arista to me, Germany does export Tetenal stuff but the freight was just as much as the product. But the thing for is "once mixed" they don't last long. You might be able to throw in marbles etc ... to get the air out or nitrogen or whatever they use but was too much fuss for myself and to collect up my rolls for one time developing and hopefully my developing skills is still ok as the previous time ... whenever that was (if at all).</p>

<p>I was at apug.org and read about it. The shelf life after mixed was something like 2 weeks or 4 weeks. Very different to the 6 month working solutions of black and white chemistry.</p>

[victor_ho2]

<p>It's been a long time since I did E-6. But here's what I remember. Temperature of the process was 100+/- .1 degrees. I used a water bath. This would be a sink and bathtub with enough water to hold the temp steady for the 30 minute process. I had a high grade thermometer that measured by .1 degrees. I saved exposed film in the freezer for as much as 6 months until I had enough to develop 64 rolls. A gallon of solution would process 64 rolls. I also purchased the slide mounts from a company called Pic Mount (probably out of business). They would sell me about 10k mounts at a time. I currently have about 100k slides processed that way. There are easier ways to do things, but this was what I did for many many years. I did finally have a top notch darkroom with temp controlled faucets. Then the neighbor complained about the water running at 3AM. Then digital came... Good luck.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Haven't done E-6 in years but have done C-41 recently. Some people claim they will last longer, but in my experience color chemicals are good for maybe a month at most once they are mixed. Anything beyond that and you risk color shifts, which can be corrected in printing or scanning with negative film but not with slide film if you are looking at the slide as the finished product.<br /><br />You need a very accurate thermometer. I use a Kodak Color Process Thermometer, which is accurate to within 1/4 degree. When processing, I put my tanks of color chemicals in a "road warrier" tank with a DevTech heater to keep it at the right temperature. (I don't have the C-41/E-6 temps in front of me, but they are around 100 degrees. You can't do it at room temperature like you can B&W.) Timing also has to be right on the money.<br /><br />If you use plastic slide mounts, you can just pop the film into them. But if you use cardboard, you will also need either a sealing iron to seal them, or go around the corners with a household iron.<br /><br />Doing E-6 at home is very manageable. You just have to take a little extra care compared with B&W. Whether you save any money depends on how many rolls you can develop before the chemicals go bad. As for not waiting for the shipping time, yes you can see your pictures if you develop the film right away. But if you're going to have to wait a month to have enough rolls to make full use of the chemicals, it's a moot point.</p>

[greg_skrocki]

<p>Well whether I get any real value out of it or end up spending more than I would from a lab, I'm happy just to spend the time doing it. I'd have no regrets about spending money on what is mostly a hobby to me, and if I end up saving money, it's just an added bonus.</p>

<p>I scan my film in so I leave them in strips of 6 frames. I guess if I get any variations because of screwing up the delicate time and temp requirements, if it's not major I can correct it.</p>

<p>My plan is to initially heat up the chems on my gas range over a very low flame, in pyrex labware. Then once in the developing tank I realize that the temp will drop over the development time. I figure the most simple solution is sitting the tank in a bath of hot water in between agitations.</p>

<p>My other idea was this: (this is just an example using estimated drop in temperature, which I'd need to test out to get right). Say I use the time 6.5 minutes at 105F. Suppose I heat the chemicals to 110F, develop for the 6.5 min, finishing with the chems at 100F. The drop in temperature leaves the target 105F right in the middle of the time. Would that balance out the rate of development the same as if I had it at a steady 105F for the entire time? I don't know if this would work, it's just an idea.</p>

[randall_pukalo]

Greg, no need for a gas stove, that sounds a bit dangerous. Same for electrical appliances, heaters, etc. all you need is a styrofoam

cooler, fill with tap water at 110f, with the dev bottles in the also. Wait twenty fifteen minutes, and water bath and chem bottles wil be at

100f, then start processing. Oh yes, doing a quick pre wash with water at 104 is important also, it brings the film up to temp, preventing a

big temp drop when the 100f chems are poured in.

Works perfectly, and very easy. I have done over a hundred rolls this way, and never once less tan perfect results. In fact, I just finished a

development run, and 5 rolls are hanging to dry in my kitchen now!

And yes, you will save money, the mixed chems last 2 weeks min, the concentrate more than a month once opened. I am being very

conservative with times here, they should actually last longer.

Welcome to home processing, you made the right choice for many reasons-cost, instant results, and quality.

[randall_pukalo]

Note 100f is the temp for kodak, fuji, and tetenal e6. Aristarchus uses 105, as the Che's are different. I recommend

tetenal, it is muchbetterthan the aritsta. I have used both, and stick with tetenal now that kodak kits are discontinued.

Tetenal is just as good as the kodak results, but much easier to measure, mix, and fewer dev steps.

Freestyle photo sells the tetenal now here in the states.

[greg_skrocki]

<p>Ok sounds good, I'll go with the cooler idea. The stovetop does sound kind of precarious, but I was just planning on warming up the chemicals in some glass labware over the smallest flame, which would I think would be safe if done carefully, although maybe overkill. A water bath sounds like a more stable plan. Thanks for the advice!</p>