greg_skrocki

<p>By trade I'm a master certified auto tech for 15 years (I know, that's not the same thing as a camera technician) but I'll admit I can be a bit stubborn to be defeated by ANYTHING in need of repair, lol. I have ended up in over my head in the past, now I'm a bit more careful to take my time and know when to stop with modern lenses, but I got lucky this time!</p>

<p>Thanks for the response! I'm relieved, just found the problem and it's fixed. In all of 30 seconds. I was about to remove the mount and start checking inside, and found that every mount screw was loose, each by about a half turn. Was not expecting it to be that simple, but I'll take it :)<br> It's interesting that with the mount loose, the mount end of the lens including aperture dial were 100% tight on the camera body, but the play started at the focal ring to the end. I'm not the first owner of this lens and I wonder if the previous owner had it apart for some reason and didn't properly tighten the mount screws. I've been using it about a year with no problem, and it only suddenly loosened up over a few day trip.</p>

<p>My trusty old Nikon 20-35 zoom has developed a serious problem. I had it out on a hike in the mountains, and seemingly for no reason, the barrel developed a significant amount of free play which has rendered it unusable. Nothing happened, it never took a hit or fall. Just walking with it over a few days, I started feeling a knocking in the barrel which upon closer examination, is free play from the focal ring onward. With the lens mounted, I can rock the whole lens barrel up and down (a little under 1mm of play at the end) , as well as torsionally. The mount is tight to the camera, but as I said the play starts at the focal ring onward. It is so loose I cannot get a lock on autofocus. I suspect that a retaining ring somewhere may have come loose.<br> Does anyone here have the same lens and had a similar problem and could shed some light? I can send it out to Nikon but my budget is tight, and I have some experience with disassembling manual focus lenses although autofocus lenses I'm a bit more wary of meddling in.<br> Thanks,<br> Greg</p>

<p>Hah, fellow Greg. I actually do have a manual in PDF, I guess I missed that page and I couldn't find the right wording to search. That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks!</p>

<p>Simple question about the 1D Mk III. I can't seem to find the answer. With only a CF card in and no SD card, every time the camera is powered on it pops up the warning message "No Card 2, Cannot Record Separately". If I choose to only use a CF card, is there any way to disable this message? It's not a big deal and it clears the second I hit any button, but I do find it a minor nuisance. In the menu option to set which format to record to each card, there is no option to record nothing/disregard slot 2. Is there something I'm missing, or is it just how it has to be?<br> Thanks,<br />Greg</p>

<p>Thanks for all the suggestions. Yes the problem happens with the DC ring zeroed. I'll try moving it rearward and monitor the results... as simple as that is I didn't even think to try that! Of course it's most prevalent wide open and at closer focusing distances, which seems to be the general consensus with this lens after more reading.<br /> I used to have a D7000 which had AF fine tune-- but I "upgraded" to the older D2x a while back for a more solid professional body. That feature was something I overlooked when researching the D2x. I never even realized that it didn't have it because I haven't have a focus issue with any of my other AF Nikkor lenses.<br /> <br />Update-- I did a controlled test and found that actually setting the DC ring to 2 Front brought it right into tack sharp focus. Interesting. I'm assuming that the complex optics that go into the DC feature on these lenses result in some slight inconsistency. So it seems on my copy, the 2 Front mark is actually closest to zero defocus, and I should work off that.</p>

<p>Hello, I recently bought a very nice used Nikkor 135mm f/2 DC and it is as phenomenal as I expected from a top notch lens. I use it with my D2x body. The only problem is that I get consistent front focusing. Not by much, but enough to make it almost impossible to get a good photo, unless I manually focus. Which is tough with the D2x's viewfinder. Rendering this wonderful, and expensive, lens and body combination somewhat useless. I'm VERY frustrated. I know that the newer Nikon bodies have a lens-specific autofocus micro adjust feature. And I know that the D2x does not have it. So the question is, what can I do? Is my only option to send this out to Nikon for servicing? Does anyone with similar experience have advice? Thanks.</p>

<p>Oh ok I understand... the more you ask the more you learn I guess! I had a better understanding of B+W film technology than color, but didn't know the similarities. Makes sense now, thanks for the informative responses.</p> <p>With that said, what an amazing world we live in that people actually had the minds to invent this technology. The more things I break down and understand, the more I can't fathom the brilliance of actually conceptualizing it in the first place. To think film is considered to be antiquated now... yet I think the chemistry involved is still equally as impressive as any other technology.</p>

<p>This is not so much a question as an observation, that has me a little confused. Out of curiosity, I decided to shoot a roll of Kodak Gold 400 and develop in B+W chemicals. I've always heard that it will yield a useable negative, just never tried it myself. So I did it out of boredom/curiosity. I stand developed in HC-110 1:119 for 60 minutes. I did get interesting results. Mostly extremely grainy and low contrast, but varying results frame to frame. Pretty useable though, and some rather cool effect.</p> <p>What has me scratching me head is that when I scan color negs, I often use the Digital ICE feature when there's dust or scratches, and I find it to work really well. I'm aware of the reason this doesn't work with silver halide based B+W films which is what I mostly shoot. But it actually gave me the same unusable result with this color roll.</p> <p>Now... I know with B+W, the infrared scan ICE uses to map out debris can't distinguish between what's unwanted and the emulsion itself (maybe the silver reflects it back in the wrong way, not sure exactly), giving you a mostly blank image. But developing a color film in B+W chemicals actually gave me about the same result, an unusable mostly blank image. I can only assume the chemical makeup of the color film emulsion is still the same, despite being developed in black and white chems, but maybe I'm wrong? Anyone with any specific knowledge have any input on this? I'm just curious.</p>

<p>With that said... clearly this mini fridge of mine is a pretty high moisture environment, considering the amount of frost that builds up on the freezer box. I'm under the belief that film likes to be stored in a dry environment. But as long as I want to keep it cold in the fridge, it's going to be in a relatively high humidity. Unless I put in some sort of serious desiccant. But as long as they are in their canisters, is the humidity level of the storage not such a big deal?</p>

<p>I have a feeling my film is ok, but I just to be safe I want to ask this question to anyone who might know better than me. I keep a lot of film of different types stored in a mini fridge. I must have knocked the plug out and didn't realize for about a day, and the freezer portion at the top which had quite a bit of frost growth, thawed out and wet some of the boxes. Naturally all the films are in their sealed canisters inside the boxes. I figure the canisters are air-tight enough to prevent any moisture intrusion. Think they should be safe? Any insight appreciated, thanks.</p>

<p>Hello, I just acquired a very nice R6 body with a 50mm Summicron-R. It has a very stiff, slow to move DOF lever. At first I panicked thinking the lens had sticky aperture blades, because I do see a VERY slight bit of grime or oil on them, but upon removing the lens and flicking the aperture pin, it's perfectly free and snappy, so that's a relief.</p> <p>I've read about the sticking stop down mechanism on the R4 and up bodies being pretty common. I also read in one article that this only affects stopping down the lens with the lever but not when firing the shutter-- not true. The lens is not fully stopping down when I fire the shutter. Here's what I noticed: the lens' aperture is good and snappy, and the actuating arm in the body travels it's full course when I fire the shutter with the lens off. On firing, it's extremely easy to stop that arm from moving with my finger, though it seems like it SHOULD be able to stop down the lens-- maybe something binds more with the lens mounted. I can move the arm in the body it's full course with my finger and it feels pretty free all the way through, and holding it in the fully stopped down position frees up the DOF lever to it's normal snappiness. So it seems something is binding within the interaction between the DOF lever and the stop-down mechanics, while also affecting the shutter's ability to stop down the lens.</p> <p>I don't really want to send out the camera and I'm pretty handy. Anyone have any idea how much is involved with opening up the lens mount, at least to get a look at whats binding up?</p> <p>Thanks,<br> Greg</p>