Help me put together my b&w developing kit

[mark_stephan2]

<p>I'd appreciate your input as to the gear I need to develop my own film (35mm). I plan to get the Paterson Universal tank and 2 reels from Adorama or something similar to get things started. After getting the tanks and reels what would you get next?</p>

[SCL]

<p>Timer, thermometer, graduated flask, film clips, squeegee, D76 developer, fixer, Photo-Flo.</p>

[Rick Helmke]

<p>I'm assuming you are going to set up a darkroom and make prints? Beginning with the film, you are on the right track. You'll also need some type of preferably opaque storage tanks or bottles to keep your chemistry in, two at least for developer and fixer. Never ever ever mix those two up. You'll need a graduate to measure chemistry. Some kind of timer and a good thermometer able to quickly read from about 65 degrees to maybe 125. A squeegee. Someplace to hang your fillm up to dry. For chemistry probably D-76 or Ilford equivalent, fixer or rapid fixer and a stop bath that usually comes very concentrated.</p>

<p>To makeprints you will need an enlarger such as a Beseler or Omega, a 50mm-ish lens (I like EL Nikkors and Schneider) and lens board and a 35mm negative carrier for the enlarger you have. Get a couple of extra bulbs for it. A safelight. Developing trays. A negative brush. A print easel to hold your printing paper. A grain focuser to focus your negs on the easel. Some tongs to move your prints from one chemical to another. Developer such as Dektol and either fix or rapid fix and stop bath. Another tray to wash prints in. Something to brush or blow dust off of your negatives. Printing paper. A timer for the enlarger.</p>

<p>That ought to be enough to get you in real trouble for now. It's not all that expensive these days to do this but it does require some space. It's a process I completely enjoy. Have fun and keep asking questions. There is a lot to learn.</p>

<p>Rick H.</p>

[chrisnielsen]

<p>I shudder when anyone mentions plastic reels - I had nothing but trouble with them, I use Hewes s/steel reels now, they are fantastic</p>

[yann1]

<p><a href="http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006210208211880.pdf">http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006210208211880.pdf</a><br>

This link is quite useful. It's very important to understand time and temperature when you handle your chemicals.<br>

No need to buy a lot of different developpers, but one that suits the film you usually use. Hc110 or d76 are a good start. The most important is to be consistant (also with your agitation), so start with one film and one developper to experiment.<br>

I personally use Paterson's plastic reels and I don't have problems, they are good enough and cheap. Also I use simple cheap plastic clips instead of professional ones, I don't see the point buying them.<br>

Squeegee ? No, they might scratch your films. They are for the prints. Even new and with lots of care you take a big risk.</p>

 

[chrisnielsen]

<p>Oh God no, don't use a squeegee on film - just use photoflo as your last step and hang it up to dry. </p>

[john_cogburn]

<p>Get some 'hypo clearing agent" of "film washing aid" to use after the fixer. Well worth the cost.</p>

<p>Get a 4 gallon bucket, and a couple of smaller pails. The big one is useful for washing the film after it gets fixed (and after the hypo/washing aid). The smaller ones can be used to cool or warm the developer. Save up a few vodka or PET bottles for measuring and storing chemicals.</p>

<p>I prefer a longer themometer that reads in Celcius. The 15C to 25C is probably the only range you will actually need.</p>

<p>HC-110 is a good developer and easy to mix as a one-shot. For dilution H, you may only need 7 to 8 ml. I use a plastic 10cc/10ml syringe, and get them in packs of 10 on the auction site. It's nearly impossible to accurately measure syrypy liquids in a cyclinder.</p>

<p>Spend a little extra and get a larger changing bag; just makes things easier. Got mine 2nd hand on the auction site.</p>

<p>Yeah... don't squeegee, sponge or touch your negatives. Photo-flo (or similar product) is worth it. If it leaves suds or bubbles on your negatives, then cut it with a little more water, and mix it at a lower concentration next time. freestylephoto is a good place to look for chemicals.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I was trying to get started again some 6 or 7 years ago - I gave a list in the OP: http://www.photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00MzY1<br /> I personally like D-76 as a developer and use The Photographers' Formulary Rapid Archival Fixer ( http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-163/TF-dsh-5-Archival-Fixer/Detail.bok -- no stop bath required, for film too and hardener really not needed these days)</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>I prefer stainless steel reels and tanks. Much easier to load in my opinion.<br /><br />I used to use hypo clearing agent after the fixer but stopped years ago. It only takes about 20 minutes to wash film without it as opposed to five minutes with it, so it's not worth the trouble, again in my opinion. I fill and dump the tank with water about half a dozen times after it first comes out of the fix, then let it sit under the running tapwater in the sink for about 20 minutes after that.<br /><br />I use D-76 and Kodak Rapid Fix. No stop bath -- just a one minute rinse in running water in between. I use everything one shot.<br /><br />You can hang film to dry. Get some large binder clips from the office supply. Or you can make a film dryer out of small blower dryer, a short piece of clothes drier vent hose and some duct tape.</p>

[dave_redmann]

<p>A decent changing bag is essential if you don't have a real darkroom. By the way, I think the Paterson Super System 4 reels and tanks are just fine, <em>especially</em> for 35mm; no need to go to stainless reels. For medium format the Paterson reels are just a bit trickier, but not bad. Just practice loading whatever reels and tanks with scrap / old film in full light before you try to load the film you actually want to develop in the darkroom or changing bag.</p>

 

[chris_waller]

<p>I've used plastic (Paterson) self-loading reels for the past 30-odd years. Never had any problem with them.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>My only preference regarding stainless or plastic reels depends on my developing process. For stand developing with little or no agitation, stainless works better for me - fewer problems with artifacts from uneven development straying from the unexposed margins into the exposed frame. And with plastic reels, too-aggressive inversion agitation may result in surge marks and bubbles/foaming. This seems to be due to the squarish section reel guides and flanges, compared with rounded wire guides in stainless reels. But with standard development and agitation techniques, both are equal in my experience.</p>

<p>And if storage space is at a premium, plastic reels may be more space efficient and versatile since they can be adjusted to accommodate from 35mm to various medium formats. But my space is pretty small and I still have room for a couple of plastic tanks, several plastic reels, three stainless tanks ranging from a single 35mm tank to a double Nikor for 120, along with 35mm and 120 Hewes and Nikor reels.</p>

<p>Rinse plastic reels in lukewarm water after every use, and if you will need them again soon, dry them under a fan. I used a recirculating air filter in my darkroom and set the plastic reels on the outflow vent to dry. Never a problem loading the next batch of film.</p>

<p>If your water is high in minerals eventually the plastic reels may accumulate a bit of gunk - lime scale, staining, etc. Contrary to myth this isn't due to Photo-Flo or any other standard photo wetting agent - if anything those surfactants will help ensure the reels are cleaned of residual photochemistry and silver gunk. But lime scale was a problem in my former rural home, which used well water from limestone basins. Even a slight accumulation of lime scale, rust from old pipes, etc., may hinder the little ball bearings that assist feeding film in plastic reels. An occasional soak in white vinegar did the trick, and no risk to the reels and tanks. We used the same trick for our coffee makers.</p>

<p>Squeegee: Arrrggghhh, no. Too great a risk of scratching the emulsion, especially if you decide to try some old school European films. No need anyway. To dry film without spots or streaks, I suspend the film diagonally using rubber bands and paper clips or mosquito hemostats. Water gravitates to the single lower edge and drips cleanly off the single lowest corner. (Tip o' the hat to Roger Hicks for that trick several years ago, either from one of his books or advice on Compuserve.)</p>

<p>Hardening fixer and hypo clearing agent (HCA) aren't needed for Ilford, Kodak or Fuji films. These may be useful for some traditional style European films that have softer emulsions. Longer fixing times in old style fixers means longer washing times. Otherwise, just use rapid fixer to keep it simple. No need for HCA with film - save the HCA for processing fiber prints.</p>

<p>Download the various PDFs from <strong><a href="http://www.ilfordphoto.com/home.asp">Ilford's website</a></strong>. Lots of great info for beginning to advanced darkroom enthusiasts. And most of the info applies equally to any film or photo chemistry brand.</p>

[edward_giarusso1]

<p>Mark, There are some very good responses here and you should do quite well listening to what has been said. I have had a lot of experience in film developing starting with graduating from the US Army Signal School, Ft. Monmouth as a Photo Darkroom spec. MOS 84G10 (check out my new member intro). So here is some advice: 1. I never went into a darkroom with out a Kodak Master Darkroom Guide. 2. Always try to use Kinderman Stainless Steel tanks with the plastic tops. I found them best for agitation and taping to release the air bubbles. 3. Biggest problem in any darkroom was dust. With the HEPA air filters now that can help. 4. Lastly, never try to cut corners. Follow the processing instructions and keep everything at 68 degrees. All the best.</p>

[fred_haeseker]

<p>Second Chris Waller. I've also used Patterson reels for decades without trouble. The important thing is to keep them clean and not load them until they're bone dry. Perhaps I have clumsy fingers and was too impatient to learn to use them properly, but I've always had trouble with steel reels.</p>

[gary_leonard3]

<p>For many people loading film on reels involves a steep learning curve. I personally have found stainless steel reels are best but get good ones. The ones with thin wire will fail you for sure.<br>

I have squeegied my film with Photoflo since the early 1960s. My photos have been published in more magazines and newspapers than I can count and now they are gracing the walls of art galleries. So, it works but as in everything you have to be careful.</p>

[lenny_eiger]

<p>Lots of good ideas. I would try Xtol instead of D76. It's a much better developer. The other thing I would add is that when you put something in PhotoFlo (I use Forma Flow, from Photographer's Formulary), leave it in there for 2-3 minutes. Then it will actually do what its supposed to do. The water should dry in one full sheet... Have fun!</p>