Has anyone ever seen light leaks like this before? [RZ67]

[emmet_green]

<p>I've been bothered by these light leaks ever since I started using this Mamiya RZ67. Please see gallery here:<br /><br /><a href="http://imgur.com/a/URxVz#0" rel="nofollow">imgur.com/a/URxVz#0</a><br /><br />Originally I thought the problem was one particular back, but the problem seems to exist across at least two different backs. Even worse, it's occurring intermittently across rolls of film. Some frames are fine, some have this very faint strip of discolouration either across the top, left or right sides.<br /><br />I've tried the standard method of checking the bellows for cracks or light leaks and it seems fine. Can anyone offer wisdom on what might be causing this problem? </p>

[peter_hall3]

<p>Some years ago I had similar issues with a M645, I never really found it, but after replacing a few light seals and fixing the peeling "walls" inside the camera it went away. I would look outside the box, so to speak, look for leaks in unexpected places, look for loose components (mounts panels etc). Check the seals around where the mirror flips up, that foam had rotted on one of my 645's, also what comes to mind is that the mirror hinge may be loose.<br>

To me it sounds like light is leaking in at the moment the image is taken or the film is advanced.<br>

Just my 2 cents, I have had many 645s but never a 67 however I would assume that construction methods would be similar.<br>

Nice photos btw....</p>

[tim_ludwig2]

<p>Have you changed the seals in the backs? In my experience (limited with leaks, but over forty years of shooting film) bellows leaks seem to be more diffused and usually track across the film. Leaks like this make me think of two things, either the light seals in the backs need changing (they do wear out) or that the film is not winding tightly and when you remove it, enough of the paper is loose around the spool to allow some light to penetrate.</p>

<p>I don't know how difficult it is to change the seals in an RZ back, but I've done my Hasselblad backs a couple of times with kits I bought from ebay and that worked quite well in about ten minutes time.</p>

[LenMarriott]

<p>Emmet, Looks like it could possibly be caused by incomplete film coverage of the chemicals used during processing. Who did the processing, you or a lab? Tim may be on to something. Could also be that the film paper backing was loose and\or the roll was exposed to bright light for a time. (just the edges affected) Just offering possible solutions before you replace those light seals. Come back & let us know how you resolved this. Many others could benefit from your findings. Welcome to Photo.net. Best, LM. P.S. The shot labeled 'light leak top' is a vertical composition and therefore your 'top' and 'bottom' are actually the sides of the film. LM.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>I had a RB67 years ago that had a much worse light leak on the top corner and side. The problem was the seals between the top plate and main frame of the roll holder. They are very thin fiberboard and dry out and shrink with age. The RZ holders are most likely similar. A thin bead of black silicone rubber along the seam of the top and bottom plate at the main frame of the holder insert will be a longer lasting fix on the holders than replacing the seal or remove the plate and use black silicone rubber on both sides of the existing seal. <br>

Check how tight the roll holder closes and attaches to the camera.</p>

<p>The leak is a thin one and is dependent on where the camera is in relation to the sun. It will be very difficult to find so check/replace all seals and check all mounting surfaces for wear or dings. </p>

 

[emmet_green]

<p>Thanks for the responses everyone, it's heartening to have knowledgeable people offer advice on this. I will try changing the light seals when I can get new ones, but I have a sinking suspicion the problem may be something less straightforward, as the leaks change position from left to right, or top (and also bottom in example #3). Also, shouldn't light leaks <em>bleach</em> the film rather than darken it?</p>

<p><br /> Regarding the suggestion that it's a development issue, my lab is a fairly professional film lab, and I have dropped off rolls shot with my Contax 645 at the same time as ones shot with the Mamiya, and the Contax rolls are fine. Also, the leaks are usually on the short sides, which is not the side closest to the edge of the film, but between the frames. I don't know anything about the C-41 development process, but I don't understand how lines could be produced <em>between</em> frames during development. Surely if this were a development error, any accidental markings would appear along the edge of the film, or at random intervals on the roll.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Are you fully removing the darkslide when making an exposure?<br>

Are you using the camera with the back in the same orientation each time?<br>

Strongly suspect the mirror seals and the mirror latch at focusing/composing, then the back. </p>

[david_smith35]

<p>Emmet, I pretty sure the examples you posted are not light leaks. If they were, the film edges would exhibit a paler or washed out area due to the extra light. The areas you point out are darker, which is more consistent with uneven development, although as it's not on every frame this would seem unlikely.</p>

[lubos_soltes]

<p>They are on the sides of the film ... those on top and bottom are on vertical shots when the back is rotated, so the "leaks" are only on the sides actualy.</p>

<p>these are not light leaks as was already pointed out, they would be washed out. I have seen similar on an ETRSi once and it was caused by incorrect film loading. Basicaly I loaded the film with one side too tight on the take up spool and the film and backing paper were curled a bit on one side. This caused the film to be "thicker" and thus was underexposed constantly.</p>

<p>If you have multiple same type backs, use only ONE of the inserts in all of them and test this (you can do a few frames in one back, then move the insert in a changing bag or dark room to the other back and test again ...</p>

[emmet_green]

<p>Thanks to everyone who offered help, I've traced the problem to the scanner. Apparently this can occur with the Nikon Coolscan 8000 when individual frames are not masked, and especially when they are close to a cut piece of film. Tediously masking individual frames with bits of black paper made these dark coloured strips disappear.</p>

[lubos_soltes]

<p>Glad you solved the issue. Seems all of us were wrong :-)</p>

[david_smith35]

<p>"Seems all of us were wrong"<br>

Apart from those who suggested it wasn't a light leak.</p>