compensation dial

[perry_cas]

<p>This has taken me ages to summon the courage to ask as i feel it is probably so basic. I have an xpro1. It has a compensation dial on it. I have never used one before. I assume that its function is purely for use in AE to sort of emulate what you do if you were just shooting in M. Namely exposing with the cameras light meter. Which always made me wonder why have one on a camera positioned as a semi pro with traditional controls? But maybe i am missing something?</p>

[johnfarrar]

<p>This is how I use the compensation dial on my OM D, mainly for landscapes. I use aperture priority, but evaluate the scene for its tonal contrasts. For example, if it's a sand-and-sky scene, I'll then dial in +0.7 or +1 compensation; if it's a dark scene with a few patches of light I'll dial in -0.3 or -0.7. Alternatively I'll take, look at the image on screen, and if needed dial in compensation and retake. Because the compensation is on an easily accessed dial (not buried in a menu) I've found this a fast and easy way to work. But you're right, if I wasn't lazy I could do it via manual.</p>

[fred_c1]

<p>On a camera, semi-automatic mode works faster than manual.</p>

[peter_gilbert4]

<p>I use the X Pro-1 as well. How you use the compensation dial depends on which metering pattern you are using. Say you use Spot metering, and meter a red rose. Red typically is darker than a "medium" tone (that the meter suggests to use as the "correct" exposure), so you might use the compensation dial to set -2/3 or -1 stop to get the red exposed naturally. OTOH if your flower is a yellow sunflower, you would dial in +1 to +1.3 stops as yellow is typically brighter than "medium". <br>

For landscapes, I typically use the Average metering mode (not Multi) which tends to lower the overall exposure a bit, thus avoiding blown out skies/clouds. But, then you can use the histogram to dial in some + exposure as warranted, watching the histogram to make sure you don't clip any highlights.<br>

This all works in A, S and M exposure modes BTW. I never use the Professional (P) mode.<br>

If you find a scene with complex lighting and are at a loss for the "correct" exposure, you can use the "Universal Exposure Strategy" (I read about this a while back in one of the monthly photo mags, I think Outdoor Photography - the USA one). <br>

1. Set your Drive mode to AEB at +/- 1 stop<br>

2. Set WB to Sunny or Cloudy - not AutoWB<br>

3. Set ISO to a fixed value - not Auto ISO<br>

4. Set the lens focus switch on the camera body to M (not C or S) and use the AEL/AFL in Switch mode to attain focus<br>

5. Use Aperture priority<br>

6. Use Average metering pattern<br>

Now, set the compensation dial to +1, focus on your subject (or part where you want critical focus) and make 3 frames with AEB<br>

Next, set the compensation dial to -1, and make 3 frames with AEB<br>

Now you have shots taken at -2,-1,0,0,+1 and +2 stops. You can review the results on your computer at home, and either (a) choose the one shot that has the best exposure, assuming no clipping of either shadows or highlights, or (b) choose two shots that bracket the range of tones (i.e. one shot that has no clipped highlights and another that has no clipped shadows) so long as there are good middle tones from a blend of these two shots, or © load 5 shots into your favorite HDR program (note you can delete the duplicate shot at "0" or average metered value).</p>

 

[jamie_robertson2]

<blockquote>

<p>On a camera, semi-automatic mode works faster than manual.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>And if not on a camera?</p>

[fred_c1]

<blockquote>

<p>And if not on a camera?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Some die-hards claim that driving a stick-shift works faster than things like DSG or paddle shifters. Go argue with them.</p>

[ant_nio_gomes]

<blockquote>

<p>I assume that its function is purely for use in AE to sort of emulate what you do if you were just shooting in M. Namely exposing with the cameras light meter. Which always made me wonder why have one on a camera positioned as a semi pro with traditional controls? </p>

</blockquote>

<p>The compensation dial works with all modes to introduce a exposure deviation from the meter's reading, as someone already referred it is more related to the way you measure the light and your own evaluation of its correctness, and the reason is that under certain circumstances the camera's readings can be influenced and mislead by the scene conditions.<br>

In manual mode you don't need this feature as you just move the aperture and/or the speed until you get the correct exposure and if you want to introduce a "correction" you can do it directly via these controls. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>(...), semi-automatic mode works faster than manual.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This it is not always true and depends either on the user and on the lighting conditions.<br>

Using manual mode can be faster if you don't need to change the exposure settings for your subject besides part of the scene do and causes the camera to make new readings if you use AE.<br>

The same apply to a photographer familiar enough with Sunny 16 that can judge the necessary exposure under difficult conditions that require compensation to the meter readings.<br>

However the reasons to use AE or Manual should not be based on this criteria only but on a matter of convenience and precision.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I never use the Professional (P) mode</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I was not aware of such a mode in X-Pro1, as it seems to have the same controls as X100 and this one offers Manual, AE if you use aperture on the A position, SE if you put speed dial at the A position and Automatic (or Program) mode if you leave both at the A position marks.<br>

I know that there are some people calling Professional mode to the one used in cameras that show a "P" mode, but this is just because they argue that the "professionals" want speed and don't loose time changing regulation rings or dials.<br>

This is a strange concept as all manufacturers' user guides call the attention to the fact that camera meters can be misleading under certain lighting conditions.<br>

In certain cameras this P mode can be more flexible that the one in the X-Pro1 and allow the user to change aperture or speed keeping the same exposure value, but I wouldn't call "professional mode" even to this one.</p>

 

[perry_cas]

<p>thanks for this chaps, food for thought. I tend to use a camera fairly slowly and usually only in M. I have to admit i have been using my cameras in recent times, as in modern, in much the same way i used my... Nikkormat. But i have been thinking lately that maybe there is useful stuff here.....<br>

Thanks again.<br>

Perry</p>

[andrewg_ny]

I always assumed that when people call P 'professional' they were mocking it as if its full automation was suitable only for

newbies. (I don't really believe this myself.) I've always called 'program' as that's what the user manuals usually call it.

 

I think it's great if you feel good using your camera in manual all the time. The automated modes are supposed to be

more convenient but the end result can be the same, it's just allowing different ways of solving the same problem.