Tips On Processing Arista II Ortho Litho 4x5

[paul_brenner1]

<p>I've been shooting a lot of Arista II Ortho Litho film, trying to nail down exposure and development times. In this process, I've read many posts advocating different approaches. Things began to fall into place when I read a post suggesting using highly-diluted HC-110 (1:200 from syrup).<br>

<br />That made sense:</p>

<ul>

<li>Film developers, all else being equal, are lower contrast than paper developers</li>

<li>I shoot a lot of paper negs, and use dilute HC-110</li>

<li>Even dilute paper developer I tried resulted in excessive contrast</li>

</ul>

<p>The suggested development time for 1:200 HC-110 was so long (20 minutes or so) that I figured I could use less dilution. So I started with 1:150 from syrup. I've gotten long-scale, normal looking negatives. Details:</p>

<ul>

<li>ISO 3</li>

<li>Highlights placed on Zone VIII (I usually shoot in soft light and use the Picker "Modified Zone System")</li>

<li>HC-110 diluted 1:150 from syrup (1/3 oz. to 50 oz of water)</li>

<li>72 degrees</li>

<li>Tray process, 7 minutes</li>

<li>Agitation gentle and continuous for 30 seconds, then ten seconds once a minute</li>

</ul>

<p>Note: the recent article in "Photo Techniques" said to use a water stop bath. I find that if I use a very dilute stop bath ( 1/8 oz to 40 oz of water) there are no harmful effects on the negative.</p>

<p>As always, "your mileage may vary especially if you are shooting in more contrasty situations, but I offer the above as a place to start that should get you close.<br>

<br />Paul</p>

[robert_holt4]

<p> purchased a couple packages of this to give it a go in my 5x7. I spent an amazing amount of time sifting through all the advice and guidance and debate across many many forums and websites and in the end was more confused than ever. Well, I determined last night to just take a photo. I've documented this on my blog <a href="https://allaspectsphotography.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">https://allaspectsphotography.wordpress.com</a> complete with photos, step by step process etc and the photo I made. It's way too much to put here. I hope it proves useful. <br /><br />I will summarize the essentials though:<br /><br />ISO 6 shot at f5 at 2 seconds. <br /><br />Dektol @ 1+30, @ 68F. I think that giving the negative time in the developer is key. I also think that intermittent agitation is the way to go. A stand development approach might prove fruitful.<br /><br />STOP: was water, tap water, and it comes out of the cold side mid 60s. Around 3 minutes here. I agitated constantly.<br /><br />FIXER: was Kodak Rapid Fix. I fixed until the negative cleared. This ended up being for around 4 minutes. I agitated constantly.</p>