Want 8x10 cheapest

[henry_finley1]

<p>I am now looking into entry into 8x10. It doesn't look cheap. I wonder how to get an 8x10 to take into the field and mount atop my Tiltall. That's about all I can hope for, because I'm so dead dirt-poor. If I have to do some fix-up on the camera or lens, that's OK. I just don't have time to build one to get out of the money woes. So, how do I do this? Thanks.</p>

[jim_momary]

<p>Henry -<br>

Well, "8x10" and "cheap" are somewhat antagonistic terms. Even anything but B+W film as DIY gets pricey for just plinking around.<br>

Ebay in the last two weeks sold a few 8x10's for $450-650 (with lens) for more mundane brands.<br>

Sold prices did range up to $2550 for the well known, quality kits. Unless you have another source, that seems to be the current market status (crudely).<br>

Can you do what you want to do in 4x5?<br>

That's closer to impoverished values. For $300 + shipping I got one Calumet last year with 210 Symmar, film holders, case, compendium hood and some other goodies, all in rather pristine shape, off Ebay.<br>

Jim</p>

[steve_mareno1]

<p>As Jim said, 8x10 is not cheap, UNLESS you do it yourself. I would do just that if that was my desire, as buying anything pre-made, even ancient, requires a lot of money. Here's a link to DIY LF camera building. If all you are after is contact printing 8x10 and don't need movements, get yourself a back and film holder(s) and build a simple box camera around that. The lens will be the expensive part, but since you wouldn't need a lot of coverage w/o movements, the price could be kept down. If I was doing this, I'd build a simple camera as I described and put a LF Heliar on it. The contact prints would be super!</p>

<p>http://home.online.no/~gjon/camerabuilders.htm</p>

[fred_haeseker]

<p>I was lucky. I found a good post-WW2 Ansco Universal for $300 (after haggling) in a secondhand camera store, complete with Schneider Xenar 240mm in a Compound shutter and 3 film holders. This lens is meant for a 5x7 and only allows small movements if it's stopped way down. Lucky again, for $25 I also found a really ancient (ca. 100 years old) Wollensak Vinco-Anastigmat 300mm in a Betax No 4 shutter which does allow movements (nice vintage results). The bellows was OK, but just to make sure I reinforced the corners with a patching compound.<br>

The Ansco is really heavy, about 13 lbs. without lens. I tried it on a Tiltall, but this tripod was just too light. Lucky a third time, for $100 I found an old wooden Ries which holds the Ansco steady as a rock. Again, heavy: camera, tripod, lenses, etc. add up to about 30 lbs.<br>

Finding all this stuff took time and patience, but I ended up with a good working kit for what I think is pretty cheap.</p>

[allancobb]

<p>If you're not too choosey on the camera and/or lens, you can get something for less than $300; I got my Burke & James 8x10 Grover monorail on the Bay for $270 or so. It came with a 305mm f/4.5 Carl Meyer Anastigmat that although somewhat disparaged, at least from my tests and experience is actually a decent lens. I guess they can vary since they came from assorted manufacturers. See <a href="/large-format-photography-forum/00aBlI">my post</a> about this camera and lens from a while ago. Good luck and if you go for it, as Steve alluded to above you won't be disappointed!</p>

[leicaglow]

If your purpose is to gain sharpness, I suggest you would be wasting your time and money by putting it in a Tiltall.

Though very good tripods, they really cant support 8x10 effectively. Even 4x5 is a stretch.

[drew bedo]

<p>Several Smart @$$ remarks come to mind, both refer to sailboats or yachts:<br>

"<em>If you have to ask the cost, you caqn't afford it"</em> is one.<br>

<em>"A yacht is a hole in the waer into which one pours money."</em> is another.</p>

<p>To a lesser extent this is true of LF photography. Probably the cheapest way to slide into 8x10 format is one of the pinhole cameras offered on e-bay. The next step up would be an older used camera, Burk & James, Ansco or a Kodak 2D. </p>

<p>Best wishes in this.</p>

 

[john_robison3]

<p>First question.<br /> Why 8X10<br /> I would define my reasons for a desire for a camera this size.<br /> Look at the extended cost, are you going to shoot B&W or color negative or both? For 8X10 B&W runs a minimum of $3 a sheet, color neg is about $14 a sheet.<br /> Who will do the processing? How much will that cost?</p>

<p>Even if some generous soul gave you a camera, then to shoot and process 10 sheets of color would run about $200, have you budgeted for that?<br>

Oh, by the way, even used 8X10 film holders are expensive.</p>

<p>You could always try 8X10 B&W paper negatives in a pinhole box camera and then contact print the result. That would be the cheapest way to shoot 8X10 and you could load, unload and process under safe light. If you don't have any darkroom equipment already then to set up for that would still run about $200 but after set up the per image cost could be as low as $2 a shot (that is of course for B&W only).</p>

[bruce_jones5]

<p>Look to 5x7. Film, holders, processing a lot less expensive and there are even old 5x7 cased cameras that are workable. Will make a nice contact print or can be scanned. I have used a Seneca 5x7 camera with a wonderful Gundlach lens. You will have rise and fall, which is enough to get started in landscape, even portrait work.</p>

[paul_brenner1]

<p>I agree with everyone's comments. Very cheapest (maybe even less than making your own) is an 8x10 pinhole. Pinhole is fun and a great means of expression.<br>

One thing people haven't mentioned to save money (once you have the camera): Paper negs. Speed runs about 3-6. Long exposures but no reciprocity. Obviously you can load and develop with a safelight.<br>

Best developer is film developer highly diluted (such as HC-110 1:62 from syrup as a starting point).<br>

<br />Best,<br>

<br />Paul</p>

[henry_finley1]

<p>I am the OP. A man just gave me an 8x10, just out of goodness of heart. I won't say whether that man came by internet, or by providence of meeting on the street. The internet doesn't need to be taken over by beggars, as it's already full enough of noise. Let's call it just plain common decency. But it did happen. I'm honored. It will be used in a good spirit. I post this to hopefully re-invigorate an old belief of mine that not only does a good turn deserve another, but actually inspires the spreading of good turns among others. This may not ever mean that the exact same 2 people will do this--it may be a third party unknown to both at the time. But indeed, a good turn will certainly be spread among good men. Thank you. HT Finley III</p>

[dan_melamed]

Ilford (Harden) has just come out with a new direct positive paper in 4x5 and 8x10. I haven't tried it yet but it sounds

interesting and might be less expensive than using film. Images would be reversed.

[henry_finley1]

<p>Well, just shot my first picture on this neat 8x10. All I have now is a Symmar 210. So I fashioned a lensboard, mounted it on and went out and shot the side of my house. I had some outdated Agfa print paper that I used for film, and I got something. Not much, but at least it's a start. Thank you.</p>

[User_6502147]

<p>Henry, it appears you're getting streaks from processing (?). Yes, nice start. Anyway, check into places that still sell X-ray film. It's nowhere as expensive as Ilford or color....and you can play and practice with it. Naturally, it's not great for everything, but..... Enjoy.</p>

<p>Les</p>

[john_kasaian4]

<p>Don't put an 8x10 on a Tilt-all. 4x5 Yes 8x10 No.</p>

[jon_grepstad1]

<p>Please note that in October 2015 my webpages on building large format cameras move to: jongrepstad.com</p>

<p>Jon Grepstad</p>