Lauvau Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>Hi all,<br>I search a Polarizing Filter for Canon 17-40 F4 L USM, used on a full-frame 5DII. To be more precise, I make real estate photography and I would like reduce reflections in the windows to have a cleaner HDR files.<br>I read that I need a filter 'slim' and also a filter 'circular', to avoid vignetting and buggs of AF. I found in B+W <a href="https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=989&IID=3925">this one</a> who seems great. Is this a good choice?<br>Any advice will be really appreciated.<br>Bests,</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_e Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>Yes.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauvau Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>okay, thanks. And when the filter is positioned on the device. The camera automatically calculates the loss of light due to the filter (Filter Factor, I think), or should it be done manually?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stp Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>The camera's light meter will do it automatically. Put your hand in front of the lens, and you will see the meter react as if there is little or no light coming through. Same is true with a filter -- the camera's meter will react to the amount of light that is actually coming through the filter.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sattler123 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>I find that using a Polarizing Filter with my 17-40 on FF gives me a lot of vignetting and uneven hues - at least when shooting blue skies. It might make your HDR files even more difficult to work with.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_henderson Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>If you are using an auto setting the camera will calculate exposure with the filter automatically. If you are using manual then the metering will show that the picture is undeexposed a stop or two and you'll need to make a manual adjustment.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauvau Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>Are you experiencing difficulties in working with a Polarizing Filter in HDR? It complicates the work of the color? Because for real estate photography I see no other solution for decrease reflections. Any tips ?<br /> <br />For example, in attached files, this is a photo I made in HDR without Polarizing Filter, you will see reflections of the lamps, a filter was necessary in this case, right? <br> <img src="http://s4.postimage.org/8ay2sv1lp/IMG_4.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="454" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_pierlot Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <blockquote> <p>I find that using a Polarizing Filter with my 17-40 on FF gives me a lot of vignetting and uneven hues - at least when shooting blue skies.</p> </blockquote> <p>I believe that this effect becomes more pronounced at 20mm and wider.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Katz Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 The problem with uneven hues shows up on wide angle images when using a polarizing filter for exterior landscapes with lots of blue sky. Actually much less of a problem when shooting landscapes with the camera held vertically. I don't see any such issue with your application and it seems like the right tool to use. Agreed that a standard polarizing filter will vignette with a 17-40, and that you need a slim filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PuppyDigs Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>I use a Hoya Pro 1 polarizer on my 17-40 and there is no vignetting on my 5D2. Uneven blue skies are not a result of vignetting (blockage of the edges of the frame), but is a result of the sun's position. Polarization is strongest at 90 degrees to the sun's position and zip with your back to the sun. Subjects in between these two position will receive varying amounts of polarization, hence a gradient look for big sky photos shot with UW. However, realize the sky isn't perfectly even and naturally has differing hues and a bit of gradient. You can change your position and/or dial down polarization but sometimes you just need to take the darn thing off.</p> <p>I don't have any hue or gradient problems using a polarizer to remove reflection from water, rocks, leaves, windows, etc. The only non-sky subject that a polarizer seems to ruin are human faces. Apparently it transforms the living into the undead...</p> Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see. - Robert Hunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Katz Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 My standard Tiffen polarizer worked fine on a 20-35, but vignettes at anything wider than 19mm on the 17-40, but your mileage may vary. Peter's explanation on polarization is of course dead accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mendel_leisk Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>I got the slim B+W polarizer, and have used it on my 17-40. But I've also used a regular thickness Granduated Neutral Density filter (B+W again, and similar construction, likely the same thickness as their polarizer) on the same lens, with no vignetting. The B+W filter slim versions lack front threads (won't hold a regular lens cap) and are more expensive.</p> <p>If you're purchasing in a store, see if you can try the reg thickness version. Do test shots and review the corners. Don't just rely on the viewfinder to reveal vignette, it may not be showing the whole frame.</p> <p>I suspect you'll be ok with the regular thickness.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_henderson Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 <p>B+W filters are very good. But the one you link to is not at all well-priced, and you should - assuming you're in the USA- try B&H and see how much their 77mm B+W polarisers are . I think you'd save so much money that you'd be tempted by the multi-resistant coating (MRC) version which is better than the version you link to. I use these filters and I have a 17-40 and 5Dii, though I can't absolutely promise that I've used it right at 17mm. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norfolk_nsfw_maybee Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 <p>I bought a Marumi based upon this test;</p> <p>http://www.lenstip.com/115.23-article-Polarizing_filters_test_Marumi_DHG_Circular_P.L.D_72_mm.html</p> <p>I am happy.</p> <p>You can find anything you want at that site, regarding polarizers.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauvau Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 <p>I just bought the 77mm filter, slim in a specialty store in Paris. No vignetting at 17mm. When the filter is set, the anti-reflection coating is truly impressive. No problem of color HDR.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffm Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 <p>Laurent, thanks for coming back and telling us the results. Not everyone does, and it's much appreciated when they do.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tudor_apmadoc Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 <p>It didn't look like the filter you gave the link to had any coatings....</p> <p>Check out : http://www.hoyafilter.com/hoya/products/pro1digitalfilterseries/pro1dcircularpl/</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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