Stained Negatives

[m_k31]

<p>can anybody tell me what causes this? there is a long stain that runs the length of the roll on the emulsion side only. i've been processing my own film for the last year and this is the first time i've had this happen. i had three rolls in the tank and and they all turned out this way. i looks like water streaks but it isn't.<br>

<img src="http://payload79.cargocollective.com/1/2/83304/3893566/DeadHorseBay_05.12_R2_F008_tempweb_2048.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="574" /></p>

<p>this one has the same streaked stains and two large dark areas in the sky.<br>

<img src="http://payload79.cargocollective.com/1/2/83304/3893566/DeadHorseBay_05.12_R2_F005_tempweb_2048.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="571" /></p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>What type of tank?<br>

Inversion or rotary processing?<br>

Which direction was the image scanned, top to bottom or side to side?<br>

Dark areas in light tones: uneven developing due to agitation technique not working with the film/developer/tank combination the most likely cause. Uneven tones in clear sky only can be caused by smog/haze.<br>

Streaks: caused by agitation technique and or developer level in the tank, or image path of the scanner needing cleaning. <br>

Do the streaks appear between frames?</p>

<p>Both images posted appear under developed but could be caused by edge of film tricking the scanner's auto exposure setting.</p>

 

[James G. Dainis]

Is that black and white slide film? From the square format I assume it is 120 film in a 6x6 medium format camera.

[m_k31]

<p>tmax film and developer. paterson plastic tank. i agitate 10 sec for every min by tilting the tank back and forth 90 degrees in each direction but don't fully invert the tank 180 degrees. streaks are between frames. definitely on the negative, not a scanning issue. definitely enough developer in the tank.</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>I’m betting this is due to exhausted or diluted fix. Prepare a fresh fix solution and re-fix. If the stain goes away, I was right.</p>

[zensphoto]

<p>I would try the full 180 turns. If you rotate and not invert I have had that problem with 120/220 film. Did you have any odd temperature changes during development. Maybe you started out to cool? Could really just be exhausted chemicals. <br /> It does say on <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j86/j86.pdf">page 3</a> to do a full 180 while you do your inversions.</p>

<p>The streak that I have come across is usually on the emulsions side. Not to say something can't scratch the other side or damage the other side.</p>

[zensphoto]

<p>Actually now that I really look at this negative, it kind of doesn't look like you developed it long enough or you fixer is weak. How long did you develop this roll of film for and how long did you fix it? </p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>I copied both sample images to my computer then opened them in PS7 and checked the levels. Both images start at black and end at mid gray with image detail. Top image 153, bottom image 160. They should be 200-255 for a properly processed image. (image-adjustments-levels)<br>

Alan is probably correct about under fixed. <br>

If the developer is being reused it is weak or the additional time for the number of rolls processed was incorrect. When reusing developer add the additional time for the number of rolls processed that this session will put the developer into when the development is finished. The dark areas in the sky are from uneven development, and once the levels have been adjusted they are in both images and throughout the scenes but are harder to see in the beach details. </p>

<p>The only thing I can think of at the moment that could cause the streaks on all the rolls is the chemical flow across the edge of the reel.</p>

<div></div>

[m_k31]

<p>Thanks for all the responses. The developer is fresh, not reused. The<br />film is developed for the Kodak recommended length of time (400asa<br />tmax for 6 1/2 min at 72 degrees in tmax developer) and has good<br />density and contrast. The neg looks very dark and flat in the examples<br />due to my scanning workflow which is to do a straight scan without<br />setting black and white levels in the scan software. I 'process' the<br />image and do all adjustments after the image is scanned. So what you<br />see is the 'middle gray', pre-adjustment scan.<br>

The fixer is a new mix and I processed a few rolls of 35mm from the<br />batch last week with no problems so I doubt that is the culprit.<br />However i discovered my fixer remover is quite old and maybe exhausted<br />as is my photo flo, which is expired. Could these be factors in these<br />negs? When I squeegeed off the excess water before hanging to dry it<br />was a bit dark gray in color as if some chemicals weren't fully rinsed<br />or something. I've never seen that before.<br>

I suspect my agitation technique needs improvement during development.<br />Does this uneven development mean I need more, and maybe more<br />vigorous, agitation?</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>Re-fix - you won't regret this acion.<br>

Fixer remover is not the problem. Nither is old PhotoFlow.<br>

Re-Fix - Re-fix</p>

 

[zensphoto]

<p>I am interested in what they look like after you do a re-fix as Alan suggests.</p>

<p>About the agitation, try the 180 degrees turn, and don't turn it to fast like you were shaking up a can of whipped cream, more smoother rotations and see if that helps. I don't develop my film by the directions recommended by Kodak I use a slightly different method with my processing. Which you can see <a href="http://imagepro.photography.com/index?site_id=7940&page_id=182841&preview=true">here</a> on the left side of the screen of my Image pro site. I don't get those streaks anymore. Might be something to try. What works for me may not be what works for you, so just keep that in mind.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p><a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j86/j86.pdf">Kodak Tech Pub J86</a> shows on page 9 that for rolls 1 through 16 to use normal time, 17 through 32 to add 1 minute, 33 through 48 add 2 minutes to the normal time. Now if by a few rolls and the 3 problem rolls the total number of rolls processed is less than 17 the additional time is not a concern.<br>

Re fix as it will correct a lot of errors even if fixing was not the problem. Put the squeegee away and forget about it. It could be the cause of the streaks. Photoflo will cause the water to run off the film leaving no streaks or water marks. Let the film soak in the photoflo for a minute then remove and drain off the excess water before unrolling the film from the reel. I shake mine with the reel at a 45° angle to the sink after draining.<br>

Agitation varies from tank and reel combination. What will work with one may not work with another. Kodak and Ilford techniques work with most 2 35mm reel tanks and reels made. Uneven development is caused by the developer moving more in one area more than it does in another. Rotary processing in one direction results in streaks. You man need to make your agitation movements more vigorous or increase their number.</p>

[bethe_fisher]

<p>TMax needs longer fixing times, too. You didn't mention how long you fixed initially, but it needs 5-8 minutes in rapid fix (not sure how long in regular fix). Re-fix, re-wash, add a few drops of photo-flo at the end of the wash, don't squeegee. What color are the negs? If they have the slightest bit of purple tinge to them, then they're definitely underfixed. </p>