Heavy Orange mask elimanation

[Bill Bowes]

<p>Hello. Given a small box of some-what outdated, 135-36 C-41 films, I just had to try shooting and developing a roll in B/W chemisty. My method: 4.0ml Rodinol in 450ml Nikor, 60min semi stand, fix and dry. Inspection with point source backlight reveals excellent exposure in camera.<br>

My question: does anyone have a practical method to reduce the intense orange/brown mask on the film to the levels seen on C-41 processed negs?<br>

Thanks, Bill</p>

[larrydressler]

<p> I tried a few different methods and most just removed the image from the film and left the base.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>The reason the orange mask is so much stronger is that you also still have the yellow filter layer that was between the top blue-sensitive emulsion and the other layers. It is made of "Cary Lea Silver", which is very fine particles of metallic silver that serve as a yellow mask. Normal C-41 processing bleaches that out.<br>

You would have to go through some process with a bleach step, such as C-41, E-6, or B&W reversal.<br>

I'd say use the cheapest commercial C-41 processing that doesn't leave the negatives scratched or dirty.</p>

[Bill Bowes]

<p>Hello again. Thanks for the info John, Larry. I have been futzing with the film for the last few hours. A "very aged" bottle of sepia toning bleach was used in daylight, on several frames and did lower the level dramatically, although not to a commercail c-41 neg level. Some loss of shadow detail was noted with the small frames, so the next bleach test was done inside the Nikor tank. 30 min followed by re-fixing. Same level of mask reduction, but without noticeable detail loss. I am now trying 45min of bleaching and refix to see what occurs.<br>

This entire "exercise" is for brain storage! I have used C-41 with XP-2 off/on for years but think the time/money involved is a wash. I'll stick with my Rodinal or Coffenol for now. Bill</p>

[Bill Bowes]

<p>The last time for my Merlinesqe adventures with this post: 45min bleach/refix shows very little difference in the mask, but I did notice that the image is again starting to bleach out. An aside test with 10% common household bleach yields some very clear acetate!, must be one of Larry's "didthatdontdothat" things he mentioned! So let's say I will only do all this again if it is a dire emergency and no C-41 processing is available ANYWHERE! The remaining film now goes to a local Goth teen. Let the world beware. Enjoy, Bill</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>I don't say that too often. Most people know me and if I do say it it means that I have used the 10 household items and then some. :-)</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Since both the Cary Lea Silver and the image are metallic silver in this case, you can't bleach one without bleaching the other. Of course, in a C-41 or E-6 process, there is no silver left in the film.<br>

In reversal processing, the metallic silver left by the first development and the Cary Lea silver will be removed, and the remaining undeveloped silver halide remains a halide, is exposed, and developed. Then you fix out any remaining silver halide. So in that way, you would have a fairly pure B&W positive. But it's an expensive process -- good bleaches are pricey.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Doh.</p>

[michael_madio]

<p>Just scan it and don't worry about the mask.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Depends on the Software and Scanner if you follow the above advice.</p>