Film Processors

[andrew_west5]

<p>I'm making a move back to film/traditional/analog/luddite photography. I have a choice between a poorly-ventilated, temporary bathroom darkroom and a poorly-ventilated, semi-permanent darkroom without access to running water. </p>

<p>I've never processed my own film before, much less setup a darkroom. It isn't difficult to Google the necessities, but I was curious if a processor, a Jobo if I can get lucky on eBay or at a garage sale, would be a good way to go. </p>

<p>If it is, and it seems that way, are the Jobo processors the only way to go for a home darkroom? I haven't been able to find anything else that wouldn't be complete overkill for my needs, but it seems unlikely—not impossible, though—that it all comes down to one company. I do intend to do my own printing, so I'm looking for something that I can use at both stages.</p>

<p>Any help would be much appreciated. Search engines are great and all, but there comes a point where it's just easier and more reliable to ask someone with experience. </p>

 

[willis]

<p>Hi Andrew</p>

<p>Any help I can give you I will be glad to.</p>

<p>I retired from the News-Press a while ago.</p>

<p>I started as a news Photog in 1960.</p>

<p>I moved from News photo to prepress when I saw where the money was.</p>

<p>Start with the "bathroom darkroom."</p>

<p>It is necessary to have running water.</p>

<p>I did just monocrome photography at home.</p>

<p>If you do b/w you will need D76, Decktol, fixer and stop bath.</p>

<p>Definately you will need a Quality Enlarger.</p>

<p>If you are going to process glossey prints, you will need a set of ferotype plates and squeagy (sp).</p>

<p>Any other tips I can give you I 'll be glad to pass on.</p>

<p>I still have a few books on the subject.</p>

<p>Email me and maybe we can get together.</p>

<p>BTW I enjoy your nature pictures in the News-Press.</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>excellent advice. notice he directed you towards simplocity..<br>

the first mountain you will have to climb is loading 35mm film on the reel<br>

after that being consistent with time temperature and<br>

proper dilution. Most people today prefer using developer as a one shot and discarding it after one use.<br>

the fixer can be reused.<br>

keep the paper and film fixer separate.<br>

It is im[portant to work to correctly process the film.<br>

the prints can be done over.<br>

Wet proces prints are best, but unbtil you have an enlarger, you can scan negatives.<br>

- epson sells refurbs on their web site that can handle slides and negatives.<br>

then let the machine at a big box store print the digital images<br>

it may eb actually cheaper to do it this way.<br>

keep you eyes open for a used enlarger on craigs list "pickup only":<br>

on ebay or from a old camera store.<br>

pick a brand that you can get parts for unless it is very cheap.<br>

many folks started out years ago with a adult photo course at a local high scool ask around evenb advertise im supermarkets<br>

remeber these things are not made of GOLD.<br>

do not expect to pay a lot.<br>

in other words start slowly and do not jump in with both feet.<br>

the only thinsg a differ from the previous poster<br>

is the use of d-76. I like it and often use it<br>

but hc-110 the syrup lasts a very long time<br>

Kodak has silly instructions.<br>

go here<br>

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/<br>

it is much simpler<br>

there are methods to measure d-76 powder with spoons<br>

but people here do not subscribe to this method.<br>

the sad and good thing is any kind or resulkts work<br>

'but be careful and consistent for top quality results.<br>

c041 processing at home is possible but I do not believe it is cost effective.</p>

[willis]

<p>As an added note: We used D76 straight because of the time element in the newspaper business.<br />We used TriX 400 so quality wasn't priority.</p>

<p>D76 1:1 is prefered as a 1 shot delevoper.</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>It totally depends on the size film (if that's what you're talking about, and not paper) you need to process. For the cost, it's probably overkill, and I would stick with a Paterson, or stainless (my preference) reels and tanks, if dealing with other than 4x5 film or larger.</p>

<p>I'd opt for better ventilation. Water is not crucial. I do all my film development in my kitchen, but is is large enough to let me do it pretty easily. My darkroom is in my basement, and I run prints up to my bathtub for rinsing, toning, and drying. If you're organized, it shouldn't be a problem. Definitely get a good book on building and using darkroom equipment. Even the old books, like Ansel Adams' The Negative and The Print, are excellent sources still. They are among the best and most comprehensive books on the subject.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Jobo and other processors like that are nice if you are doing color. They are pretty much standard for color prints, which are usualy developed in a tube, and are helpful for developing color film beause of the consistent agitation. For B&W, they are overkill. Standard for B&W film is a stainless steel reel and tank, though some people like plastic. For prints, trays are standard.</p>

[andrew_west5]

<p>I appreciate all of the advice so far.</p>

<p>Willis, I'll send an email your way. Not that it really matters, but I think you have me confused for another Andrew West. As far as I know, I haven't had any nature photos published in the press.</p>

<p>I do plan on processing and printing color once I'm comfortable with B&W, and I would really like to get into large format work in the somewhat near future. I figured a darkroom based around a Jobo or something like it should best be able to handle all of that. I try to avoid buying anything that I would just want to upgrade or replace later on. I know that isn't always an option, but it does save money in the long run. Anyway, I'm not trying to counter anyone's advice here, just sharing my line of thinking.</p>

<p> </p>