Anyone have experience with this type reel?

[traveler_101]

<p>Taking a trip to New York soon and thought, if I have time, I'd like to to stop at B & H to pick up developing equipment. This will be my first foray into this aspect of photography: I have absolutely no experience. Reading this board it seems to me that the key piece of equipment is the reel: the issues are ease of loading (suggesting plastic) and avoiding chemical build-up (suggesting stainless steel). The Hewes reel seems to combine the best of both. Anyone familiar with it? <br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/714526-REG/Hewes_EKC009_35mm_Stainless_Steel_Developing.html</p>

 

[giverin]

<p>The image in your link looks just like a standard steel reel to me. I'm relatively inexperienced in film developing (just under 3 years) and I still use plastic reels. I use them for 35mm and 120 roll and I don't have many problems with them. I give them a clean with an old toothbrush now and again. I've managed to pick up several different sized tanks and quite a few reels from ebay so while its all working well, I don't feel inclined to change.</p>

<p>The steel reels will be trickier to load initially but after a few rolls I'm sure you will be just as profficient with them as you would be with plastic ones. Good luck with your first few rolls. In my own experience, your biggest enemy will be dust and water marks on your drying negs. Read up on how to eliminate that.</p>

[jean_yves_mead]

The photo is not of a Hewes 35mm reel. The Hewes reel has a couple of pegs at the centre that hook into sprocket holes on either side of the film, rather than the spring clip shown, thus ensuring that the film is aligned correctly and held securely. They are very easy to use.

 

As to whether they're better than plastic reels... that's more down to personal preferences. As long as plastic reels are kept clean and dry, they work fine.

[jakenorcross]

<p>I was taught on SS reels but have used plastic ever since. I find that the plastic ones are easier to load in a changing bag (eliminating the need for a darkroom to load the tank) and save space (since you can use the same reels for 35mm, 120, and 127 if you're shooting that ever). The major difference is that the SS reels load center-out, which meant for me it always was easier to kink the film or stick it to itself (creating "oatmeal" and ruining many a roll for me) whereas the plastic ones load outside-in, by means of a ratcheting action. So for me, plastic reels are better but be warned: they need to be absolutely dry, or else they don't work.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>The stainless steel reels, especially Hewes, are a lifetime investment. They have less spokes, so the developer can move more uniformly during agitation. They are very durable, don't have little springs and balls that wear out or jam, and are unbreakable. Residue of wetting agent (e.g. Photo Flo) doesn't build up on them.<br>

But they are not un-bendable. Drop them and they won't work right. A bent reel is useless. (Note that cheap Chinese 35mm stainless steel reels may well come pre-bent from the factory.)<br>

There is a learning curve. But it's no harder than learning to ride a bike, once you memorize the feel of doing it right, you can do it very swiftly in a changing bag.<br>

You can use them in the stainless tanks with plastic lids. They don't leak, but can be hard to open. But the plastic lid can split (and let in light) without warning.<br>

Or, you can buy a used Nikor tank on eBay. You want the "Quick Fill" type with a concentric ring under the top cap. Ideally you want a tank, lid, and cap that were mated at the factory, there was a certain amount of "select to fit". But, they inevitably will dribble a bit.</p>

 

[traveler_101]

<p>"The Hewes reel has a couple of pegs at the centre that hook into sprocket holes on either side of the film, rather than the spring clip shown, thus ensuring that the film is aligned correctly and held securely."<br>

This sounds reassuring. What I was hoping for . . . on the other hand . . .</p>

[traveler_101]

<p>. . . "I was taught on SS reels but have used plastic ever since. I find that the plastic ones are easier to load in a changing bag (eliminating the need for a darkroom to load the tank) and save space (since you can use the same reels for 35mm, 120, and 127 if you're shooting that ever). The major difference is that the SS reels load center-out, which meant for me it always was easier to kink the film or stick it to itself (creating "oatmeal" and ruining many a roll for me) whereas the plastic ones load outside-in, by means of a ratcheting action."</p>

<p>Sometimes I wonder whether I am being too ambitious/unrealistic in trying to do this without any training. Your post reinforces those doubts. It also suggests if I am going to proceed I should acquire the absolutely easiest tank/reel with which to work. Am I right? Any ideas what that would be?<br>

Do you suggest a changing bag? I was planning to use a big walk-in closet where I have a desk and chair and can sit comfortably and work--after blocking out the door with towels etc. I thought this would be easier than the changing bag.</p>

[traveler_101]

<p>"The stainless steel reels, especially Hewes, are a lifetime investment. They have less spokes, so the developer can move more uniformly during agitation. They are very durable, don't have little springs and balls that wear out or jam, and are unbreakable. Residue of wetting agent (e.g. Photo Flo) doesn't build up on them."</p>

<p>All sounds good. The price is high, but if I get them on my trip to NY , they cost no more than cheap ones are in my adopted country.</p>

<p>"But they are not un-bendable. Drop them and they won't work right"<br>

Ok.</p>

<p>"There is a learning curve. But it's no harder than learning to ride a bike, once you memorize the feel of doing it right, you can do it very swiftly in a changing bag."</p>

<p>I think I remember I had my father was there to encourage my bike riding (lol). Are the plastic ones easier? Is the changing bag easier?<br>

<br />"You can use them in the stainless tanks with plastic lids. They don't leak, but can be hard to open. But the plastic lid can split (and let in light) without warning."</p>

<p>What about this Samigon tank?<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122982-REG/Samigon_ESA345_Stainless_Steel_Tank_with.html</p>

<p>"Or, you can buy a used Nikor tank on eBay."<br>

Hard to get purchases past customs here unless it is very low priced. I can check that out.</p>

[AJG]

<p>I have been teaching a beginning photography class for 12 years at the local community college and my observations are these: It is a little harder to learn how to load stainless steel reels than it is the plastic ones (we have Patterson). I have also found that once my students get the hang of loading the steel reels ( we use the Hewes reels which I highly recommend) they rarely have any more processing issues for the rest of the semester, whereas students using the plastic tanks tend to have more streaks and other processing gremlins show up later on. One other point--if you are buying your own chemistry the steel tanks use 8 ounces per 35 mm reel while the Patterson plastic tanks/reels require 11 ounces. If you develop a lot of film, the difference will add up.</p>

[frank_skomial]

<p>The picture says: "Actual apperance will vary", so what is the point of guessing.<br>

The picture actually shows reel for medium format film, e.g. 120 type, of 60mm wide, and not very long. ( 8 of 6x9, 10 of 6x7, 12 of 6x6, 16 of 6x4.5 etc.)<br>

If you order a reel for 35mm, it will be less tall, and have more rounds to fit longer 135 film.</p>

<p>For professional photographers, there were reel film loaders.<br>

I used Made in Japan, "35mm .120 Prinz Film Loader" model 260-43. for fool proof film loading with reels like one shown on the picture.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<blockquote>

<p>"Residue of wetting agent (e.g. Photo Flo) doesn't build up on them."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The Myth That Wouldn't Die - tonight on Elvira's <em>Darkroom Movie Macabre... arrrggghhh..</em>.</p>

<p>Seriously, it's just a surfactant, a wetting agent. It rinses off in plain water more readily than Dawn dish washing liquid, since Photo-Flo and similar products don't contain dyes, perfumes, oils, etc.</p>

<p>If plastic reels get gummy, it's something else: buildup from darkroom chemicals or film emulsion residue from developing itself; darkroom chemicals interacting with the water supply, like lime scale (very common problem with the well water in my former rural home); even plastics breaking down from ozone generated by some faulty household doodads - or properly working ozone air cleaners. But it's not the photographic wetting agent.</p>

<p>When my plastic reels began accumulating a few stains it was just normal silver sludge sticking to the nearly imperceptible lime scale from my rural well water. I'd gotten into the habit of using plain water as the intermediate step rather than a stop bath, mostly because I was using Diafine so often. Going back to a stop bath when using developers other than Diafine - or just rinsing the tanks and reels later in water and distilled white vinegar - cleared it up. I also used distilled or filtered water instead of tap water, since the lime scale was such a problem where I used to live. With my current city water it's less a problem, but there's still some crust that needs to be cleaned off appliances that are often wet, such as a coffeemaker.</p>

[john_robison3]

<p>Been using the same Nikor SS tanks and reels for 40 years. Once you learn to load them steel reels are just fine. Just be careful not to drop the reels and bend them.</p>

[mjferron]

<p>I started with plastic and moved on to Hewes reels. Haven't looked back. Even with a Hewes120 is a bit of a pain to get started. The 35mm Hewes with the pegs to catch the sprocket holes is a dream.</p>

[seandepuydt]

Hewes are the way to go. 35mm ss reels are easiers to load than the 120 - which are much easier than the plastic. Don't

buy cheap reels. I ended up throwing 2 120 ss reels in the trash due to continued problems I had loading them.

[david_wilson22]

<p>My daughter is taking a creative photo course at the state university, a 2 reel tank was on the supplies list.<br>

35 years ago I had graduated to Stainless Steel Reels, primarily since I was running E4 (Actually did one batch of E3) which required +/- 1/2 degree temperature control<br>

The retailed offered a cheap stainless tank and reels (note they also sell the Hewes, the reels we purchased for the 2 reel kit are 25% of the price of the Hewes you are looking clearly "Cheap Knock Offs")<br>

During the practice session on loading film, she was the only one with stainless reels and a tank. <br>

Fortunately she had not soiled the reels or tank with chemicals, and we had retained the packaging, we were able to exchange for the plastic reels (BTW the quality of those has improved dramatically in the last 35 years)<br>

Withe the help of a changing bag she was able to successfully load the plastic ratcheting reels and process the first two rolls yesterday.<br>

Unless you are trying to match to a tank you already have I would suggest going with current technology plastic</p>

<p> </p>

[david_wilson22]

<p>My daughter is taking a creative photo course at the state university, a 2 reel tank was on the supplies list.<br>

35 years ago I had graduated to Stainless Steel Reels, primarily since I was running E4 (Actually did one batch of E3) which required +/- 1/2 degree temperature control<br>

The retailed offered a cheap stainless tank and reels (note they also sell the Hewes, the reels we purchased for the 2 reel kit are 25% of the price of the Hewes you are looking clearly "Cheap Knock Offs")<br>

During the practice session on loading film, she was the only one with stainless reels and a tank. <br>

Fortunately she had not soiled the reels or tank with chemicals, and we had retained the packaging, we were able to exchange for the plastic reels (BTW the quality of those has improved dramatically in the last 35 years)<br>

Withe the help of a changing bag she was able to successfully load the plastic ratcheting reels and process the first two rolls yesterday.<br>

Unless you are trying to match to a tank you already have I would suggest going with current technology plastic</p>

<p> </p>

[fotch]

First and foremost, you will find that a quality metal or plastic reel a worthwhile investment. I prefer SS because is will always load, plastic can be problems, especially in humid weather or if any moisture is on them from previous use. However, when I do color and use my Jobo, I have to use plastic and will say, the Jobo work better than other plastic that I have used. If processing manually, I always use SS. JMHO

[cj8281]

<p>I use an old set of Nikor tanks and reels. I do have an older Nikor tank that is the 70/30 split type that does pour in/out slower than the quick pour type. The stainless tank with stainless lids do dribble a bit. I don't find it to be a problem as I usually agitate over my sink. I especially like that the stainless tanks use only 8 ounces (for 35mm) of chemistry over the Paterson's 11 ounces. A gallon of D76 mixed 1:1 will yield 32 rolls developed in a stainless tank, were as the Paterson will only yield 23 with the same gallon.<br>

There is a learning curve with stainless reels but once learned there is usually very little to go wrong. I have had to resort to a Paterson reel because I had a roll that would not load because of damage to the edge of the film.</p>

[traveler_101]

<p>Thanks everyone for your contributions of time and wisdom. To sum up: most respondents have endorsed the stainless steel reels and many have had high praise for Hewes reels in particular. I realize that at least two of you warned against trying with stainless reels the first time out, but I had to weigh that advice against statements about other problems that occur with the plastic reels, e.g. streaking and spotting. In this matter Andrew Gillis's advice weighed heavily in my mind: twelve years teaching experience counts for something. The Hewes stainless reel is the way I will go--along with a steel tank with, I suppose, a plastic lid to reduce leakage. If I can't manage to learn after a few days practice, I will either sell the equipment and fall back to plastic or find a course somewhere to take. Thanks again.</p>

[jim_jones3]

<p>Mark: over a few decades I've loaded a few thousand rolls of 35mm film on SS reels much like the 35mm reel you linked to. However, I'd remove that spring clip that secures the end of the film to the core. Using it demands that the film be accurately centered between the flanges. If not centered, the film will kink. The end of the film will usually stay hooked to the core without that spring if you bend it over a time or two, and it usually centers itself. A Hewes (which I've never used) should be even better. The advantages of using SS reels in preference to plastic ones is overwhelming with experience. Don't drop them, though. If you do, they can be straightened out, which is more difficult to do well than immediately apparent. SS tanks with plastic lids work well enough for me. The SS lids have to match the tanks or they give problems.</p>

[denniswms]

<p>It won't take a few days. Practice loading in the light. When you have it wired practice with your eyes closed- then practice in the dark. You'll have it in no time. I load sitting exactly the same way every time, I know where to throw the trash in the dark - to start over if I mess up without going nuts and I use the clips.</p>

<p>I've used the stainless steel 120 reels for twenty years. And again tomorrow. The E-6 is farmed out but the B&W is still me. </p>

[ian_gordon_bilson]

<p>After 40 some years of loading film : an unbent s/s reel gives a little thrill as the film glides into place..it makes a tiny whispering sound as the film is 'swallowed' by the guides. Talking 35mm. You will feel a sense of satisfaction.<br>

Unless it goes "plick" ..the sound of your film jumping a groove. Which you will discover after processing. And with 120 rollfilm,the action of gently bending the film,with its greater area,and thin base, increases the risk of kink marks hugely.<br>

My Jobo plastic reels load any format perfectly,every time. Pattersons second best (if you check the ball bearings are free). I keep my s/s stuff for backup only. That said,a Patterson tank will shatter if you drop it.<br>

Results : plastic every time. Classy,with increased risk : good quality metal.</p>

 

[traveler_101]

<p>Update:<br>

thanks to everyone for your advice, especially all of the steel reel users. However, I must report a surprising conclusion to the story. I was set on getting the Hewes reels on my trip to New York. The background to this is that prices in Norway where I live make many things too expensive for my limited means. That would include expensive gear. Anyway, I had very little time in New York so I headed right to B & H, even before checking in to the hotel! I was really "geared up." Well they had the Hewes reels alright, but no tank for them. My heart sunk. In the end, I was forced to buy a Patterson plastic kit. What a disappointment. I am hoping that it will work out. I also bought XTOL so I am saving screw cap wine bottles in which to store it and exposing as many rolls as possible before getting started.</p>