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C-41 Kits : bleach and fix vs blix


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<p>For practical purposes I have found no real difference in results. There are various technical reasons which suggest that a separate bleach and fix is best, but I guess it depends on the value you place on the negs remaining in perfect condition archivally . <br>

I've used the Tetanal kits on-and-off for about 25 years and not had any issues...they're been a reputable company for decades and I'm confident that the would not supply any products which were not fit-for-purpose.</p>

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<p>A combined bleach/fix works fine for paper where the silver levels are low. For the higher silver levels in film, the concentrations of the active ingredients need to be higher. There are several problems. The solution is thermodynamically unstable. There is an oxidizing (bleaching) agent, and a component (hypo, the fixing agent) that can easily be oxidized. In order to get the best bleaching and prevent cyan leuco dye, the bleaching agent needs to be fully oxidized. Aeration or anything else you could do to fully oxidize the bleaching agent will accelerate the decomposition of the fixing agent. When this happens, solid sulfur precipitates from the solution. It is a mess to clean up.</p>

<p>A combined bleach/fix solution when freshly mixed and used as a one shot solution will work. but separate solutions will provide much better solution stability and reliability.</p>

<p>FWIW, "Blix" is a trademarked term. Since the company I used to work for didn't own the trademark, I got used to using the generic "Bleach/fix" description. </p>

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