Looking for a smallish light-weight technical view camera

[paul_ong1]

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I am looking for a smallish, light-weight technical view camera for a future project. I have completed a project where I have added a digital camera to the back of a Toyo 45G using Mamiya RB67 lenses. I have done this to learn technical control. The system works well, but it is large, cumbersome and heavy. (See link below if interested in seeing the setup.)</p>

<p>So, I am now looking to do something similar with a field camera. One possibility is the Horseman VH-R, a medium-format camera that has technical movements, removable back, and no internal mirror mechanism. However, I read on another forum that there may be alternatives to the VH-R. </p>

<p>I am starting to do some of my own search, but any assistance would be appreciated. Does anyone have any suggestions?</p>

<p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

[dhbebb]

<p>There's LOTS about this on photo.net already, but one possibility (not too expensive and very light in weight) is a Century Graphic:<br>

<a href="http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/century-graphic.html">http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/century-graphic.html</a><br>

The only drawback is that the lens panel was designed 50 years ago or more and some modern lenses are too big to fit.</p>

[kparratt]

<p>There are several members who mean well, but are hung up on old American stuff and will suggest nothing other than ... (forget it), as though designers in Europe have been wasting their time for 50 years.<br>

I want to suggest you start at the top, to see what has been designed and manufactured to meet modern demands such as yours, then later see what's available that you can afford, .. that is, prepared to pay, in relation to the seriousness of your work.<br>

Buying that old stuff will always entail compromises, and forever leave you wishing " ..if only "<br>

What would best meet the requirements of your project, is a 6x9 view/technical camera from Arca Swiss, Cambo or Linhof. I immediately think of the Linhof M 679, and before you start dusting off and repairing, modifying and finding adapters for something a half century old, look <a href="http://linhof.de/"><strong>HERE</strong></a>. Click on English at the top left.<br>

.... and see what the European professionals are using. Even if it will cost you more, you will never look back, just get on with the photography.</p><div></div>

[dhbebb]

<p><<There are several members who mean well, but are hung up on old American stuff and will suggest nothing other than ... (forget it), as though designers in Europe have been wasting their time for 50 years.>><br />Sorry I'm so stupid Kevin! I may be wrong, but Paul uses the word "project", which suggests to me that he is not a highly-paid professional and may prefer to spend $150 on a camera rather than $8000. Linhof cameras are superb, extremely precise and very durable but, in addition to their high cost, are certainly not lightweight.</p>

[friedemann_pistorius]

<p>I once had a nice Shirom 6x9 wood field camera, but this camera is really HARD to find. Pro: very small and light. Con: the whole camera had to be flipped 90 degrees to get vertical images. I didn't get used to it and sold it a few years later.</p>

<p>There is (was?) a Tachihara 6x9 camera. I played with one in a shop years ago and it was as nice as its 4x5 brother.<br /> Jim at mpex is very knowledgeable and will help you if you're interested.<br /> In contrary to what you may find out about these cameras: Shirom and Tachihara 6x9 cameras are NOT the same.</p>

<p>Also, a Nagaoka wood field camera exists in 6x9 format. I've seen one at the auction site one or two years ago, a real beauty. Sadly, I didn't manage to get it.</p>

<p>Ebony 6x9/2x3 cameras are available in different versions, but they're expensive.</p>

<p>If you're not hooked to folding cameras, consider a Plaubel Peco Junior camera (made in 6x9 and 4x5 versions). It's lightweight and solid. Old German stuff though...</p><div></div>

[paul_ong1]

<p>David, thank you very much. Your first post really got me started by searching for Crown Graphic, which then led me to a number of other possibilities. Also, you are right about the project part. Would like to keep cost down. For my last project using a 4x5, I started with the Toyo 45G, then bought a Cambo SCX, and finally a Horseman LE. I eventually went back to the Toyo. Good thing that I was able to resell what I did not need. Hopefully, I will be wiser in selecting a camera for the new project.</p>

<p>Kevin, good suggestion to look at the best. This will help me evaluate the various alternatives in terms of what features are present or missing. I am a big fan of Linhof, although never owned one. I did own a Cambo briefly and really appreciate the fine mechanical details. I am flexible in terms of make and country of origin. Will probably take me a couple of months before landing a camera.</p>

<p>Friedemann, thanks for useful information. The Plaubel Peco Junior looks like a beauty, and I am open to both a folding and smaller rail, with the operative word being smaller (and lighter). I have been using my current rig, but it is really hard to take into the field.</p>

[joseph_dickerson]

<p>Shen Hao also makes a 6x9 (non-folding) field camera. Check Badger Graphic Sales for details.<br>

JD</p>

[SteveH]

<p>Check out Canham cameras. http://www.canhamcameras.com/4x5.htm</p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

<p>Canham DLC or Arca-Swiss FC. </p>

[drew bedo]

<p>At the risk of becoming a well-meaning member, I would point out that View Camera Magazine printed a couple of articles on modifying one of the Speed Grafic cameras for both front swing and tilt. While this is not the high-end solution, it may suit your needs for a relativly light weight and relativly inexpensive "technical" camea.</p>

<p>My 4x5 Kit is based around a Zone VI, (the single extension Wista model). It is light weigh, has many (not all) movements, and is pretty to look at. </p>

<p>Keven is right though: First check out what the state-of-the-art is, decide what meets the requirements of your project,then figure out what you can afford.</p>

[bob_salomon]

<p>" Linhof cameras are superb, extremely precise and very durable but, in addition to their high cost, are certainly not lightweight."<br>

That picture of a camera on the Linhof web page is the Techno. That is the aluminum and carbon fiber field camera from Linhof. Guess you haven't held one.</p>

[dhbebb]

 

<p>" Linhof cameras are superb, extremely precise and very durable but, in addition to their high cost, are certainly not lightweight."<br /><<That picture of a camera on the Linhof web page is the Techno. That is the aluminum and carbon fiber field camera from Linhof. Guess you haven't held one.>><br>

You've got me there, Bob, I haven't, but I promise I will as soon as my Century Graphic wears out and I have $8500 to spend on a replacement!</p>

 

[dave_s]

<p>Bob's $8500 aluminum and carbon fiber camera weighs 1900g. My $100 plastic and stamped sheetmetal Century Graphic weighs 1160g. :>)</p>

<p>Paul, a '23' Century or Crown Graphic is a plausible solution, but the downside is they have minimal movements, and no movements at all at the camera back. They are excellent cameras for some purposes, but this may rule them out if your main intent is to use view camera movements. I believe the Horseman VH-R has the same limitations, but I've never used one.</p>

<p>A <a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/supergrp.htm">Super Graphic</a> may be a solution. They are metal Graphic 4 x 5 press cameras (no focal plane shutter) which have considerably more movements than earlier Graphics. They weigh 2.4kg, which is not really a lightweight, but it's only a pound more than Bob's Linhof Techno. You should have no trouble finding a Super Graphic for a few hundred dollars. </p>

[Two23]

<p>I hae a Shen Hao 4x5 field camera, and have been considering this accessory back to attach my D300. That would give me easy "polaroid" capability:<br>

<a href="https://www.badgergraphic.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=2859">https://www.badgergraphic.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=2859</a></p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[paul_ong1]

<p>Joseph, thanks for the tip on the 6x9 Shen Hao. I will do some investigation.<br>

Steve and Ellis, thanks for the info, and never knew about Canham. Looks interesting, but my goal is to move to a smaller than 4x5 platform.<br>

Drew, will have to find a copy View Camera Magazine. Will be interested in reading about their approach, but for this project, my preference is to not do much work in terms of adding movements to a camera. I will focus on an adapter for the digital camera and modified lens board for different lenses. Agree with both you and Keven, so I have started checking things out.<br>

Bob and David, the more I learn about the Linhof, the more I crave it, but my wife would kill me.<br>

David, my main intent is to have more portability than my current Toyo-Mamiya-Sony hybrid. I use that when I need full movements, but it is really hard to setup far from my car. Hence, my search for a smaller and lighter body. I have the 2x3 Century and Crown Graphic on my list.</p>

 

[paul_ong1]

<p>Kent, yes, it is should relatively easy to attach the D300 onto the Shen Hao. You can do that with the product you listed. There are cheaper versions on ebay, but they do not have shift movements. If your intent is perspective control, than shifting the front standard may be sufficient. Be sure that the D300's focal plane is aligned with the lens when there is no intended technical movement. I have notice that even a slight misalignment in the DSLR adapter throws off the focus plane. I use shims between the adapter and lens board to make fine alignments.</p>

<p>If you want a really inexpensive option and have a workshop, then you can make your own adapter. I went through three versions for my Toyo. First with some PVC pipes, which I like because it allows for easy rotation of any angle. Second uses a reverse macro mount with with two short extension tubes. Because of the pentaprism housing and hand grip, you will need to make sure that there is enough space between the adapter board and the camera. The positive thing about this approach is that the camera is well secured, although can only be rotated in 90 degree increments. The third and last iteration is with the Sony NEX. Using a Nikon DSLR limits room for technical movement because of the long flange-to-focal-plane distance and the additional distance to clear the DSLR. It is possible to get the NEX sensor really close to the adapter, leaving more room for technical movement. I have the NEX 5, and you can get even closer with the NEX 3. Plus, live-view focusing is a real plus.</p>

<p>Because your sensor will be 60+ cm behind the mounting board, you will have problems using shorter LF lenses. When using the Nikon DSLR adapter, I can use my 90mm Schneider, but extremely limited camera movement. Using MF retro-focus lenses solves this problem, and the Mamiya RB67 has one of the longest register distance. I have two approaches to mounting Mamiya lenses. The first is to strip off the lens mount and external barrels, leaving only the lens cells and aperture housing, which I then mount on a custom made lens board. This really reduces the weight, but I only do this with broken lenses. The second approach is a customized lens board with a Mamiya lens mount taken from a broken RB67. This allows me to mount intact Mamiya lenses, but that is a heavy configuration.</p>

<p>I should note and acknowledge that I found many of the basic ideas on the web, which is a great place to share information and knowledge. Many of the refinements are new. I have documented some of my iterations of the LF-MF-digital hybrid, but unfortunately not every change, particularly the middle stages. You can see my initial effort and current effort at:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9476880@N02/sets/72157621949266496/</p>

<p>Good luck, and look forward to seeing your results.</p>

[richard baznik]

<p>Ditto on the recommendation of the Canham DLC45. As for the Plaubel, I had a 4x5 version for several years and loved it -- for studio work only, however. Plaubels are like post-WWII Mercedes Benz sedans: beautifully designed, over-built, everlasting, and anything but lightweight.</p>

[allen_whittier]

<p>The Galvin is a nice full movement lightweight medium format view camera. I've seen these turned into short focal length cameras by shortening the bellows or replacing them with a homemade bag bellows, and changing the rear standard to a straight rather than jogged design. I have a Galvin and have always appreciated it's simple design and light weight.<br>

http://cgi.ebay.com/Galvin-2x3-View-Camera-Lens-Film-Holders-/260749008160?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item3cb5da1d20</p>

[friedemann_pistorius]

<p>The all metal monorail Plaubel Peco Junior 6x9 weighs in at 1460 g, which in MF/LF I consider lightweight.</p>

[paul_ong1]

<p>Richard, Allen and Friedeman. Thanks for pointing me to the Plaubels. Wonderful looking piece of equipment (old Mercedes line), but unfortunately the only one currently on ebay has an asking price of $699. The Gavin is an option, but giving priority to a folding camera. Hopefully I will find something workable on ebay or craigslist. I have learned from past mistakes to not act on impulse, so I will take my time. But now I have a good list of options.</p>

[simon_oflynn]

<p>I recently got a Plaubel Peco Junior 9x12/10x15 and it is definitely very light, plus beautifully built with plenty of movements - mine has an old bail back that accepts only single sheet metal film holders which I wouldn't recommend, but they did make universal backs for them, am on the hunt for one now.</p>