Nikon Super CoolScan 9000

[wenhan_xue]

<p>I have used above scanner for Velvia films for a couple of years, and very happy with the results. However, the scanner is not friendly for scanning BW film, specifically on scratch and dust removal. To that end, what has been your solution or experience? Please share. </p>

[mendel_leisk]

<p>I believe the 9000 has a more diffuse light source than the 5000 or V, so is better than it's stablemates in that regard. I've scanned the same frames Tri-X with both a (first gen) Minolta Scan Elite 5400 (relatively diffuse light type, couple with a frosted plate in the light path, called "Grain Dissolver'), and a Coolscan V.</p>

<p>The V is merciless in rendering scratches, that are not apparent, or very muted, with the 5400. And this muting does not come with a general softening of real detail. It's akin to enlargers and their light sources I think.</p>

<p>There's some examples in this thread:</p>

<p><a href="../digital-darkroom-forum/00RdwH">http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00RdwH</a></p>

<p><a></a><a></a><a></a>There's a scratch across knuckles in one of the crops. Actually both scans had been spotted so maybe not the best example. Basically, the V scans required much more clean up.</p>

<p>Again, the 9000 has a more diffuse light source, but maybe not that much different.</p>

[bgelfand]

<p>I do not scan my black and white film, except low resolution scans to catalog on the computer.</p>

<p>That written, if I wanted to scan from prints, I would consider chromogenic (C-41 process) black and white films. You can leave ICE on with them.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>You can't use ICE with B&W film - the silver blocks infrared, confusing dust with the image. You can, however, use extra care to remove dust before scanning, then follow up with Photoshop and the Clone or Healing tool.</p>

[wenhan_xue]

<p>Do Vuescan or Silverfast work well with 9000 for BW scanning? Your thoughts?<br>

Edward, can you share your cleaning techniques?<br>

Thanks for all your responses.</p>

[sfcole]

<p>I have very little problem with dust and scratches on B&W film. You have to be careful during the entire process, and not just before you scan it: chemicals should be thoroughly mixed, photoflo should be used, and film should not be hung up to dry any longer than absolutely necessary. When pulling to scan, I carefully dust off, and often use an anti-static brush. The Epson V500 captures more dust than my Nikon 8000, but even still for 120 I have very little cloning to do. 35mm is generally a nightmare no matter what.<br>

Vuescan works perfectly well for B&W scanning. However, I do find that there is not a catch-all process for all negatives. Some people only scan their B&W as transparencies; I've found that this can occasionally make things worse. Sometimes I get better results from NikonScan, sometimes from Vuescan. And sometimes I even get better scans from Epson.</p>

[robert lee]

<blockquote>

<p>However, the scanner is not friendly for scanning BW film, specifically on scratch and dust removal.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It doesn't do scratch and dust removal on B&W film; no scanner that I know of does.</p>

<p>The way to get around this problem is to develop your own B&W. The film's dry after about four hours in my part of town. That's when the digitization starts. Spotting is still necessary, just not so much.</p>

[sfcole]

<p>I'd also add that there can be a big difference in cleanliness between labs. When my Velvia gets sent out, it comes back spotless. When color negs are done locally they are often filthy.</p>

[mattb1]

<p>I have always though that wet mounting would help. Does anyone know if that is true? I have not tried it yet.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>I clean film and the glass holder just prior to scanning with an anti-static brush, then a blast of canned air. I wear lint-free gloves to avoid fingerprints on the film or glass holder. Use good light source, like a halogen desk lamp, crosswise to the surface, to inspect the film. You can see dust particles as small as about 20 microns in this way.</p>

<p>Wet mounting will improve contrast and eliminate scratches. It does nothing to mitigate dust and may add bubbles, which must be retouched as well. It also adds about 15 minutes of work (or more) to each scan, and introduces a highly flammable liquid to the work environment.</p>

[dan_max1]

<p>Try fluid scanning,(wet mounting) it replaces ICE. Obstinate dust it will not remove but it will remove or diminish the effect of most dust. You get much more than than, a flat film plane and greater sharpness and contrast.<br>

dmax</p>