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Re-using 120 film.


noah_bolanowski

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<p>It is actually easy to do. If you try it you will have to unstick and restick the tape that holds the film to the backing paper is all, it moves it about 3/8 to 1/2 inch is all. I would do it because I hate wasting film.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>"the film will have received some exposure through the paper"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Nope! It shouldn't have done because the backing paper is totally opaque and meant to keep light from fogging the film - that's the very reason it's there in the first place.</p>

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But it's wrapped around the film a couple of turns in those situations it is exposed to light normally.

And it's not uncommon to have frame numbers printed on the backing paper 'magically' appear on film due to light coming through red windows on old cameras.<br /><br />So i don't share your confidence in the light stopping power of that backing paper.

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<p>I think Ian's point, about the emulsion possibly having been scratched, is the most persuasive reason not to re-use it. However, all is not lost; a couple of ruined "dummy" rolls, to use for practice load, are pretty valuable. Just re-wind the spoiled film onto the original spool and practice loading your camera over and over, until it becomes second nature. That will make it unlikely that you'll spoil more film.</p>
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<p>A constant "stream of light" thru a red window is a lot more than a normal exposure from the shutter. Also, the emulsion never touches the pressure plate, only the frame rails on the sides, and maybe the rollers at the ends of the frame. Use one roll to practice rewinding in light to see how it's done and try the second one in the dark. You have to keep it tight, or you will find the paper or film buckling when you get to the taped end of the film.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Made the same mistake the first time I loaded a 6x6 camera - a Minolta Autocord borrowed from a friend, several years ago.</p>

<p>I would salvage those two rolls, but not for re-shooting pictures. I would keep them for "mechanical" things like testing film flatness, frame spacing, winding problems etc. I've used "dud" films for such things in the past.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Hi, Noah, Clay's right, it's easy to do. I did it after I first purchased a Hasselblad. Not realizing the film was loaded backwards, I shot the roll and had it developed and printed. The pictures of wetlands came out with an orange end-of-the-world look. I'd need to check to see if it was 120 or 220 film. --Sally</p>
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<p>i still subscribe to the theory that "film is cheap"... today you just have to add, relative to the price of ????<br>

actually you can save the rolls, whip them out to show to people who have had a vague idea of what film is.<br>

unroll it and explain that "now it's been exposed to light and it's no good!"<br>

people are alternately fascinated, shocked, confused, amazed... thinking "he must be rich, eccentric, wonderful" to do something like that! <br>

good for the ego and a conversation starter.</p>

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