Most efficient way to develop small batches of 4x5?

[craig_dick1]

<p>Hello,<br>

Did my first four negs (only own 2 film holders) and they turned out really well but used 300ml of DDX stock (1500ml working sol'n) in order to have enough depth in an 8x10 tray. I don't plan on taking alot of pictures in this format, but will probably want to develop at least 2 negs at a time. I thought I had hit on a great scheme by mixing up 5L of working sol'n from my 1L bottle of DDX and always returning the developer into jug which allows for the development of many negs with increasing development times. But reading further in the Ilford technical sheet, I see that working solutions of film developer have a 24hr shelf life. I've got a few ideas, but would like to hear from others who have found ways to process small batches efficiently.<br>

Thanks, Craig</p>

<p> </p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Best: Jobo 2521 tank and 2509n reel + manual roller base. 270ml minimum solution up to 6 sheets.</p>

 

[leighb]

<p>Tray development has been used for a long time for sheet film, using trays of a size that matches the film.</p>

<p>You put a stack of film in the tray emulsion up (with adequate chemistry obviously) then shuffle the sheets, moving the bottom one to the top of the stack and pushing it down. This process continues uninterrupted for the full development time.</p>

<p>An alternate solution, though more expensive, is a rotary drum processor. These use small quantities of chemistry as compared with a conventional vertical tank.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[steve m smith]

<p>Paterson Orbital: <a href="http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps%20how%20orbital.html">http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps%20how%20orbital.html</a></p>

[bob_salomon]

<p>HP Combi Plan T</p>

[spodzone]

<p>Paterson Orbital, all the way! I use about 200ml dev per run myself (and replenish it - Aculux3 wins). Cheap, manual, flexible, wonderful. So cool I got two.</p>

[steve m smith]

<blockquote>

<p>Paterson Orbital, all the way! I use about 200ml dev per run myself</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I can't remember how much I use. The Orbital was originally designed to process paper. In order to process film properly and to remove the anti-halation layer on the back, it is customary to either score the bed with a knife or add some dots of glue to break the suction which holds the film to the base.</p>

<p>The original instructions state 60ml (I think) of developer. If you don't think that is enough, run it without the lid with some scrap pieces of film and you will see that it is enough (there is a video of this on YouTube).</p>

<p>Despite this, most people double the amount to 120ml which is still a small amount compared to other methods.</p>

[jim_norman2]

<p>Take a look at the Beyond the Zone System (BTZS) tubes sold by The View Camera Store. They've got their own web site and they also sell on eBay.</p>

[Monophoto]

<p>I use a six-sheet slosher (mine is homemade, but there are commercial versions out there) in an 11x14 tray. I use 800ml of working solution - in my case, I use HC-110, dilution H, with intermittent agitation.</p>

<p>If I have only one sheet, I will do it in a 4x5 tray without a slosher. I also have a two-sheet version of my slosher that fits in an 8x10 tray to cover that middle ground.</p>

<p>Part of the secret is to use a higher dilution than normal - in my case, dilution H rather than the typical dilution B. Dilution H is dilution B diluted 1:1 in plain water. In addition to improving the overall economy, the greater dilution requires an increase in development time (roughly 2x the dilution B time) which is very helpful with HC110 where the standard times can be very short for tray development with intermittent agitation. It also helps smooth out tonalities by providing some compensating effects.</p>

[martin_dake]

<p>I use a Unicolor Drum and motor base to do 2 or 4 4x5 negs at a time; it works well for me.<br>

I use Pyrocat HD which I mix up 100ml of A and B stock solutions at a time.<br>

The stock solutions last a long time and when I am ready I just use 2.5ml of the stock solutions to make 250ml of working solutions to do my 2 4x5's in the Unicolor drum.</p>

 

[john_shriver]

<p>DD-X is about the most expensive developer there is, so it is not the economical choice for sheet film processing. That's why I use HC-110 for sheet film processing. I use it in a Nikor tank. It doesn't really matter what you prcess sheet film in, you're going to use a lot of chemistry for sheet film, as four 4x5 sheets are as much film as a 36-exposure roll. All options use a lot of chemistry, some use even more.</p>

 

[ian_gordon_bilson]

<p>You could Google the "Taco method" : basically curving the sheets ,emulsion in ,with rubber bands,and using a largish film tank.<br>

Second problem is the expense of large volumes of diluted developer. You can avoid this by using a developer like Xtol,replenished. Check out APUG and read the thread on this.<br>

After years of being a believer in the diluted/one-shot method,I tested this. Despite my doubts,the results were superior in all respects. And you can't deny the economics : 80ml of fresh developer for each 4 sheets (4x5in ) is your total cost.</p>

[cj8281]

<p>Home built tube developer that uses about 6 oz of solution (180ml). See here: <a href="http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/photos/lfdevelop.html">http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/photos/lfdevelop.html</a> I used plastic putty knives instead of ABS sheeting as it is not readily available here, (meaning I was too lazy to really look for it). An addition to this method, if you sand or file the ends down that are to be slip fitted together, they won't leak near as much or maybe not at all. I found that the stock that I purchased has a lot of lines running length wise and this is where the leakage comes from. Even though you are removing material, (not too much, just enough to get it smooth) you will end up with a surface that will seal better. I used a lathe and a file to smooth mine down. It does not leak at all.</p>

<p>I am also currently working on a larger tank to develop 2 sheets at a time and only use 6 to 8 ounces of water. It will sit on a homemade roller base. When I get it finished and if it works well I will post a thread on it.</p>

<p>I have tried the tray method and I ended up with all the negatives scratched up. The above tanks can be loaded in a changing bag and day light developed.</p>

[allen_whittier]

<p>I use the Besler color drum that processes four sheets at a time. I've tried most of the drums out there and have found the Besler to be the easiest to use. The Besler drum comes with rails that slip into slots to create stops that hold various sizes of film. If you get a drum make sure these aren't missing. The drums come in several sizes. The largest one I have will accommodate 11x14 film with ease.<br>

Since I always shoot a Left/Right stereo pair, processing the two together helps me spot a shutter that isn't firing at a constant speed. The disadvantage of processing four at a time is the "learning curve" involved in learning to get the back two negs out without scratching them. It's a great way to process film.<br>

http://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&channel=s&hl=en&source=hp&q=Beseler+Print+Developing+Drums&btnG=Google+Search<br>

http://cgi.ebay.com/Beseler-Print-Developing-Drums-/360315664721?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e47cb951</p>

[w_t1]

<p>if i have a few sheets i find my tray method simple, instead of the jobo expert drum</p>

<p>you need one tray and 3 buckets, pour into the buckets after done sloshing, I made the quadrants by gluing half-circle slices of pvc pipe, should be self-explanatory. I tried the interleaving sheet method a few times but usually got scratches</p>

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[craig_dick1]

<p>Hello and thank-you for all the responses. I'm leaning towards using X-tol and replenishing though I'd try the Paterson Orbital if I could get my hands on one. I've also been considering brush agitation as a way to keep my hands out of the chemicals. I saw mention of a neg-holding "plate" for this process, but don't know the details.<br>

Thanks again - I'll definitely be re-reading the responses before my next development session. (Just noticed a big scratch on a neg after doing an enlargement, so I've got to work on the shuffle if I go with trays.)<br>

Craig</p>

[fredsphotos]

<p>I've used 5x7 trays for many years with good results. This "old fashioned method" has one down side - you have to pay attention the whole time!</p>