FM3a; night-time use; sub-zero temperatures?

[donaldamacmillan]

<p>Hi folks</p>

<p>Just in need of some practical advice. I've got a few frames of ISO 50 blacka and white film left in my FM3a and am very interested in doing some night-time photography to finish off my film. </p>

<p>A few things i'm wondering about:<br>

1) Temperatures here on the east-coast of Scotland have been very, very cold for more than a week now, getting below -10 degrees C i think last night, and these temperatures are set to stay with us for a few more days apparently (not as cold as else-where even in Scotland, nevermind in other corners of the globe i entirely realise, but still very cold for us here and certainly by MY definition of cold!) .... can anyone give me any advice about using my camera in such cold conditions please? Any useful tips to ensure it comes to no harm? Can anything internally be adversely affected by sub-zero temperatures? Am i being all concerned over nothing?! </p>

<p>And,</p>

<p>2) Any tips please for night-time photography using ISO 50 monochrome film in terms of correct exposure? I am hoping to try some snow-covered landscape shots, probably with sodium street-lighting .... I'd also like to do some star trails perhaps (if i can tollerate the frozen toes/fingers that i'm expecting!) too if the snow clouds go away! I only have 9-10 frames left, so only room for a wee bit of bracketing i think .... </p>

<p>Kindest regards,<br>

Donaldo</p>

 

[Two23]

<p>That's nowhere near cold enough to have much effect on your camera, assuming the shutter is clean and not gummed up. For exposue, I suggest taking a small point & shoot camera along and using it to take test shots, then use the exposure you liked best. You will need a tripod, of course. The p&s camera uses batteries, so keep it in an inside pocket to keep them functioning. When bringing the camera back into your house be sure it's in a sealed up bag, and don't take it out of the bag for several hours.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[luis_g]

<p> With fresh batteries you should have no problems, as long as you're not much below -10 deg C. Wind the film gently. Some films get brittle when cold. Bracketing is a good idea, specially on the overexposure side. Check for the reciprocity failure exposure compensation for the film(s) in question and input this into your settings. Leave the UV filters off and use a lens hood. Have fun, and yes, put the camera/lens into a well-sealed baggie for its return home.</p>

<p> </p>

[dbcooper]

<p>Don't worry too much about the batteries with an FM3A. As long as you select the shutter speed manually (with the dial), and don't care about the in-camera metering (which won't work for long exposures anyway), an FM3A shutter will function perfectly well with no battery in the camera at all. I used to remove it for night shooting and keep it in my pocket in case I needed to use the meter later on.</p>

<p>As for possible shutter gumming issues, if you're using 'B' for time exposures (you probably will with ISO 50 film at night), as long as the shutter will open and close, you should be ok. You can use the multiple-exposure feature to check shutter operation on a single frame if you don't want to use up your film testing it.</p>

<p>As mentioned above, do use a tripod or other solid support, do allow for reciprocity, and do bracket. Also consider blocking the viewfinder with a piece of gaffer tape or a dark piece of cloth during long exposures to prevent stray light getting in the camera during exposure. Dress warm and keep your socks dry!</p>

[lilly_w]

<p>Temps are no problem whatsoever for camera. Hard to offer sodium light exposure suggestions as much depends on intensity/illumination of key subject. Perhaps get close and meter primary feature. If feature doesn’t register on your meter due to low ISO, temporarily set film ISO to 800, 1600 or whatever is necessary to get reading, extrapolate to arrive at appropriate exp for 50, re-set ISO to 50 and shoot using Bulb (cable release) while watching seconds (minutes?) tick-by on your watch. <em>Account for reciprocity.</em> Consult on-line tech sheet for your film for reciprocity info. Stop-down at least one stop for stars, no more than two and expose for at least 20 min, up to an hour or more (several hours for huge 'sweep'). Remove filters, as noted. Last, certainly not least, single malt!</p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>The greatest obstacle of cold weather is how it affects battery performance. Since this is an FM3, the battery only powers the meter so for you it should be no big deal.</p>

[CvhKaar]

<p>I totally agree with the other responses, especialy with Lilly W. , for the last remark i'd say : a wee drop of Coal Ila would realy help . . :-) ( its in front of me) .....</p><div></div>

[lachaine]

<p>You just need the usual precautions about preventing condensation. Once acclimated to the outside temp, the camera will work just fine -- at much colder temps than you are facing. It's usually advisable to avoid winding the film too fast, though. It can cause little star-like patterns to appear on the slides or negatives.</p>

[donaldamacmillan]

<p>Thanks folks</p>

<p>I'm certainly less apprehensive about heading out into the relative freezing cold with my FM3a now, i will however be fairly gentle with winding-on my film. As far as getting the exposure correct is concerned, i'm still lacking a bit of confidence .... Thanks Lilly, i will give much of what you've suggested a try and hope that i manage to extrapolate back to ISO 50 correctly! I will bracket (by aperture?) but i guess i will have to resign myself to 'wasting' a few frames .... </p>

<p>Something else that i am also wondering about, how am i best ensuring that i can achieve reasonable to good depth of field in a night-time landscape and also shoot perfect sharp star trails too? What aperture would give me my best balance of over-all image sharpness and exposure? Where would my best point of focus be? Somewhere in the mid-ground (assumming i can see much detail through my view-finder at night?!) or just set my lens (20mm f2.8 Ai) at infinety? </p>

<p>Lilly, great advice re single malt! You must know a Scotsman or two :-)) </p>

<p>CPM van het Kaar, a wee drop or two of Ceol Ila perhaps? ;-)) A very beautiful single malt! </p>

<p>Many thanks again to all<br>

Donaldo</p>

 

[lachaine]

<p>I realized after I gave incomplete advice about care in winding. What I was thinking of is winding the film/shutter carefully and smoothly (in sub-zero cold, the film holes can tear), and rewinding the film slowly if you chamge film in the cold (little crinkle or star patterns can form if you go too fast).</p>

<p>If it was me, I would not use ISO 50 film.</p>

[dbcooper]

<blockquote>

<p>Since this is an FM3, the battery only powers the meter so for you it should be no big deal.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The battery is also used in the shutter circuit. The shutter in an FM3A is an electronic hybrid. With a serviceable battery in the camera, the shutter is electronically timed and is 'stepless' with the 'A' shutter speed selected. The battery also allows the TTL feature to work.</p>

<p>Besides the exposure meter, neither the 'A' shutter control mode nor TTL flash control will not work with a discharged or absent battery. The shutter and PC terminal/hot shoe trigger <em>will</em> work mechanically if a regular shutter (or 'B') speed is selected, battery present or not. AFAIK, that's unique to the FM3A. I've never heard of an FM3.</p>

[lilly_w]

<p>Donald, the vast majority of lenses deliver sharper images somewhere around 2 or 3 stops 'down' from wide open. Thus, if you're shooting a 2.8 lens, f4-8 will give you the sharpest results. This is esp critical for stars, being 'point sources' of light. Unless you're double-parked, don't shoot stars wide open, esp to minimize coma. Consult this <a href="http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html">link </a>for using hyperfocal focusing / depth of field chart. Be sure to check the accuracy of the infinity mark on your lens under proper light/distance before the lights dim. In general, hard to go wrong with f 5.6 using hyperfocal, perhaps biased mildly toward infinity if stars are primary subject vs. earth-based subject.</p>

[nathan_wong2]

<p>Advice, when winding your film don't use a motor drive or wind your film quickly. Do it slowly. Doing it quickly can cause static electricity and you'll see lightning bolts on your film.<br>

Oh, I see Pierre Lachaine responded with the same thing.</p>

[kivis]

<p>This works for me.</p>