justin_fullmer1 Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 I know that this isn't exactly the right forum but I thought I might get more responses this way. Anyone have a quick, reliable way of calculating fill flash. I am doing some outdoor portraits using fuji neopan 160 and I want to balance the flash exposure with natural light. The flash I will be using is the old Vivitar 283 in conjuction with a Nikon FE2. Thanks!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan_ratzlaff Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Do you want it the same as natural light or 1 stop less. You have certain limitations for aperture depending on the sync speed of the shutter and how much light you have. For fill set the aperture on the flash the same as your lens. If you want the fill flash lower set the aperture on your lens between 1/2 and one stop smaller than the aperture set on the flash. The flash output will be less than the camera setting allowing some flash in the shadow. This will only work if the aperture you have selected results in a shutter speed that still syncs with the flash. If it is too bright, you may have to use an ND filter or slower film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_porter1 Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 For full sunlight, set your camera at 1/250 @ f/11. Set your 283 on Auto at the f/8 setting. The principle's the same in all lighting conditions; just set your auto flash at one to two stops under your daylight exposure. That's it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
art_haykin Posted October 9, 2002 Share Posted October 9, 2002 Jon, are you SURE that will work with a 283? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don_sigl Posted October 9, 2002 Share Posted October 9, 2002 Justin: I use fill flash when lighting with north light in the studio. You will be limited to the synch shutter speed on your particular system. I calculate flash with a flash meter. I then test with polaroid. If neither of these solutions is feasible, then I would bracket a test roll and develop the film to determine the look you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_porter1 Posted October 9, 2002 Share Posted October 9, 2002 "Jon, are you SURE that will work with a 283?" It works with any auto flash that can be set at a stop or two below the ambient light exposure. If I'm not mistaken, the 283 offers a choice of four F-stops in Auto mode. For what Justin's planning, I'd probably set the flash closer to f/5.6 for a subtler effect; I like it when you can't tell fill flash was used. But it all comes down to personal taste in any given situation. Also, this system assumes the camera is set on manual with the correct exposure. If you're using the camera in shutter-preferred auto your exposures could be all over the map. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
art_haykin Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Jon: I still don't get it. If he follows your instructions at at say 6 feet camera to subject distance, would it be the same at 20 feet, with flash on camera, set on "AUTO?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_porter1 Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Jon: I still don't get it. If he follows your instructions at say 6 feet camera to subject distance, would it be the same at 20 feet, with flash on camera, set on "AUTO?" Yes. An auto flash frees you from calculating distance. But fill flash is generally used in the 3-12' range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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