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Risks in getting used 5D


steve_wagner1

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<p>I've pretty much decided on a used 5D to replace my stolen 5D2, eventually a new 5D2 will become the primary and this 5D a backup. I want to use the extra $1300 I'll save to help with replacing my core lenses - 17-40, 70-200, and 400 5.6 prime. I intend to get a used 5D from B&H, KEH, or Adorama, at the upper end of the grading scale, for around $1,200.</p>

<p>I've been trying to determine the main liabilities, other than shutter failure or just general camera problems associated with age that I can't know about. The only two things I've come up with are - a super dirty and/or scratched sensor that somehow made it past QC, and the lack of microfocus adjustment, meaning I would potentially have to send it off to Canon. The latter doesn't worry me that much, since I seemed to do fine without it with the 20D and 40D. Any thoughts on these two things or other 5D specific risks to consider?</p>

<p>On a side note I was impressed in making this decision (about lens replacement as well, all my lenses got stolen too) how Canon has seemed to skillfully avoid giving us any option for a single lens solution from a usable-but-not-extreme super wide - up to 70, which could provide a real two lens solution for travel (paired with a 70-200). I would pay big money for a top quality 18-55 f/2.8 IS (for full frame, I know about the ef-s 17-55) or a 20-70 f/2.8 IS or something similar.</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

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<p>Buying used can be risky </p>

<p>How are you at buying other used items in life?</p>

<p>Many folks fare better than others in buying used; whether a hammer; house; car; camera; mower etc.</p>

<p>Here I have bought several hundreds sticks of used ram off of ebay; from gobs of total unknowns. Other folks stress you want a reputable non ebay seller; thus pay 2 to 50 times more.</p>

<p>As I mentioned on the thread about shutter clicks; a camera can have internal cancer due to a cracked trace; growing corrosion due to water damage. Even the seller does not know what the original user did to the unit.</p>

<p> With all your concerns about clicks on other thread and hidden damage on this thread; maybe you should just buy new?</p>

<p>Maybe you should direct your concerns directly with the possible used 5D sellers; they might know who the original user was; thus sell you a better one.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>It's very curious that you don't consider the EF 24-105mm L lens. Why? 24mm at one time would have been considered really wide on a 35mm film camera.</p>

<p>For ultrawide on a 35mm sensor, there is the Sigma 12-24mm, for example, but the 17-40 or 16-35 are good, if not quite so 'ultra'.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>Canon has seemed to skillfully avoid giving us any option for a single lens solution from a usable-but-not-extreme super wide - up to 70</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Why are you picking on Canon for this? Because you use Canon, sure, but I don't think any other manufacturer offers a full-frame 20-70mm zoom, so it's not as if Canon is "skillfully avoiding" anything. Look at the history in this area. Back in the '70s, both Canon and Nikon offered 35-70mm lenses. By the 1990s that had expanded to 28-70mm (sometimes 28-80mm). Now you can get 24-70mm. The trend seems clear, that the low end is gradually creeping lower; though how far it will go remains to be seen, since the demand for the 24-35mm range is probably greater than for the 16-24mm range. (Again, we're talking full-frame here; the existence of APS-C 18-55mm or 15-85mm lenses isn't really a counter-argument, since 15 x 1.6 = 24 and the engineering issues work out somewhat differently in a smaller format. By the same token, the existence of 6-22mm lenses in tiny-sensor P&S cameras says little or nothing about the practicality of, or market demand for, a 6-22mm full-frame lens.)</p>

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<p>If they shot blazing sunsets with a tele it is not uncommon to see burn marks in the mirror box. If they were dull enough to use MLU on a tripod the shutter curtain will be blackened from the sun.</p>

<p>The only issues I've heard of with older 5D are detached reflex mirrors and dim greenish tinted LCD. The CMOS filter/overlay was considered easily damaged (coating peels off) if the wrong cleaner were used. My 3 year 5D only suffered from dim LCD syndrome and was extremely reliable. </p>

Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see.

- Robert Hunter

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<p>Thanks two Peters and Puppy face, good advice. As far as picking on Canon, to me it's an obvious decision on their part, 24 is the cutoff for not having satisfying wide angle for landscapes and photojournalism. If there was a top notch 20-70 or something like an 18-60, a lot of people would be pretty happy with two lenses - that plus a 70-200, and wouldn't get the 16-35 or the 17-40 or the 24-105 or the 24-70. It's smart marketing but a pain for someone who travels a lot and would like a high quality, comprehensive two lens solution.</p>
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I have a Canon refurbished 5D that I bought a couple of years ago. It looks and performs like it was new. I paid a little more for it but the fact that Canon did the rehab and I got it from a reputable dealer made me somewhat more comfortable. Get a serial number that starts above 2 as they made some changes that prevented LCD greenish color cast. The latest firmware is important but I can't remember why right now. The LCD, as you know is small and very difficult to see in any sort of direct light. As you know it has a slow frame rate. I have a 17-40, 24-105 and a couple of L telephotos. I rarely carry the 17-40 because I don't want to carry three lenses either. The wide end of the 24 has significant barrel distortion as you know but I just did some pictures this weekend that can go to 16x20 that are very sharp. I can fix the distortion. I think I have a very good copy. I recently did an airshow with a 1.6 crop body with my 5D as backup. I reverted to the 5D because I could pick up the aircfraft a lot easier with the full frame view finder. I really do not have a great urge to upgrade to the 5D II because I am getting what I need at my level of photography out of the 5D. I had an EOS 1n that I used for a long time and this body feels and handles like that body. I am very comfortable with it. To some the 12.8 MP is not enough but for my large print uses the pictures are fine. I am not an automaitic type user so auto ISO and other bells an whistles are not important to me so a body like this suits me fine.
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<p>More Mirrors falling out:</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/groups/canon5d/discuss/72157615029039977/</p>

<p>http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=825343</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00X29G</p>

<p>http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1032&message=36273379&changemode=1</p>

<p>Shaving ones mirrors:<br>

<br /> http://www.16-9.net/5d_mirrorshave/</p>

<p>Last year an associate of mine had his new Canon 5D's mirror fall out after it was a few months old; but he is a clean freak and thus I ponder if the many many mirror cleanings with chemicals debonds the mirror; since others I know have 50 or 100k clicks are all is still ok.</p>

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<p>I haven't been burned buying a used camera yet, (flash equipment yes, cameras no) but you have to be careful. If you are paying anything over $200 for a used camera, or other equipment for that matter, then you have to be EXTRA careful in reading the product description.<br>

The old adage in Business and this has been going on for centuries since the begining of time, is "show me the product". But online slaes have changed all that. If you can't see it, feel it or smell it, then you have to guess, and/or scrutinize the seller online. That is the hazard of shopping online.<br>

I have purchased tons of stuff on eBay or other websites and mostly the transactions were satisfactory. On rare ocassions I purchased equipment that died on me after only a few days/week or months. <br>

Some sellers used trick advertising. Even on KEH and other so-called "reputable firms", I got burned a couple of times, but it did not happen very often luckily, I guess that says something about my fellow human beings.<br>

In any case, I would not purchase anything over $100 online, if it did not have some type of money back guarantee. I usually stay away from "Sold As Is" products and avoid products with a 7-14 day return policy. I mean how are you going to really check out a product in 7 to 14 days ! </p>

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I recently picked up a used 5d from a pro thy was getting rid of it. Camera had about 30k actuations. I know the

shutter may last 5 or even 75 thousand more actuations and I am ok with that though I have had very good experience

with all 4 of my Canons with the oldest bein over 40 years. They make solid equipment. I like the 5d though I have not

done any sports with it yet. Mostly landscape and automobile and people portraits. The four frames a second is fine

though this have more to do with still using my A1. I think it is a simple camera and has helped me get back into

photography. My walk around lens is a 24-105 and I am impressed with this match. My recommendations would be to

do as you say and pick up one from the big dealers. If possible visit the store. They also have a return timeframe.

Best of luck with your decision.

Allan

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<p>I am not sure if a stolen camera will qualify. But if you were the registered owner and have documentation to show the loss, calling the Canon Customer Loyalty Program’s (direct number is 866-443-8002, option 2 for digital camera upgrades). This may be another way of getting a refurbished or new camera. Some details:</p>

<p >1) Specify that you have a broken Canon XYZ camera and would like to know what the loyalty upgrade options are. They will try to transfer you to a technician, but you can tell them you just want to know the prices first and the rep can give them to you.</p>

<p >2) Once you are ready, call again. This time, you will get transfered to a technician, who will ask you to desribe the issues. They would verify that 1) it’s broken* and 2) it’s out of warranty (just say you’ve had it for a over a year). Then, he would ask for the broken camera’s serial number, your name, phone, address and email.</p>

<p >3) The technician will give you the prices as well, then transfer you back to the loyalty program rep, who will take your name, phone, address again as well as your credit card. You will get the order number.</p>

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