Advice on a 2000FC

[zane_yau]

<p>Hi guys, I already own a 500CM system with 50, 80 and 150 lenses. <br>

Friend of mine is offering his 2000FC + 80 CFE lens for about $800USD to me. It got me thinking because I know that I can use some pretty cool lenses like 50 2.8 and 110 F2 on the 2000FC. But then I will have to spend about $1500USD to get these two lenses.<br>

I am just wondering what are the different applications of these cameras. I know that the 2000FC has a focal plane shutter and goes as fast as 1/2000s. Does that mean the shutter will be louder? What are the benefits of the 2000FC over 500CM apart from the ability to use fast lenses like the two mentioned above?<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

 

[ken_wayne1]

<p>If the lens is definitely a CFE then alone ( if mint ) it is worth usd $800. You could sell it if you didn't need it ( use your 80mm CF off the 500cm ) and you'd have the FC for free basically. I'll let others chime in regarding application but I think you've noted the main differences.</p>

[zane_yau]

<p>Thanks Ken and wow that lens alone is $800! Is it really that much better than the old 80 C?<br>

Yes, it is. I got picture of the actual item. </p>

[ken_wayne1]

<p>Zane,</p>

<p>Yes, I sell hasselblad gear daily and the 80mm CFE 2.8 Lens will easily sell for $800 if it's in mint condition. Usually more. Several have sold on eBay in the last month or two for around usd $1000.</p>

<p>Better than the old 80mm C? Well does the C have the T*? The 80mm CFE is supposed to be better but you will always have debates over such things. When one starts comparing charts and graphs I get that...but for practical applications which is what most shooters need it can get ridiculous to try and dissect such things. </p>

<p>Of course being newer it has all the latest ergonomic differences and internal coatings and such. Some users, however, will claim that their C lenses will match any newer lens. I don't get into those squabbles too much. Each photographer has preferences.</p>

<p>The CFE has electronic contacts in the rear for digital applications and such which most users never need. Many buy it just because it's the "newest" one out. Each to his own.</p>

<p>Glad to help a little. It's a fine price on what you're buying. The 2000FC's, however, might be paperweights easily if you damage those curtains. Make sure it's working correctly and there is no damage. I've heard that there may be someone off in a far away place somewhere that can repair them but if I remember correctly Hasselblad stop stocking parts for those cameras quite a while ago. Seems I remember Q.G. mentioning on here before that there is someone who can still fix 'em but maybe he'll chime in.</p>

[zane_yau]

<p>Thanks again Ken for the detailed response. <br>

I am purchasing from a friend of mine and he will let me play with it for a while before i proceed which is reassuring. Thanks again and I will be careful with the curtains.</p>

[neilambrose]

I wouldn't recommend investing in a 2000FC. They're tricky to care for and impossible to service.

 

I own a 2003FCW so I'm talking from personal experience. I'm no stranger to Hasselblads (got quite a few) and I know

how to use and respect them. Mine is a paperweight now due to torn shutter curtains, despite very careful

handling. They're almost as easy to damage as gossamer, and there are few repairers who will take them on. Even if you

find someone, there are almost no parts available anywhere....and even basic maintenance work like calibrating shutter

speeds is quite difficult to find.

 

If you really want to use FE lenses try and find a 200 series instead. Improved features, tough rubberized curtains,

onboard metering. A very different camera, and you can sometimes find them at remarkably good prices.

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>There are two things with 2000-series cameras:<br>

The first is that the shutter curtains are very easily damaged. There however indeed is someone who will replace a damaged titanium foil shutter curtian with a more sturdy 'plastic' foil shutter.<br>

(Neil: dr. John Emmet, <a href="mailto:je@bpr.org.uk">je@bpr.org.uk</a>, might be able to revive your 2003 FCW. If not him, David Knapman - Pro Camera Service, Landvetter, Sweden, Tel. 31 91 94 03 - perhaps might help).</p>

<p>The second is that they are vey complicated cameras to work on, and not many repair shops were willing to take them on even when they were still in production. I don't expect the situation changed for the better since then.</p>

<p>Having said that, a 2000 FC is (in my opinion) still a good camera. You have to take care that you do not touch the shutter curtains (the FC/M and later FCW models have a shutter retraction feature that helps a lot).<br>

And you have to acknowledge that these machines are not as simple and as rugged as the 500 C/M. So don't use the camera for a ball when you want to play a game of tennis.<br>

The 2000 FC also had some problems with the circuit board (if i remember correctly). And though cameras that have survived until today without problems probably will go on without problems, you never know.</p>

<p>But it is indeed a good deal. As Ken said, you could sell the CFE (which, by the way, is the same lens as the old C. In a different mount, yes. But the glass is the same. Changes in coating will not even show in performance graphs), and have the camera almost (i'm not that optimistic about what the CFE will fetch) for free. So no risk.</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>As for the shutter being louder, I don't believe that to be the case. Remember the 500 series had a light baffle where the 2000FC shutter curtain is located. I recall that the shutter noise of the 2000FC was very similar to the sound of the 500 cameras.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>Ah, yes. The shutter sound.<br>

Hate to disagree with you, Michael, but i find the 2000-series cameras do make more noise.<br>

Sharper, more violent than the "plop-click-plop" of the 500-series.</p>

[neilambrose]

<p>Q.G. - thanks for the tip about repairs. Maybe there's some life left in my 2003FCW yet....</p>

[stuart_richardson]

<p>I have to agree with Q.G. about the 80CFE -- I have one, and I also had a 80mm CT* -- I could not notice the slightest difference between the two, other than perhaps the newer lens had more tendency to render pentagonal specular highlights since it has perfectly pentagonal aperture blades while the older lens has more rounded blades at wider apertures. Barring that, there is no optical difference. I shot them side by side at one point to see if there was a difference, and I could not find one. I gave the older one to a friend starting out in Hasselblad and kept the CFE since it has better ergonomics and the electronic contacts for the 203FE I use. <br>

I would say if you can get the 80CFE and 2000 FC for 800 dollars, go for it. As everyone has said, even if the camera doesn't last a single roll, you could always sell the 80mm and make back the money. Think of it as getting a decent deal on the 80CFE and someone throwing in a free body. You don't really need the 110/2 and 50/2.8 right away either -- the 2000 will give you 2 extra stops of shutter speed in bright light over your 500, so it can be useful for that if no other reason. <br>

And if you want you, you can eventually get some of the fantastic F/FE series lenses like the 50/2.8, 110/2, 150/2.8, 250/4, 350/4 and so on. </p>

[zane_yau]

<p>Thanks for the informative responses everyone. I will be extra careful with that shutter curtain and yes the deal is very tempting.<br>

Let me know if you want to buy a good condition 500CM system ;-)</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>Keep the 500 C/M system as well!<br>

The only (a bit) redundant thing in it will be the body. But i'm sure you will find a use for that too.</p>

 

[zane_yau]

<p>Q.G. - need to fund the new system :-P</p>

[Aoresteen]

<p>I have used the 200OF/M since around 1989/1990. I currently have two of them. I have the 50mm f/2.8, 80mm f/2.8, 110 f/2 and the 150 f/2.8 all F lenses with no EE contacts. I also have a 500C and a 500 EL/M with 50mm, 80mm, 150mm, and 250mm C lenses - all chrome except the 50 which is a black T* lens.<br>

I love my 2000F/M. I am very carefull with it - I NEVER take a back off unless I need a different back (120 vs 220 or 16 vs 12 exp). I just pull the insert to load. Leaving the back on prevents damaging the shutter. I tend to use the 110mm lens a lot but the 80 is no slouch either.<br>

All of my lenses are good - I can't tell the difference between the 150 C lens and the 150 F lens.<br>

At this point if I were to buy a Hasselblad focal plane shutter camera I would get a 200 sereies, most likely a 201F. I would not invest in a 2000 FC/M body at this time.</p>

<p><cite><a href="http://www.oresteen.com/hasselbladfcameras.htm">www.oresteen.com/<strong>hasselblad</strong>fcameras.htm</a></cite> <br>

<br>

</p>

[zane_yau]

<p>Hi Anthony, thanks for the detailed info and the link. I just checked the prices for 201F which is a lot more reasonable than 203FE... 202 seems to be in between these two which is not bad too.</p>

[zane_yau]

<p>Anthony or others, could you please clarify whether the 201F works like a mechanical camera without the battery? I read somewhere that it does. I guess those 6V batteries are readily available anyway. Thanks again guys.</p>

[evan_dong1]

<p>Zane,</p>

<p>Sorry to had contribute my 2 cents so late. Q.G. and the others had contribute a wealth of information to help you decide which path to take.<br>

As Q.G. noticed, the electronic circuit boards within the 2000 series are scarce and there are simply no new replacement for them. If you had to choose among the 2000 series, avoid the 200FC only for the non-existence of the shutter retracting device as in the later 2000FCM. The 2003 are a better bet followed by the 2000FCM. The option of the newer "plastic' shutter curtain allows me to explore the option of a viable curtain replacement to prolong the life of your 2000 series body.<br>

Among the 200 series line, you have the choice ranging from the simplest body to the most electronic filled body (201F to 205FCC). I, myself, have the 2000FCM (noisy when the shutter is fired) the 201F as a replacement for the 2000FCM when it dies (Yes, it can go into manual mode without the battery), and finally a 205TCC.<br>

Of all the original Zeiss lenses, I have just the 80mm FE, 800mm CFE, and 60-120mm FE as my only FE lenses from which I can take full advantage of the metering capability of the 205TCC. Otherwise, I have the option of using either one of (2) meter prisms (PME51 and PME90) and also my trusty Minolta Flashmeter.<br>

As Q.G. stated, keeping the 500CM would be a good choice if you buy into the CF lenses. That way you can interchange the lenses between the 2000/200 series bodies and the 500CM. Just another option to think about.<br>

Good luck in your choice of body.</p>

<p>Evan</p>

 

[zane_yau]

<p>Thanks a lot Evan for all the info and clarification. You guys have been the most helpful.</p>