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March of the Mamiyas


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<p>All I really wanted was one spare part for my Mamiya 1000 DTL. It had a missing center cover for the wind lever, which also caps the button that switches the meter off. It still worked, but I wanted to replace the makeshift plastic cover I had made for it. So I was just looking for a parts camera.<br /> <br />The auction listing was for three Mamiya cameras for parts. There was a Sears Auto CS 1000MX , which is a rebadged Mamiya NC1000, that the seller claimed actually worked; an MSX 1000 that the seller couldn't test because it had no battery compartment cap and a broken lens; and a 1000 TL that had battery compartment corrosion and a lens that was starting to grow fungus. With such enticing descriptions, I was not surprised to get the lot for $10.50.<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww8p-263333584.JPG.a5e6bb7d88997f3316eca1f9dac9ca9d.JPG</div>
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<p>When they arrived, they were pretty much true to description. The Auto CS looked fine, with a recent, competent seal job, responsive meter, and good 50/1.7 lens. The MSX 1000 indeed lacked a battery cover, and the lens was even worse than described; the aperture wouldn't close down, and turning the focus ring (which required great force) didn't change the focus. It seems that lost battery covers are common with this model, which used a 90-degree turn latch rather than the traditional screw-in. However, the contacts for the cell in this camera are all in the compartment, not the door, and when I held a 675 cell in there, the battery jumped to life. It was a trivial matter to make a plastic slug that could be twisted into the latch to keep the battery in. The rest of the camera, lens aside, needed new seals but seemed perfectly functional. <br /> <br />On the 1000 TL, which was to be my parts camera, there was indeed battery corrosion, and the lead in the center of the battery compartment had corroded clean off and was knocking around in the compartment. I thought of soldering it back onto the exposed wire end which was visible in the recess where the lead had been, but then decided just to try soldering a goodly blob of solder to that wire and letting the solder be the new terminal. I did this, inserted the battery, and this camera's meter sprang to life as well. In fact, it was better in all respects than my DTL for which it was supposed to be a parts donor. The Sekor 50/2 lens had such slight traces of fungus that they didn't bother me at all. So now I had three Mamiyas and two lenses to try out. <br /><br /></p><div>00Ww8r-263333784.jpg.6c006a5f3e56bcab2ed9d3fae35b6f1b.jpg</div>
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<p>I started with the Auto CS. The NC1000 was a late (1978 release) Mamiya 35mm SLR for which Mamiya created a new bayonet mount. After spawning a slightly improved successor, the NC1000s, and the rebadged Sears version, it quickly died. Somehow, Mamiya had time to release a surprisingly complete line of 14 Sekor lenses in the special mount, from 14mm fisheye to 300mm tele, before the whole system was orphaned. It's too bad, because Mamiya got this one right. It's a compact, light, but not plasticky feeling camera that projects refinement in a way that earlier Mamiya 35mm SLRs don't. The winder has a nice, smooth, short-throw gearing. The shutter is quiet and reassuring. Controls are logically placed, and mostly conventional except for an around-the-mount shutter speed ring, like an Olympus OM. It has shutter-priority auto, DOF preview, and most other things you'd want in an advanced SLR. Could use an exposure comp dial, but that's about it.<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww8u-263333984.jpg.3a784c95e633780b704efb3a276e07a1.jpg</div>
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<p>The others in the line are pretty rare, but there are even fewer buyers than sellers, so the primes in the 28mm to 135mm range can be had pretty cheap with patience. For the longer and shorter ones, I'm sure there's a little more competition.<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww8w-263334184.jpg.36a3e63774e428d7ba0097576c31c1a4.jpg</div>
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<p>Its one distinguishing trait compared to most of its contemporaries is its limited-area metering, which I like a lot. I have never been a hard-core zone system guy but I do like mentally averaging readings from various areas. Compared with typical average metering, I get just as accurate exposures, and I really have to think about what tonal value everything is, and where I want detail.<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww90-263334584.jpg.80e993cc64858e3efdf78a103ffd4f5a.jpg</div>
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<p>By the time I had finished testing those two cameras, I had snagged a cheap replacement 55/1.8 lens in the SX variation of M42 mount and was ready to test drive the MSX 1000. This falls between the other two cameras in refinement, although it is much closer in size and overall feel to the TL.<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww92-263334784.jpg.221382a0539cfd1afc78ce6dca983d8c.jpg</div>
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<p>The SX lenses allow open-aperture metering by virtue of a little notch cut into the mount which engages with something on the camera to lock them affirmatively at the right-side-up position, and a little lug in the back which turns with the aperture ring and engages a lever on the camera that tells it how far you are stopping down. It's amazing how simply and elegantly these small modifications enable the M42 mount to meter wide open, just like a bayonet mount. <br /><br /></p><div>00Ww94-263334884.jpg.65332e51d779d8a0194bd243c4c48c52.jpg</div>
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<p>SX lenses are more difficult to find than CS lenses and, because they look like other M42 lenses, they often are not correctly identified as SXs. It is going to take me a while to build up a group of these. I have read that Vivitar made an SX adapter for its TX mount lens line, which would open up a lot of possibilities for me, but I suspect these are rare and, again, rarely correctly identified in an auction listing.<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww97-263335584.jpg.8d010656a736558865e2f1a18ae4ac2f.jpg</div>
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<p>The MSX has the same limited-area metering spot as the TL, and what passes for a user interface also is basically the same, so it's easy to switch between the two cameras. Somehow the MSX shutter does feel a little smoother and better damped.<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww9B-263335784.jpg.46a16f7fafabb025323b14d0c92d156f.jpg</div>
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<p>My poor beat-up 1000 DTL not only didn't get the part it needed, but is now relegated to third-string backup among my Mamiya SLRs. I'll try to make sure it gets a little exercise!<br /><br /></p><div>00Ww9C-263335884.jpg.da8e3f8fd5ce39ee47e64038c575fec2.jpg</div>
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<p>Good buying, August. I consider the Mamiya SLRs to be very under-rated and, like you, I have a great liking for Mamiya Sekkor glass. I no longer have a NC1000, but I remember it as a fine camera with exceptional lenses. The CS lenses still seem to crop up on The Great Auction Site, particularly in the UK, for some reason, and the prices are reasonable. I still have my 1000TL with a couple of lenses, and while I admire the engineering I find it somehow a little cumbersome. Once again, the lenses are really great. The MSX1000 I'm not at all familiar with, but it's a handsome camera. A nice range of photographs; I particularly like your creative "window" pic, and the "Fallen Fence" is dramatic.</p>
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<p>Enjoyed the images. The Mamiya 1000 TL brings back memories. My dad bought one as his first SLR in the late 60's. I learned how to use an SLR on that camera. Shot lots of bulk-loaded Plus-X and Tri-X. He had the f1.4 lens which was incredible. He also had a Vivitar 85-205 f3.8 zoom lens. It was a rather mediocre lens compared to the tele zooms that became available later, but for a teenager eager to learn, I thought it was pretty good at the time. I remember taking pictures at football game with that combo and impressing the Polaroid/Instamatic crowd with my results. A couple of the guys on the football team had been trying to recruit me to try out for the team, but when they saw the pictures they decided that I'd made the right choice. The stop down metering really helped me to better understand depth of field too.</p>
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<p>My 35mm Mamiyas include a 1000 DTL, an NC1000, an NC1000S and a ZE. The aperture mechanism of the CS lenses can get gummed up so you have to be careful not to force any pin or lever. I was actually able to find several additional focusing screens for the NC1000S as well as the Mamiya adapter for using SX or other M42 lenses with the NC cameras. For CS lenses I have 1 50/1.7, a 50/1.4 and a 135/2.8. I prefer the smooth stop down metering ofthe 1000 DTL to that of the Pentax Spotmatics. I almost forgot that I also have a Mamiya Auto XTL with 35/2.8, 55/1.4 and 135/2.8 Mamiya Sekor lenses. I only got the ZE because I found a 50/3.5 E lens for very little. The ZE came with 50/2 which needs a little exercise. The meter doesn't work so I have only one mechanical shutter speed. I also found a 28/3.5 E lens in a drawer. Who knows when I got that? I think I bought it because it was described as fitting the NC cameras and the photo was not too good. The Auto XTL seems to be the best made of my 35mm Mamiyas, followed by the 1000 DTL. In M42 Mamiya lenses I have a 28/2.8, a 55/1.4, a 135/2.8 SX and a 200/3.5. I would like to add some lenses for the Auto XTL and if I can find one at a good price I would like to have the P adapter for using M42 lenses on the Auto XTL. The adapter provides stop down metering as well as auto diaphragm operation. </p>
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Nice collection there.. seems like me. Start out to fix A, get three times the wrong part and now A still isn't fixed and you're swimming in more cameras.. does your wife read this column? I personally think it's great, I just added the "wife read" on the subject to make you feel better!! Still great shooting and I loved all the pictures! The Window, the Blue sky, the Fire Hydrant, the Fence all great!
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Thanks for the comments guys. SP, those color choices were intentional. "Auto color" thinks the light color should always be what it is at noon in the sun, but when the real scene is green or blue I like to leave it that way. Mike, I have that Vivitar zoom in Minolta mount and was shooting it on an SRT today. Big lens! Jeff, thanks for the additional info. I just prevailed in an auction for a 28 and a 135 for the CS, about $20 together, so I've got my basic kit now and will see how they work.
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