rod_larson

Hi Kodakkook123 I am out of town for a few days so i don't have access to my notes but will try to answer your questions when I get back.

A great little camera, Rick. Folded up it is small enough to fit in a pocket and as you have ampley demonstrated capable of producing excellent results. For repairing light leaks go to your local auto parts store and get some black acid free silicone sealant. Great for repairing small holes in the corner of the bellows. While you are there pick up a tube of black trim adhesive. It is usefull for repairing tears. For freeing up the focusing assembly remove the assembly from the shutter and put it in a jar filled with a solvent such as laquer thinner or acetone. Cover so the solvent doesn't evaporate and let it soak for a couple of days or until the helicoid threads loosen up.

Looking at your video it appears it starts by you advancing the frame lever. If so at the very top center of the shutter there is a shaft which should be turning and it is not so the shutter is not cocked. All that is happening by advancing the frame lever is the shutter button interlock is released so the button can be pressed.

About 90% of the cameras with leaf shutter will not work because the lubricants used have dried out and hardened. Many times lubricants will have migrated to the shutter blades which causes the shutter blades to stick. Usually the only solution is a complete teardown and cleaning. Gotta get all of the old stuff out. I am sure some of the advice you have gotten is to put a few drops of solvent on various parts. This may work in the short term. Rod

Rick- For cameras that are 60+ years old they have held up well and still a pleasure to use. MTC- There were many models of the Contaflex and also variants of the same model. Often the lightmeter was left off to market a less costly model.

Last one. Another large insect.

And another one. Giant Spider

So here are some photos to prove it works.

The excellent post by Rick Drawbridge titled "Contaflex Revisited" (www.photo.net/discuss/threads/the-contaflex-revisited.5498201/) on his Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Super inspired me to write this post on a Contaflex Rapid that I acquired last year. The Contaflex Rapid was introduced in the spring/summer of 1958 and sported a Synchro-Compur shutter with shutter speeds of 1sec to 1/500sec and B. As was popular at the time the shutter speed ring was linked to the diaphragm ring so that changing the shutter speed also changed the diaphragm opening so the same EV as previously set was maintained unless you pressed down on a small tab on the side of the shutter housing that disengages the two rings. The lens supplied is a Carl Zeiss f1:2.8, 50mm lens of the Tessar design. The front element is removable so auxiliary lenses of different focal lengths can be used. With the front element removed there is a number stamped on the inside of the lens housing that should match the serial number of the standard lens supplied with the camera. This model was called the "Rapid" because the round knob that was turned to advance the film was replaced with a more modern lever advance system which made advancing to the next frame much faster. A small pop-up lever was also added to the rewind knob to make rewinding the exposed film quicker. The Contaflex Rapid was not around very long. Later in the year a selenium light metering system was added to the Rapid and it was renamed the Contaflex Super. In its short life only about 8,000 Rapids were produced making it a relatively rare camera. This particular specimen was acquired while engaging in the mildly dangerous activity for a person with GAS of surfing the auction site late at night. The camera was advertised for parts because the shutter button was stuck and the frame advance lever moved without doing anything. I won it as the only bidder and when it arrived the shutter button was stuck and the frame advance lever moved freely but with a little extra push it completed the cocking cycle and pressing the shutter button fired the shutter. After ensuring the shutter was working properly (at least at the higher speeds) the only thing to do was to load some film and take it for a spin.

My deepest condolences to the family. I always enjoyed the photos he posted, especially the ones of Australia in the winter. Rod

In an excellent book called "Spycraft" by Robert Wallace and H. Kieth Melton (Dutton, 2008) there is information about the development of a real spy camera by the CIA's Office of Technical Services. A very interesting read. Rod

<p>Hi Rick,<br> I picked up one of these a few years back. Aires greatly simplified the operation of the leaf <br> shutter SLR by using a rotating ring with studs mounted in it. Depressing the shutter release<br> button caused the ring to rotate and the studs were so spaced they would hit the various <br> levers for operating the film gate door, mirror, and shutter mechanisms at the proper time.<br> The mirror/film gate door is a simple toggle operation. Very simple compared to a Retina<br> Reflex for example. However, the light seals inside the camera are a nightmare to replace.</p> <p>It is a very capable camera and you will enjoy using it. I also have the telephoto and wide<br> angle add-on lenses.</p> <p>Too bad Aires came out with an already obsolete design when the competition was already<br> putting out the next generation of SLR.</p> <p>Rod</p>

<p>Hi Tom,</p> <p>I think that would be the self timer lever. The mechanism may be all gummed up with old<br> dried up lubricants and non-functional hence it won't release the shutter.</p> <p>Rod</p>

<p>If you are going to get a Pentax get the MX. It is a much better built camera and was aimed<br> at the semi pro market. The K1000 was the bottom of the Pentax line and was popular as a<br> camera for students because of its low cost. I have repaired and used both.</p> <p>The OM-1 and OM-2 are excellent.</p> <p>Any of the SRT-101, SRT-201 are great and so are the lenses.</p> <p>Never owned or used a Canon A-1. The Canon FTb would be a better choice.</p> <p>Just remember any 40 year old camera is not a new camera and will at the least new light<br> seals to a complete overhaul.</p> <p>Rod</p>

<p>I watched your video and that looks like a very common problem with any camera that uses<br> a leaf shutter. Chances are the camera has been sitting around for 20 or more years and this<br> has allowed lubricants to get into shutter mechanism and the shutter blades and dry out <br> over the years causing all kinds of problems. The only solution is to take everything apart<br> and do a good cleaning or try and find one that works.</p>

<p>Great piece on the Electro 35. With all the postings on the Eletros lately I will have to run<br> roll of film through mine which I have not done in a couple of years. They are great cameras<br> and have one of the best metering systems around.</p> <p>Loved the photos of the Packard, one of my favorite cars.</p>

<p>Hi Don,<br> It does need a battery to operate. If there is no battery the shutter fires at1/500 second so<br> you can use it with if you can get along with one shutter speed. A word of caution. There is<br> a rubber pad in the shutter linkage that has probably deteriorated over the years and will<br> need to be replaced before the camera metering system will work. If you operate the film<br> advance lever and don't hear a "thunk" then that pad has to be replaced.</p> <p>The Yashica Electro 35 series date from 1969 and had an electronic metering system that<br> was second to none at the time and they are a pure joy to use.</p> <p>Rod</p> <p> </p>

<p>I've got one of those. Take it out about once a year and just have fun with it. Everything you<br> say about the Ektar lens being sharp and contrasty is true. From what information I can<br> gather it came to life because of a contract let by the US Air Force. It had to be small, light,<br> able to work in harsh enviroments, easy to operate, and field reparable. Great little camera.</p>

<p>Steven Clark was on the right track. In the film photo the sun is much higher in the sky. You can tell<br> by the shadows cast by the buildings the sun was lower in the sky when the digital photo was taken <br> resulting in better light conditions.</p> <p> </p>

Hi Frank, You have to take the top off. The release button just sits on top of the shutter release rod and just pulls off. I don't know if the button will fit on a 7s but I think it will. Rod

<p>Spotmatics and Takumars go together like a horse and carriage. My apologies, I just couldn't<br> resist. Your choice of film and exposure was perfect for the steam engine photos. Thanks for<br> posting.</p>

<p>The threads for the focusing ring are multiple start threads. You can see this by looking at the<br> focusing threads on the lens body. I think your problem is you are not getting the focusing<br> ring started at the right point in relationship to the threads on the body. By trial and error you<br> will have to start the focusing ring at different points on the lens body until the ring finally fits<br> into place. I have never worked on one of these lenses so maybe someone who has can give<br> us some tips.</p> <p>This can be an extremely frustrating process.</p>

<p>You will have to remove the top cover to get at the adjustments. There is a lever that engages <br> the rangefinder mechanism when the camera is opened. Sometimes this lever will stick due<br> to dirt or dried up lubricants which could cause the rangefinder to operate incorrectly so that<br> would be the first thing to check.</p>

<p>Looks like it is working very well for you. Great photo of the deer. You were lucky to get one that worked.<br> My first one required a complete teardown and cleaning to get it working. They are really fun to use and<br> are great performers. Enjoy.</p> <p>Rod</p>

<p>The meter movement from from a lllc should fit a lllC. On these two models a knob is turned<br> to align a marker with the meter needle and the aperture setting is read from a scale on the<br> knob and then the lens shutter aperture in manually set by the operator.</p> <p>The lllS is a totally different animal. As the lens aperture setting is changed the marker in the<br> meter window moves with it. Once the meter needle and the marker are aligned the aperture<br> is set, thus the need for the string and pulleys.</p>